Liverpool Cathedral

...me on a journey through Liverpool cathedral, I have to introduce one important caveat. I am not religious and I know very little about religion, churches and cathedrals. I rarely frequent religious establishments, not because I dislike them, but purely because I feel like I do not belong in them, like I should not be visiting them if I do not understand much about Christianity and have not officially joined any one religion. It is for this reason ...
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***Drawn to Liverpool Cathedral***

I was in Liverpool on a business trip and my assignment finished much earlier than expected. I decided to look for a place to have lunch, which is always a difficult undertaking in Liverpool when you are not keen on pub lunch. I traversed the city centre when I spotted something that, to my untrained and ignorant eyes, looked like a castle. Did Liverpool have a castle? I stopped of for ... more

Before I take you along with me on a journey through Liverpool cathedral, I have to introduce one important caveat. I am not religious and I know very little about religion, churches and cathedrals. I rarely frequent religious establishments, not because I dislike them, but purely because I feel like I do not belong in them, like I should not be visiting them if I do not understand much about Christianity and have not officially joined any one religion. It is for this reason that I am a little intimidated to review Liverpool Cathedral, a place that John Betjeman rightly termed "One of the great buildings of the world."

***Drawn to Liverpool Cathedral***

I was in Liverpool on a business trip and my assignment finished much earlier than expected. I decided to look for a place to have lunch, which is always a difficult undertaking in Liverpool when you are not keen on pub lunch. I traversed the city centre when I spotted something that, to my untrained and ignorant eyes, looked like a castle. Did Liverpool have a castle? I stopped of for lunch and decided to take a look after I had replenished my energy.

When I reached the "tower" that I thought to be a castle, I actually discovered that it was pretty, bombed-out church. But as I looked further upwards and ahead, I saw another massive tower lurking over the city - and curiosity drew me closer and closer.

As I came closer to the building, I realised that it was in fact one massive Cathedral - and from the outside it was the most impressive Cathedral I had ever seen. It was built of massive dark red brick - and it looked very threatening with its huge presence. Above the door to my right-hand side, a massive statue of Christ added to me feeling like a small, insignificant creature next to the super-structure. I stood in front of the building for a little while, starring at the steps and the large wooden arched door in front of me. The place looked abandoned and closed to me - and I was too shy to actually attempt to enter the monstrum that lay before me.

Instead, I decided to circulate the building clockwise. I could not help stare upwards at the walls in complete and utter awe - again, it was more the size than its intricate masonry detail or material that caused my mouth to drop wide open in wonder. As you walk around the Cathedral, just in front of the refectory, you will see various stones engraved with people's names - I strongly suspect these are the graves of various members of the Diocese of Liverpool that significantly contributed towards Liverpool Cathedral during their life time.

I returned to the front of the Cathedral and I was about to head back to the city centre and to return back home when I suddenly decided that I would see whether I could see the Cathedral from the inside. I climbed the steps to the Cathedral door and spotted that there was indeed an entrance on the lefthand side. I slowly opened the door and looked into the dark. As I walked in, I was even more in awe at the sheer size of the building - the vaults and arches above me extended to such a vast indoor height that I never even experience in some of the largest concert venues in the world.

As I entered, I was faced with a donation box, asking visitors to give at least £3.00 (or 4 Euros or 5US$), as donations are vital to maintain the building.

I dropped my donation in the box and started to enter deeper into the Cathedral, when I was stopped by a lovely lady who asked me whether she could be of assistance. I explained that I simply wanted to have a look around. She was very welcoming and pointing towards a vast array of leaflets in almost all of this world's languages, asked me whether I wanted any information on the Cathedral and what language I wanted the information to be in. I took one of the English leaflets and was on my way. And this is what I learned:

***The history of Liverpool Cathedral***

Liverpool Cathedral is 102 years old. In 1901, the decision to build a cathedral for the Diocese of Liverpool was made. A number of architects tendered for the contract to build this cathedral. Giles Gilbert Scott won the competition to be the architect. In 1904, King Edward VII laid the foundation stone to the cathedral. What followed were years of building and it was only in 1910 that the Lady Chapel was completed and accessible for worship.

In 1924, the High Altar, Chancel and the Eastern Transcepts were consecrated, forming the first section of the main Cathedral. Giles Gilbert Scott then changed his mind about his original design. He abandoned plans to build two towers and instead decided to build one larger tower over a wide central space. This second phase of building was completed by 1941 when the Cathedral under the tower was used for the very first time.

Building works continued during the Second World War (1939-1945), however, it was significantly slowed down. Although many of the buildings in Liverpool were severely damaged by bombs, the Cathedral stood firm and hardly experienced very little damage. In fact, one bomb penetrated the roof space, but was deflected and exploded in the street outside. The only damage was caused to the windows on the riverside of the building.

The building was finally completed in 1978, when the dedication of the West end of the Cathedral took place in the presence of Queen Elizabeth II. The Cathedral continued to evolve post-completion, with various furnishings added.

