Les Loges, Lyon

This hotel restaurant originated with lofty ambitions, a celebrity chef, and a flurry of promotion. In 2003 it dropped the pretense and gradually evolved into a desirable -- albeit not particularly cutting-edge -- dining room. The flavorful food is beautifully prepared and served in generous portions -- well-executed fare that you'd expect from a top-notch steakhouse or hotel dining room. Surrounded by Renaissance-era stone walls, wrought iron, and ornate crystal chandeliers, you may begin with foie gras, marinated salmon, or crabmeat cocktail with guacamole. Continue with grilled lamb, beef, veal, or pork, served with virtually any sauce you specify, or roasted quail in a succulent mixture of herbs and its own juices.