It’s nearly November 5th, Guy Fawkes’ night. For Lewes it is Bonfire Night.
Lewes is the county town of East Sussex, a small market town nestled in the shadow of the South Downs. It could well fit your image of a quiet well-healed liberal country town, with its fair share of eccentrics – unless of course you have experienced the Lewes Bonfire night.
Lewes Bonfire isn’t any old Guy Fawkes Night; it is the loudest craziest one you may ever experience.
To give a little background, it might help if I start at the beginning.
The 1550’s were a time of religious intolerance in England, as Queen Mary I demonstrated by burning 288 Protestants at the Stake. Lewes didn’t escape her
attention and 17 people (or martyrs as they are now referred to) were burnt at the stake.
This event coupled with Guy Fawkes’ attempt to re-establish Catholic rule with his 1605 Gunpowder Plot ensured that the martyrs are now commemorated every year on November 5th. There was a resurgence of anti-Catholic sentiment in the 1800’s, when the Pope Pius IX restored the Catholic hierarchy in England, and in the following years there were strong anti-Catholic and anti-police sentiments.
This background is I think essential to gain some understanding of why the event is such a spectacle. It is important to stress however, that today there is no sense of any sectarian hatred or intolerance, and the only hints of former rancour are banners reading ‘no popery’ over Cliffe High Street and the burning of Pope Paul V’s (Pope in 1605) effigy at one of the society bonfires.
On the 5th November the town cuts itself off by closing roads in late afternoon, and locals start filling up pubs, balconies and any decent viewing space they can find. The crowd rapidly fills as trains arrive from the Brighton, Eastbourne and London lines.
The event usually starts at about 7.30pm. I have been a few times, never arriving early and have been swept up Station Road to the high street where the procession is already in full swing. The societies come round more than once so nothing is missed.
When you reach the high street you are come across a heaving crowd, loud music and colourfully dressed people, of both sexes and all ages, holding fire-lit torches streaming past. It can seem chaotic. It si difficult to move through the crowd and it is best to find a good spot as near to where you join the High Street as possible. It is also very difficult, if not impossible, to get into the pubs near the parade and it may be more relaxing to just enjoy the show.
There are five Lewes societies (Borough, Cliffe, Commercial Square, South Street and Waterloo) that lead the parades that have associated nearby societies following them. They are dressed in traditional costumes (some may say fancy dress) that have included among others Red Indians, Mogul Warriors, Zulu’s and Vikings (I am not sure whether they stay the same each year). Following their Standard bearer and the society band, they parade the effigy (the enemy of the Bonfire) they will later burn on one of their (five) bonfires. Victims over the years have included Margaret Thatcher, George Bush II and Osama Bin Laden – anyone who has caused minor or major offence during the previous year.
Eventually the parades finish and the processions wind off towards their bonfire. I have been three bonfire sites: Waterloo’s – which is well supported and often has an excellent fireworks display; Cliffe (which has moved from its rather cramped site since I last went to their bonfire) is also well supported and is the only one to charge an entrance fee. If you would be offended by the burning of Pope Paul V, it is perhaps best avoided. Lastly the Borough, high up on the downs, where on a cold night you can (and I have) freeze. You do however also get to see everyone else’s firework displays. And the fireworks are impressive.
To find a bonfire just follow the crowds or ask and you won’t get lost. If you do get to go, you will experience what is a unique unforgettable evening, but there are certain considerations.
The town (with a population of less than 20,000) can attract up to 80,000 people – it is said to be the country’s biggest. It does get very crowded, and over recent years serious attempts have been made to reduce the number of incomers. It is not suitable for small children as they may be difficult to keep an eye on and possibly frightened.
If you do go (not all of Ciao at once!) – the last train usually leaves Lewes around midnight. Have fun.
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