Madrid (Spain)

...who plan a trip to Madrid like to combine it with some excursions in the surrounding area. Nearby Toledo and Salamanca, for example, are places that most of us may have heard of, if only from an Ernest Hemingway novel or from Cervantes' famous account of Don Quixote de La Mancha. But this wouldn't be worth an FTC review, had I not some more exclusive places to tell you about.

On the third day at the latest, every first time visitor ...
...very popular day trips for Madrid tourists:

1. To the cities of Salamanca and Avila in the province of Castilia Leon, 70 and 100 miles west of Madrid respectively.

2. To the city of Toledo in the province of Castilia - La Mancha, 50 miles south of Madrid.

BUT: while all these places are beautiful and worth a visit, they are also flocked by tourists from March to October.

Thus I have chosen ... more

Many tourists who plan a trip to Madrid like to combine it with some excursions in the surrounding area. Nearby Toledo and Salamanca, for example, are places that most of us may have heard of, if only from an Ernest Hemingway novel or from Cervantes' famous account of Don Quixote de La Mancha. But this wouldn't be worth an FTC review, had I not some more exclusive places to tell you about.

On the third day at the latest, every first time visitor to Madrid will feel worn out from the dry climate in the Spanish capital. At an air humidity often below 30%, one longs for some fresh air and nature. The Province of Madrid, as well as surrounding Castilia is full of attractions worth a day trip.

So where to go? There are two very popular day trips for Madrid tourists:

1. To the cities of Salamanca and Avila in the province of Castilia Leon, 70 and 100 miles west of Madrid respectively.

2. To the city of Toledo in the province of Castilia - La Mancha, 50 miles south of Madrid.

BUT: while all these places are beautiful and worth a visit, they are also flocked by tourists from March to October.

Thus I have chosen a slightly different itinerary, maybe not completely off the beaten track, but exclusive enough to let you get away from the busloads of all-inclusive-tourists (went there, did that, bought the T-shirt) and Japanese visitor groups (view the world through the lens of a video camera).

AUTHOR'S NOTE: INDIVIDUALISED RATING SYSTEM
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Starting with this article, I am applying this system to my longer travel reviews which cover more than just one sight in a city, region or country. This shall help the consumer/traveller to chose the most valuable destinations that suit him/her best, when time or route only allow a limited scale of sightseeing.

The rating system follows the general product rating of Ciao, i.e.:

@ very poor – a place to avoid like the plague
@@ poor – you won't miss much if you don't get there
@@@ average – visit only if you happen to be nearby
@@@@ good – should plan a tour for this one
@@@@@ excellent – an absolute must see

This approach seeks to turn my reviews into a more user-friendly "product appraisal” rather than a travelogue which would better be published on a travel website.

THE SIGTHS
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The following list of sights was designed to comprise one possible day-trip from Madrid. Travel is best undertaken by car. In order to see all these destinations on one day, one should depart from Madrid before 9 am, but of course you can also visit them individually on shorter excursions.

This collection of destinations should be a fair representation of the kinds of castles, cathedrals, monuments, medieval cities and mountain nature which can be found all around the Province of Madrid and Castilia.

EL ESCORIAL – @@@ A scarce example of Renaissance

30 miles west of Madrid, off the N6 highway, the town of El Escorial is the site of the Royal Monastery Residence. Built from 1563-84, it is one of very few Renaissance buildings in Spain. The monastery is one huge square block with a tower in each corner and several courts and side wings on the inside. I am not particularly fond of this place, because its simple and strict design doesn't really stir my imagination, and I am not a great fan of the Renaissance. I do however like the ride to El Escorial. Still miles away, you can already see the monastery as it overlooks the woodlands from the top of a hill.

