Yes, it's touristy as hell! Yes, accommodation is getting expensive by Laotion standards. But don't let that put you off!
For a start, there is a budget quarter of the city located down a series of extremely charming alleyways run by Lao families. It has bucket loads of character and the guesthouses here are legendary for there warm friendly welcomes and smiles. So that solves the problem of expensive accommodation prices! It's about 7-10$ or a decent single room. I have to recommend you stay at Oudomphone Guesthouse, as this is undoubtedly the best guesthouse in South-East Asia possibly the world! It was one of the first guesthouses to open up in the budget district and has set the bench mark for all the other guetshouses. It is run by the sweetest family you'll ever meet and has bonuses like free bananas, tea and coffee as well as buffets for Christmas and New Year's Eve! If it's your brithday they'll probably surprise you with a birthday cake and throw you a party!
So what makes Luang Prabang special? Well for a start it's the location, it's situated in a lush green valley surrounded by green rolling mountains and hills and the Mekong and flows through it. There are small beaches on the river side and the town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After spending 10 minutes there it's easy to see why; The town is a wonderful mix of east meets west and the past meets the present; Old French buildings share the streets with beautiful Buddhist temples, French and Italian resturants are next door to traditional Lao resturants and Ice cream parlours.
There are orange clad monks everywhere as this is also a spiritual centre for the Lao people. The monks often approach tourists to chat to them about there life in Lao and to practice there English!
Everyone is extremely friendly, there are smiles everywhere you look. There is just something about LP that insantly brings a smile to your face. You will probably extend your stay.
Other than the temples, fanastic little resturants and bars, the surrounding area is dotted with beautiful waterfalls and villages that are only an hour away by tuk tuk. Treks can be arranged from one of the many travel agencies in town to hill tribe villages and there is opportunity for Kiyaking trips and elephant riding.
Shopaholics will adore the night market that opens at sunset every evening until about 10pm, full of wonderful art, crafts, jewellery, clothes and just about everything inbetween!
Wat Phnom is a fantastic place to climb for a sunset view though it gets crowded in high season. Get there early!
The best bars are on the opposite side Wat Phnom, and there is even a bowling alley that is the only place that stays open late out of town that serves drinks.
The cheap resturants by the Mekong sell amazing currys.
Or you can just enjoy the atmosphere whilst strollling endlessly around the streets under the palm trees...This is probably the friendliest and most beautiful city on the planet.
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