Lisbon (Portugal)

Lisbon or Lisboa is the capital of Portugal and enjoys a marvellous position. To the northeast of the city the River Tagus opens out to form the shining Mar de Palha (sea of straw). The city stands on the northwest bank of this lake just before it narrows and flows out into the Atlantic Ocean. For miles and miles, homes, factories, warehouses and port installations carpet the steep hills and valleys along the estuary. Lisbon is sometimes called the ...
...harbour towns in the world. Lisbon has many miradouros (lookout points) that provide panoramic views over the river Tagus and the city. A tour of the city on foot will also reveal many otherwise hidden sights. Just a few yards from the roar of city traffic, steep flights of steps disappear into sleepy corners where caged birds sing. Idyllic parks with exotic plants and peaceful fountains are a refuge from the hectic hurly-burly of the frenetic city ... more

Lisbon or Lisboa is the capital of Portugal and enjoys a marvellous position. To the northeast of the city the River Tagus opens out to form the shining Mar de Palha (sea of straw). The city stands on the northwest bank of this lake just before it narrows and flows out into the Atlantic Ocean. For miles and miles, homes, factories, warehouses and port installations carpet the steep hills and valleys along the estuary. Lisbon is sometimes called the Cidade Branca, the White City but actually its colour is really a matt pastel shade. The best view of the city can be enjoyed from one of the many excellent fish restaurants in Cacilhas on the south bank of the river. Between Alfama (see my review), the labyrinth of narrow alleys on the citadel hill, and the elevated Bairro Alto, lies the flat plain of the city centre, the Cidade Baixa, with its geometrical street plan. Leading down to the Baixa is the wide tree-lined Avenida da Liberdade. Old trams, known as, electricos, wind their noisy way along the inclines of the narrow streets. Funicular railways or elevadores and an unusual lift with an elaborate Gothic exterior negotiate the steep inclines of one of the hilliest harbour towns in the world. Lisbon has many miradouros (lookout points) that provide panoramic views over the river Tagus and the city. A tour of the city on foot will also reveal many otherwise hidden sights. Just a few yards from the roar of city traffic, steep flights of steps disappear into sleepy corners where caged birds sing. Idyllic parks with exotic plants and peaceful fountains are a refuge from the hectic hurly-burly of the frenetic city streets.

Between the huge, postmodern towers of the Amoreiras shopping centre, towering symbols of Lisbon's share in the prosperity of modern Europe, and the tiny buildings with doll's house facades in the old town, there are examples - small and large - of many different styles of architecture. Lisbon has resisted the melancholic decadence and progress of the late 20th century.

That's my romantic overview of the city now I will introduce you to some of the more interesting attractions in Lisbon. It is always difficult to write a review of a city as magical and diverse as Lisbon and to try and mention every attraction and sight. I have already written reviews of the Alfama and Belem so these areas will not be mentioned in this visual tour.

The best way to see the city is by foot. With many steep inclines and smooth limestone cobbles underfoot it is adviseable to wear a good pair of shoes. The city is hilly but I always find it a very easy to navigate as long as you have your wits about you crossing roads. Lisboan drivers are manic and the best advice I can give when crossing the road is to go with the flow. Don't hesitate - once the lights are on green - get your running shoes on and walk as fast as you can. City maps can be misleading, as the steep hills create a false impression of the distances involved. However, you may find it more rewarding simply to go with the crowd and observe the many-sided mosaic of Lisbon life in a haphazard way, rather than rush from one attraction to the next. All senses will be required to appreciate the busy street life with its confusing variety of shops, bars, sounds and smells.

The Cafe Scene
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In my view, a good starting point to tour the city is the Rossio. This is a large square surrounded by cafe tables and is the heart of Lisbon. Heretics were burnt at the stake here and it was also a venue for bullfights. In the middle of the traffic free island stands two fountains and a statue of Dom Pedro 1V, hence its official name Praca de Dom Pedro 1V. Around the edge of the square are a number of celebrated cafes which are quite grandiose in design. The Cafe Nicola is a beautiful Art Deco cafe with a genuine 1930's exterior and the decor inside is filled with gems like Art Deco lamps, chairs, crockery, teapots and the like. This is an ideal place to sit and observe the multi-ethnic nature of modern Lisbon. Indian, African and Asiatic features in the faces of the passers by reflect Portugal's maritime history and status as a colonial power. The Pastelaria Suica is another magical cafe in the square and one I recommend. Not only do they serve a great coffee, it is an ambient place where you can sit, read and breathe in the cosmopolitan atmosphere in luxury. Next to the Cafe Nicola is the tiny Tabacaria Monaco and this is really worth a peek. This tobacconist and newspaper stand retains the original 1894 furnishings. There are a lot of these old Tabacarias' dotted around the city - part of the city's charm. This one is the most beautiful. Portugal's national theatre, the Classical Teatro Nacional Dona Maria II, stands on the north side of the Rossio and occupies the site of the former Palace of Inquisition. The decorative mosaics are very interesting to look at. They are pieced together from white limestone and black basalt that can be seen on the pavements and squares in the city centre and are work of former convicts.