At the centre of the building are the Basilica, the Royal Pantheon and the Pinacotheque (arts collection). The Basilica is worth a look for its beautiful large altar room, but the rest of the church is rather plain. So is the pantheon, but it exudes the spirit of history – most Spanish kings are buried here. Again, the Pinacotheque is not so much to everybody's liking, it contains renaissance paintings of Flemish, Italian and Spanish masters. I would however like to recommend the library. This contains around 40,000 books from the private collection of Philip II. Not that you would read them, but the beautiful paintings and frescos on the ceiling are unmatched anywhere near Madrid.

On the whole, you may only like to take a longer tour of the monastery if you are a fan of Renaissance architecture and arts. If you are not, then El Escorial is still worth a short detour, if only for the scenic drive through the wooded hills and the wonderful views towards and from the residence.

VALLE DE LOS CAÍDOS – @@@ Remains of a Dark Period.

Valle de los Caídos is located 8 miles north of El Escorial, on the M600 road which leads into the Sierra Guadarrama. It is a huge funeral for the victims of the Spanish Civil War. Although the graves are not visible – except that of former dictator Franco – there are over 40,000 buried here. A Basilica and the huge Santa Cruz Monument is the centre of the sight, the latter is a 150 metres high cross which overlooks the whole valley.

The whole sight is rather depressing and very controversial in Spain, because the monument and basilica were built in 16 years long construction process by prisoners of war, many of whom died. But you can't really travel to Spain without visiting a memorial for the civil war, an event which has influenced Spanish consciousness throughout much of the 20th century.

SIERRA DE GUADARRAMA – @@@@ Splendid nature.

Now for something much more beautiful and inspiring. The north and northwest of the Province of Madrid is made up of a scenic mountain range, the Sierra de Guadarrama. Coming from El Escorial (or directly from Madrid on the N6 Highway if you have skipped the first part of this tour), you follow the M600 and M604 roads which take you right into the central part of these mountains, the Sierra Centro.

This one hour drive takes you up the pass to the town of Navacerrada, a popular Spanish ski resort. The road is very steep and full of hair pin curves, and thus requires good driving skills. This would truly make for one of the more difficult stages of the Vuelta, the Spanish equivalent to the Tour de France. You can enjoy always new spectacular views of mountains, hills and valleys, and conifer woodlands. Should you choose to travel by train, the railway to Puerto de Navacerrada follows a less steep route through the valley, but is no less beautiful.

If you want to spend a whole day hiking in the Sierra, you can do so in the Valle de Fuenfría National Park, near the town of Cercedilla.

The Puerto de Navacerrada, the top of the mountain pass, marks the border between the Province of Madrid and the Province of Castilia Leon. The road down from Navacerrada leads to San Ildefonso, the next destination at the feet of the northwestern slopes of the Sierra.

SAN ILDEFONSO – @@@@ Only second to Versailles.

This is a real insider tip. Not that San Ildefonso couldn't be found in the guidebooks, but it is missed by all those tourists who avoid the mountain route and drive directly to Segovia on the main roads.

La Granja de San Ildefonso is a beautiful palace and park on the northwestern slopes of the Sierra de Guadarrama. It was built by in 1720 by Felipe V, a grandson of the French king Louis XIV, and Louis tried to resemble his childhood memories of Versailles in the construction of this site.

Upon arrival, the Palace offers a beautiful front view: large old chestnut trees set against the baroque facade. The baroque style continues on the inside. Marble, gold and velvet are spread all over the place, and the room ceilings are decorated with magnificent frescos and huge crystal chandeliers. Although a fire destroyed much of the castle in 1918, all rooms have been fully restored.

The real treasure of La Granja de San Ildefonso lies it its widespread park. You may indeed be reminded of Versailles by San Ildefonso's fountains, lakes, bushes formed to artworks, and rows of chestnut trees. In the dry and hot climate of central Spain, San Ildefonso is a fresh green miracle, only made possible by its location below the Sierra de Guadarrama mountains which provide shelter from the burning sun.

