Leeds Market (Leeds)

I have early childhood memories of visits to Kirkgate Market in the 1980's. One thing that stands out strongly in each memory is a woman who used to sit on the stone steps by the entrance from Vicar Lane (I think she used to own a florist there).

Every Saturday my mother would tuck my brother and I up into our duffle coats and toss us into the back of her mini to go to the market. I would ask the same question excitedly every time. ...
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Looking back there wasn't anything humorous about this woman apart from her hair. I don't think I have encountered another hairstyle quite as dramatic as hers. She must have kept "L'Oreal Elnette" in business throughout the 80's and early 90's, owning a two foot lacquered beehive that would no doubt still be rigid should the whole nation suffer an earthquake of magnitude 8.1 on the Richter scale.

I was in awe of her ... more

I have early childhood memories of visits to Kirkgate Market in the 1980's. One thing that stands out strongly in each memory is a woman who used to sit on the stone steps by the entrance from Vicar Lane (I think she used to own a florist there).

Every Saturday my mother would tuck my brother and I up into our duffle coats and toss us into the back of her mini to go to the market. I would ask the same question excitedly every time. "Are we going to see that funny lady?".

Looking back there wasn't anything humorous about this woman apart from her hair. I don't think I have encountered another hairstyle quite as dramatic as hers. She must have kept "L'Oreal Elnette" in business throughout the 80's and early 90's, owning a two foot lacquered beehive that would no doubt still be rigid should the whole nation suffer an earthquake of magnitude 8.1 on the Richter scale.

I was in awe of her hair. I couldn't understand how she could carry it around everyday, it looked so heavy. She became infamous throughout Leeds. Upon returning to school on Monday morning, tales of weekend adventures were swapped and should it come to light that anyone had visited the market, they were instantly hounded with questions about seeing the woman with the "funny hair". As children we came to the obvious conclusion that she was a witch.

I pass the step she sat on often, although no longer there in person she stirs up memories of times gone by. I sometimes wonder what happened to her. Although the people and the stalls change flowing along with the circle of life, the vibrant atmosphere and housing of "character" will continue to live on in Kirkgate Market I'm sure for many years to come.

KIRKGATE MARKET

Kirkgate Market remains traditional although it continues to move with the times. It's humble beginnings in the 1800's saw it as a base for the start up of the now internationally known Marks and Spencer. After planting its honest working class roots the market has continued to grow culturally without ever leaving the soil it started from.

Housed in its original Edwardian Grade 1 listed building the markets have grown to be a distinctive image and unofficial emblem of Leeds. I have found conflicting information in my research but the Market is either the biggest or the second biggest indoor Market in Europe, as well as being one of the oldest ones in the country. It was first opened in 1822 as an open air market and today sees 100,000 visitors pass through every week to make purchases from the 800 traders.

KIRKGATE MARKET IN 2007

Due to the location of my employer, I currently pass through the market on a daily basis. Sometimes to shop, sometimes to eat, sometimes to browse and occasionally just to sit with a coffee and watch the world go by. I've found browsing to be both enjoyable and inspirational largely because of the atmosphere the market contains. There's something both impersonal and clinical about high street shopping and Kirkgate Market offers a pleasant alternative.

I have noticed in recent years quite a remarkable improvement in the cleanliness of the market. A few years ago it was possible to receive multiple head injuries from skidding on one of the many discarded Banana skins. These days the floors are cleaned regularly and the recent "no smoking" law has eliminated the trails of scattered cigarette butts allowing way for the more natural scents of the market to linger in the now "smoke free" air.

A refurbishment in the 90's saw a fitting of modern toilets and a slight invasion of capitalism hiked the price of a pee up to twenty pence. The introduction of an ATM also brought pensioners into confusion wondering if the Market was being taken over by 21st century robots. Accepting of the recent changes and moving along with the times the shoppers remained loyal and attraction from further a field still continued to flow through the Market.

WHATS ON OFFER?

MEAT & FISH

There is a diverse range of produce available in the Market. Quite predictably there is a both a Meat aisle and a Fish aisle. During quiet periods the Butchers stand wearing bloodied aprons at their doors ready to offer advice on the best cuts and what to do with them. If you prove to be faint hearted it may be wise to miss the Meat aisle as a display of freshly cut Pigs heads may turn your stomach. Special deals are offered from the Butchers and you could easily find yourself gaining biceps and walking away carrying half a Cow for a modest price. Friendly shouts are bellowed from the shop doors gaining attraction from passers by ready to buy meat on impulse depending on the deal. For people with lead stomachs there's also the offering of Tripe.