The Commercial Centre
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After the earthquake of 1755, the Marques de Pombal who was one of Portugal's able statesmen set in motion a rapid and well planned reconstruction of the city. One of his lasting legacies is the Cidade Baixa. This orderly street plan stands in stark contrast to the rest of the city centre where narrow streets wind and merge with no particular pattern. There is no other part of the old town where the right angle is so dominant. Pombal left no room for palaces and churches. The buildings were intended as town houses for the middle classes and as outlets for traders such as jewellers and leather suppliers. The street names testify to the districts past. Rua dos Sapateiros near the Rossio was the street of shoemakers.' Lisbon's first cinema was established here and in 1907 was called The Animatografo do Rossio. Beautiful building to look at with its flourishes of art Nouveau facade. Pombal's houses were built with cage-like timber framework capable of withstanding any future earthquake, and, if a similar disaster occurs again, they will fare better than the modern storey blocks which have been designed without any consideration given to the possibility of earthquakes.

Rua Augusta is now a pedestranised zone and some of the houses haven't changed snce the time of Pombal. Parallel to this street runs the streets for the gold and silversmiths, Rua do Ouro and Rua da Prata. If you love nostalgia as I do then this area is a real old walk down memory lane. Not only are there old silver and gold shops but a genuine grocer's store that dates back from the middle of the 19th century. A street that runs at right angles to Rua Augusta is the Rua Santa Justa and at the end of the street stands the amazing neo-Gothic tower for the Elevador de Santa Justa. This is an awesome lift and is so ornate. It was built in 1902 and overcomes a difference in height of about 32 metres. From the top of the lift, a spiral staircase takes you further up to a viewing platform, and a small cafe restaurant with marvellous views over the city and the river. The lift links the low lying Baixa with the Carmo district. The Baixa is largely a financial and commercial district and it has remained dedicated to meeting the needs of merchants and traders. I find it a fascinating area and it is always pleasing to see that nothing much has changed architecturally since the early 19th century.

The southern end of Rua Agusta finishes with a triumphal arch that opens on to Praca do Comercio. This square is surrounded by arcades on three sides. In the days before the earthquake Manuel I's royal palace was located here and this square is still sometimes referred to as the Palace Square (Terreiro do Paco). In the middle stands a Baroque equestrian statue of the reform minded King Jose 1, who gave Pombal a free hand to rebuild the city after the earthquake. For a long time the square was used as a car park but now once again it is a delightful open space, as well as the starting point for many tram routes.

Lisbon's Famous Avenue
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In most cities there is always a famous avenue or boulevard and Lisbon's famous one is Avenida da Liberdade. It is known as Lisbon's Champs Elysees and is 1.5km long and 100 metres wide. An interesting avenue that has changed drastically over the years. It starts at the northwest corner of the Rossio by the Rossio station with its Moorish/Manueline facade. Trains from here serve Sintra and intermediate suburbs. At the end of the boulevard lies a square of restaurants and Lisbon's main tourist office which is situated in the pink washed Palacio Foz. You can't miss this building - it stands out like a stick of candy floss. Bookings from everything from bullfights to cinema tickets are sold at a small kiosk nearby. Some of the cinema halls are very attractive and appealing as some of them date back from the 1930's and have been protected. The three main ones are Eden on the west side of the square, the Odeon and the 1913 Politeama, on the east side.

The start of the work on Avenida da Liberdade in 1879 was the first stage of a large scale extension of the city, but unfortunately building development in recent years has resulted in the demolition of rows of fine houses built at the turn of the 20th century and the construction of faceless squares that could be anywhere in the world. Banks, offices and fashion houses now occupy these prime sites rather than fine blocks of flats and houses. When I worked in Lisbon this was the main street I walked up every day. I used to stroll up the Avenida as far as Praca Marques de Pombal which is a junction and often referred to as a Rotunda. This is the Portuguese word for roundabout and it is famous because of the huge statue of Pombal on horseback. Many important thoroughfares meet here. I used to work on the hill to the north of the rotunda close to the Parque Eduardo VII. Some of Lisbon's top hotels are to be found on the western edge while the terrace at the upper end serves as a lookout point with a unique view over the Avenida da Liberdade and the river. Just below lies Estufa Fria, a 'cold greenhouse' in an old quarry where tropical plants thrive amid ponds and running water.