The Cathedral is a massive 169 feet (189 m) long spanning across an area of 104,275 square feet (9688 square metres). The tower is 331 feet (101 metres) tall. At 219 feet (67 metres) bells in the tower are the high

***A tour of the Cathedral***

I first entered into the central space and choir area, which in itself does not have much to offer other than four rather impressive paintings of the Parables, which were donated to Liverpool Cathedral by the Jerusalem Trust in 1996. A couple of the paintings have been hung in such a way that they simply glow and are given an almost life-like feeling. Continuing straight ahead, towards the back of the Cathedral, is the Impressive High Altar.

Walking up the steps and passed the prayer benches to either side of the High Altar, pausing to admire some more of the impressive Parable paintings, you can choose to take the exit to your right to reach the Lady Chapel, located in the south east corner of the Cathedral, where the most impressive feature is none other than a statue of the Virgin Mary, created by 16th century sculptor Giovanni della Robbia and donated to the Cathedral in 1929. There are also portrait windows of the Noble Women on the West wall of the Lady Chapel, showing women such as Grace Darling, Elizabeth Fry and Elizabeth Barrett Browning.

The Lady Chapel has its own organ and is used regularly for morning services, weddings and funerals that are held at the Cathedral from time to time. It is the darkest and most gloomy place within the whole Cathedral, but it also has a distinct air of tranquility, which I suppose is very inviting to reflect upon life and to say a few prayers.

In the far northeast corner of the Cathedral, there lies Chapter House. Far less impressive than the Lady Chapel, its most interesting attraction is a painting called "Calvary". Painted in 1998, it is a modern painting of Christ's crucifixion. Against a purple and dark background, the painting depicts the silhouette of Christ on the cross. Looking closely, you can make out the image of a dog, looking up at Christ. The whole image conveys a feeling of loneliness and desertion, which no doubt Christ must have experienced at that very moment.

Other than the War Memorial Chapel, exhibiting a statue reminding us fiercely of the two World Wars, visitors can opt to visit the Nave Triforium, which contains the Embroidery Gallery and is accessible via the lift to the tower. I did not have the pleasure to visit these facilities, which apparently exhibit a collection of Victorian and Edwardian ecclesiastical embroidery and apparently also offer breathtaking views into the Cathedral. Access to the tower and the Embroidery Gallery is not free - adults pay £4.25 for the privilege to access the tower and concession tickets are available at £2.50. To reach the top, visitors take two consecutive lifts and walk 108 steps - but the journey is well worth the magnificent views over Liverpool and the Cathedral that are available from the various levels. On a good day, from the very top, you can have a view reaching as far as Blackpool Tower and the Welsh Hills. You will simply regret leaving your camera at home.

On the way out of the Cathedral, a stop by the Book & Gift Shop may well be worth your while. The shop offers a selection of books (both religious and non-religious in nature, for example children's books) souvenirs (such as key chains, pencils and chocolates), records, cards, pictures and church and clerical equipment.

And for those who feel the urge to refresh themselves, the refectory offers late breakfast, morning coffee with scones and cakes, home prepared lunch and afternoon tea.

***Time to say good-bye***

On my way out, I could not help but stop to talk to the lovely lady who had presented me with information on Liverpool Cathedral on the way in. I told her that I had come here by pure coincidence and that I was glad I had made the trip. She was happy to hear my positive comments and asked me whether I would like to sign the guestbook. I took the pain from her to write down my name and comment when I spotted some of the names of people who had visited before me. They were from all over the world. New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, the United States - simply an international collection of individuals.

"You get visitors from all over the world here!" I exclaimed.
"Oh, yes, we do. Last week we had 100 youths from Jutland visiting us."
"It is an impressive building", I said.
To which she replied: "There is only one word to describe it. Awesome."

I fully agree.

***Further information***

«Traveling to Liverpool Cathedral«

*By rail and on foot*

The nearest station is Liverpool Lime Street. Follow the sign-postings to "Cathedrals". It is about a 20 minute walk in total - 15 minutes up Renshaw Street. Walk up Mount Pleasant Street, then turn right into Hope Street from where you will be able to spot the Cathedral and find it easily. The entrance to the Cathedral is on Upper Duke Street.

*By bus*

If you do not fancy walking, catch a bus from Paraside Bus Depot in the City Centre. You can take bus routes 20, 32(a), 82(a-c), 83 or 182 and alight at Great George Street and then transfer to Smart Bus 4, which will take you straight to Upper Duke Street.

*By car*

From the M6, leave at Junction 21A and take M62 (East) for Liverpool. Once you reach the City Centre, follow the signs to "Cathedral". Access from Chesire and Birkenhead is via the tunnels, which cost £1.20 each way.

There is car parking available at the Cathedral for a charge of £1.

«Tours«

Tours of the Cathedral are available free of charge during the day from 10am - 4pm Monday to Friday and from 10am - 1.30pm on Saturday. Evening tours are available on request. No Sunday tours are available. For booking information visit:

http://www.liverpoolcathedral.org.uk/visitors/contact.asp

«Opening times«

The main Cathedral is open daily from 8 am to 6 pm.

The Cathedral tower is normally open during these times, but may be closed due to bad weather. It is also closed Good Friday, December 24-26, plus occasional days for major cathedral services/events & New Years Day.

«Website«

www.liverpoolcathedral.org.uk

 

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