I have visited Madeira twice now, once on a family holiday with my parents and 10 -year old brother, and once on a romantic break with my boyfriend. Madeira fitted the bill perfectly for both trips. It is widely said that Madeira is not suitable for a family holiday, but I would have to disagree. Although there are no golden sandy beaches, there are plenty more activities for families, such as the volcanic rock pools for swimming. In any case, there are plenty of day cruises to the nearby island of Porto Santo, where there are beaches galore!
As Madeira is basically a large (approximately 20 by 30 miles) mountain of volcanic rock rising out of the Atlantic, everything is built on steep hills. The architecture of the roads really is amazing; the motorways are built on ridiculously tall concrete pillars, as is the airport runway. All the scenery in Madeira is really spectacular. I would recommend certain trips out in particular for those interested in the scenery. The plateau in the centre of the island is well worth a visit – it’s the only flat area! To the West is an area with the highest cliff face in the world, and the levada walks along the rivers are all beautiful in their own right. Be warned, however, that a lot of the walks are very physically taxing. Madeira’s climate means that a huge range of plants are able to thrive, and these are displayed in some of the best gardens that I have seen anywhere! Some, however, are better than others, so it’s a good idea to research which one you plan to visit first.
The roads around the capital, Funchal and the South of the Island in general are all very good quality, a large proportion of which run through seemingly never-ending tunnels. However, once you head towards the North, the roads are all windy, steep and narrow and driving along them is not for the faint-hearted! I also found it very easy to get lost and seemed to spend a lot of time driving in circles! You would be well advised to plan your route first, and be warned that due to the nature of the roads, a mile would take double the time you would expect! The huge array of waterfalls and the flowers and trees adorning the cliffs alongside all the roads make it worthwhile, however. If you don't want to hire a car (which are very reasonably priced in general), the bus routes into Funchal tend to be fairly regular and cheap. Taxis are plentiful and are cheaper than in the UK, although I would not recommend using them for all your travelling.
In general, the people of Madeira are hospitable, but some of the smaller villages are clearly not designed for tourists and can seem unwelcoming.
I stayed in the four-star Hotel Oasis Atlantic in Canico on my first trip, and was so impressed, I returned to exactly the same place on my second visit. For such an excellent hotel, I found it to be quite a reasonable price. Canico is a quiet town on the Eastern side of the Island, but can be divided into two sections; the town with church and shopping centre at the top of the (very long and steep) hill, and the tourist area comprising a number of hotels, bars and restaurants on the seafront at the bottom. Canico is a 15 minute drive into the capital of Madeira.
Funchal is a thriving city, with a vibrant shopping centre combined with ancient cobbled streets. From Funchal, you can catch a cable car (not for those afraid of heights!) up the mountainside and into the clouds to a place called Monte, where some absolutely gorgeous gardens are situated. The views down to Funchal and the sea are truly breath-taking. A traditional toboggan ride, unique to Madeira will take you back down the mountainside if you like something a bit different! This wasn’t what I expected it to be, however, and is, in my opinion, a little overpriced. The toboggan also does not take you straight back to Funchal, and most people seem to get a taxi back into the centre.
The best hotels are also situated in Funchal, including the Savoy, and Reid’s Palace. I highly recommend afternoon tea at Reid’s palace, the views from the balcony are fantastic! You do have to book, however, but most hotels will do this for you, if asked. I know that this activity is regarded as a little snobbish, and this is true to a certain extent, but it’s still definitely worth a visit. It was 22 euros a head in April 2005.
All the hotels I came across in Madeira were of an extremely high standard, so there is really no need to worry about whether your accommodation will be satisfactory or not!
The food was also excellent on the whole. Although there are a number of local specialties, which may not be to your taste, all tastes are well catered for, and there are a wide range of restaurants. The cost of a meal is probably very slightly than your average meal out in England.
Overall, I have found my time in Madeira to be, more than anything else, relaxing and laid-back. The weather is generally excellent, and I can’t think of anywhere else I would rather be for the views and background scenery. Madeira is great for couples, and families who want a quiet holiday in the sun, but not for those looking for a more lively time, as there is no real night-life to speak of, with the exception of a few casinos and some relaxed entertainment in the hotels. I would recommend Madeira, and in particular the Hotel Oasis Atlantic, to anyone looking for a calming, stress-free break.