Food, Fado and Literary Areas
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Two other areas of the city which I find very interesting are the Chiado and the Bairro Alto.The Chiado is the literary quarter and it can be reached by the decent from the Largo do Carmo. Just be careful you don't get showered with water from the baroque fountains and attacked by the flocks of pigeons as you walk from Carmo to the Chiado. Monuments and streets here are dedicated to Portuguese poets and writers. Old fashioned cafes such as A Brasileria and Pastelaria Bernard in Rua Garrett, antique shops and antiquarian booksellers such as Livraria Bernard (opened in 1732), Sao Carlos Opera House and other theatres help to create an artistic atmosphere. The district has been given a cultural boost by the opening of a museum dedicated to the area. The museum situated on Rua Serpa Pinto is architecturally interesting and houses Portuguese art from the late 19th century to the present day. Chiado is also a busy shopping area and a stroll past the shop windows will reveal exquisitely elegant interiors with ornamental plasterwork, paintings and mirrored glass cabinets.

A number of bars and cafes in the vicinity will provide not only welcome refreshment but another glimpse into Lisbon's past. Cervajaria da Trindade is a traditional beer hall housed in an old monastery with some fine 19th century hand painted wall tiles.

The Alfama is the oldest area of Lisbon and one of my favourites for atmosphere and character but there is another area that is nearly as atmospheric and that is the Bairro Alto. This area was planned as a residential area in the 16th century and is the second oldest part of the city. It's Rua da Rosa is the main thoroughfare and the quarter to the east is lively with small shops and simple bars known as tascas. Above, the crumbling plaster is masked by washing blowing in the breeze, while flowerpots and bird cages adorn the balconies.

The Bairro Alto is an important centre for Lisbon's nightlife. Restaurants, bars, lively discos and fado bars keep both locals and tourists entertained. A variety of snackbars here are kept particularly busy at lunchtime serving the pratos de dia, a low price dish of the day, usually something with fava beans. Pap'Acorda is very popular and you can find this restaurant on Rua da Atalaia, No 57-9. This is a large family restaurant and has an imaginative chef. My advice is to reserve a table - well, it is essential as otherwise there will be no room at the inn.

Before I say farewell I would just like to mention another quarter called Lapa. You can take the No 28 tram in the direction of Estrela and Prazeres. The tram can be caught in the Baixa or in the Largo Chiado from where it curves past the Bento Palace which is the seat of the National Assembly. Lapa is the residential district beneath the Basilica da Estrela. It was originally inhabited by African slaves but wealthy English families appreciated the fine view over the river and built grand villas here. The Portuguese aristocracy followed, but the district is now favoured by foreign embassies and the wealthy. This is a quarter to admire the fine houses, some of which are from the 18th century and if you look behind the high walls you will see an assortment of beautiful gardens hidden away.

ART
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Opposite a baroque fountain on Rua das Janelas Verdes (the street with green windows) is situated The Museum of National Antique Art and the most important museum in Lisbon after the Gulbenkian Museum. Many of the finest exhibits here are Portuguese paintings of the 15th and 16th centuries that were influenced by the great Flemish artists, but the highlight is undoubtedly the polptych from St Vincent's altar. Painted in about 1480 by Nuno Goncalves, it shows Henry the Navigator and his contemporaries. Hieronymos Bosch's triptych of The Temptation of St Anthony is another of the museums masterpieces and one I truly love having studied Bosch at Art college.

The street with the green windows was for many centuries the main road to Belem (see my review), as the River Tagus came right to the foot of the hill. The whole area by the riverbank was cleared in the 19th century to make way for road, railway and port installations.The 15 and 17 trams still follow the old route to Belem and is an interesting trip. You can catch the tram from Praca do Comercio.

I can't really finish without mentioning one of the most famous and popular art museums in Lisbon. In case I never get round to writing a full review on the museum here is a brief summary. The Museum Calouste Gulbenkian is located on Avenida da Berna 45. When the Armenian oil magnate died in 1955, he bequeathed the estate to the Portuguese people, partly out of gratitude to the government, which granted him asylum during World War II. Apart from the top class works of European art ranging from Gothic to Impressionist, the museum also displays French furniture, wall hangings, tableware and Art Nouveau jewellery by Rene lalique and has a section devoted to far Eastern and Islamic pottery and textiles.

On the other side of the gardens there is a Museum of Modern Art which displays the work of 20th century Portuguese artists and contemporary English art. Both museums are worth visiting and they are open every day except Monday. Check times as they can be changeable but you can always assume that they won't open until after 10am and sometimes after 2pm.

Apologies for the length of this article. I always think of Lisbon as being a small city but seeing that I have written three reviews covering it, it obviously isn't. What can I say - I love the place. Sometimes it can be frustrating especially in September and October when it is conference season and the Avenida da Liberdade is buzzing and you take your life in your hands when crossing the road. When Portugal are playing in an International football contest the atmosphere around the rotunda here is like nowhere else I have ever seen especially if they are winning. Flags are flying high, horns blowing, people in the nearby park, dancing in the fountains. An amazing atmosphere. Four words to sum up Lisbon town - Historic, Modern, Vibrant and Magical. One of Europe's finest cities.

Summary: My Favourite City in Europe

* First posted on Dooyoo*

Can't get my photos to load at the moment - will try again later. 

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