Live Lobsters wriggle in basins on the Fish aisle alongside freshly caught Squid. Advice aplenty is offered from the Fishmongers who are happy to gut fresh Fish upon request. The mountains of ice cradling the Fish cause quite a chill in the air as you visit this aisle. You're likely to smell the Fish aisle a great while before you actually discover it; it exudes a strong fishy smell for some reason unknown.

FRUIT & VEG

Seasonal Fruit and Vegetables are sold throughout the Market. Towards the end of the day you can usually pick up Fruit and Vegetables at incredibly low prices. More often than not you find the quality of the Fruit is reflected in the price. Three punnets of Strawberries can be purchased for a pound, but you may find the Strawberries have turned to mush before you have managed to get them home. There's also a number of Florists set up in the Market; fresh flowers are a common pull to the market with the prices being very respectable.

GENERAL TRADERS

I'm pretty sure that anything can be picked up from Kirkgate Market. There are numerous Bric-a Brac stalls selling items Del Boy would be proud of, ranging from tacky Lava Lamps to fluorescent coloured Baking Trays in the shape of "Our Sweet Lord". Toy shops sell many cheap plastic items that can be broken easily and cause one to break a toe if trodden on with impact. There's many a haberdashery stall selling Ostrich Feathers and Brass Buttons and for the knitters there are balls and balls of fluffy wool waiting eagerly to be turned into a Diamond patterned Sweater.

Cake Stalls and Jewellery stalls attract the ladies and the teenagers with trackie bottoms tucked in socks hover around the "Smoking Accessories Stall" fondling any item that has a cannabis leaf printed on it.

Women go for their acrylic nails topping up at the Beauty salon and the elderly Yorkshire men can often be found in the Barbers receiving their short back and sides.

Amongst the stream of working class life there are suited Business men talking away on their mobile phones in the search of a rare Polish sausage which more often than not is a search with a successful result.

There is a find for everyone.

SECONDS

There's a large amount of stalls selling "seconds" or "past season" items from high street chains. Obviously as "seconds" the prices are considerably lower. I often shop for branded makeup at a percentage of the cost, and last winter I purchased a pair of River Island boots (RRP £69.99) for £15 simply because they were last seasons.

Traders also sell seconds from supermarkets. As seconds the produce varies from day to day; but you may come across Sainsbury's Cheesecake's, Weight Watchers ready meals, Foxes biscuits and Haagen-Dazs Ice cream at give away prices. My up and down waistline is usually to blame on the 3 for £1 offers of Foxes Biscuits. General household and toiletry items are sold as seconds in many of the stalls and I usually find I make a considerable saving by stocking up on products, that would usually cost twice the price in the high street. I buy many branded personal hygiene products such as moisturiser, hair care and sanitary items and find myself with spare cash to stock up on more Foxes Biscuits. Longer life food products such as sauces and pastas are sold at ridiculously low prices and its often of great benefit to buy these products in bulk.

A BITE TO EAT

The Market has a selection of cafés and fast food outlets. The quality and price varies from trader to trader. There are regular "working class" café's offering traditional foods ranging from a full English Breakfast to Liver and Onions. There are high street bakeries such as Greggs and Ainsleys (Ainsleys sells rejected pasties at a lower price) and modern Delicatessens where you can purchase Sandwiches with off the bone meat. In recent years there have been continental additions, bringing in Italian and Polish Delicatessen's, a traditional Greek takeaway, Chinese Noodle bars and Caribbean fruit and vegetable stalls.

OUTDOOR STALLS

The trading in the outdoor market differs from day to day. On Thursdays second hand stalls are set up in the outdoor market (Flea Market). You could possibly discover anything on these stalls. Antique jewellery, old fashioned record players, second hand wedding dresses, well fingered guitars; the variety is endless. You're likely to stumble over suitcases full of books that still have bits of the attic attached to them and on a hot day you'll no doubt be tempted to giving in and buying a 99 from Mr Whippy.

Second hand CD's and DVD's can be found at bargain prices, and with the phasing out of videos these can also be picked up very cheaply. There's a large second hand book stall in the outdoor market that also allows you to return Books to get part of the original price back.

There are often stalls with a mountain of second hand clothes, some of which regularly end up on the floor. By partaking in some good old rummaging you can usually discover a pleasant surprise or two.

IN SHORT

Kirkgate Market is a home to honest working class life. Some people maybe scared to indulge due to the Chav majority that exists in the market place, however, I would encourage you to dip your toe in and experience some of this pleasant atmosphere whilst discovering a bargain or two, after all Chav's have hearts too.

Kirkgate Markets, Vicar Lane, Leeds
Open 6 days a week Monday to Saturday 9am-6pm (half days Wednesdays)
Market Information Office 0113 2145162 

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