SEGOVIA – @@@@@ A Jewel of Architecture and History

Segovia is only ten miles west from San Ildefonso. Unlike many other old Spanish cities which gained importance either during the Arab rule or in the late middle ages, Segovia was already a centrepiece of the Roman Province Hispania Tarraconensis, its ancient Latin name was Secuvia. However, there is a legend that Segovia was already founded in 1076 BC by a great-grandson of Noah, Hercules the Egyptian. Thus Segovia is one of few Spanish cities which bear remains of all periods of Hispanic history.

The oldest monument is the Roman AQUEDUCT, built in 26 BC. Coming from San Ildefonso, this is also the first view you catch of Segovia, and quite a spectacular one. At over 700 meters length and 30 meters height, the Aqueduct is huge. It was in use until 1884 to transport water from the Acebeda river, 10 miles from Segovia. Unfortunately and unlike many other Roman aqueducts all around Mediterranean Europe, you cannot walk across this one.

The direct path to Segovia's other attractions would be one of the steep alleys that lead up into the old town next to the aqueduct. But you will get to see much of the old town anyway as you stroll around Segovia later, so I would recommend that you take a little side trip along Plaza del Gila, Calle de San Millan and Calle de San Valentin. The latter leads to the park and Rio Clamores below the old city, from where you can catch a great view of the cathedral and the castle.

Stairs and alleys lead up from the river park to the central sight of Segovia, the CATHEDRAL, which has had a very troublesome history. The original Santa Maria Cathedral from the 12th century was located on a different place opposite the castle. In 1520 a revolt broke out in Castilia, led by Charles V. His followers gathered in the cathedral, whereas the Royalists occupied the castle. The result of the battle was almost the complete destruction of the old cathedral.

The construction of the new cathedral started in 1525. Although the cathedral is mainly gothic in style, the incorporation of some of the remains of the old cathedral has resulted in a mix of gothic and romanic architecture. Plus there are many elements of the typical Spanish style which has resulted from the mix with Arab architecture in the early middle ages. Many of the side altars are baroque. Thus the cathedral of Segovia constitutes a unique combination of architectural styles which can only be found in very few churches across Europe.

At the end of the huge rock which is the ground for the old part of Segovia, the ALCAZAR castle reaches into the landscape like the bow of a ship. The Alcazar is a mighty fortress. Its construction began in 12th century and lasted well into the 16th century, and the latest expansion was conducted in 1764 to host an artillery academy. Much of the castle was destroyed in a fire in 1862 and subsequently restored.

On the inside, the Alcazar appears like an oriental palace. This results from the Trastámara Dynasty's love for Segovia. Henry IV turned it into his royal residence and in 1452 had the oriental elements added, including a whole hall with pine cone decoration. in 1474, the famous queen Isabella I of Castilia was crowned in Segovia, and in 1492 Columbus (Colon in Spanish) came to the Alcazar to report to Isabella his discovery of what he thought was the sea route to India.

A very interesting part of the Alcazar is the weapons yard and the adjacent collection of knight armours. From the outside defence walls of the castle, you can catch some great views of Segovia and the surrounding plains and hills.

When you're done with the main sights, Segovia is an inviting spot to stroll around the OLD CITY with its picturesque small alleys. Or you may wish to rest over a cup of coffee in one of the many street cafes on Plaza de la Catedral or Plaza Mayor. A promenade along the old city walls provides some nice views of the surrounding area. Segovia is also a good place to buy souvenirs and handicraft works, they are a lot cheaper here than in Madrid.

You shouldn't leave Segovia without enjoying an extended dinner there. The LOCAL CUISINE is famous for two things: piglets and lambs. You should start your meal with grilled Chorizo sausage, and pick a lamb joint as your main course. Or, if you are travelling with a larger group, a whole suckling pig maybe the perfect choice.

Returning to Madrid in the evening, you don't have to go all the way back through the mountains, but can stay on the main roads that lead back to the N6 highway. This route can safely be driven at darkness, so you have all the time you need to explore Segovia and enjoy an extensive meal there at night. The ride back to Madrid takes around one and a half hours.

TRAVEL ADVICE
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TRANSPORT

As said before, travelling to these recommended sights is most convenient by car, in fact for some places this is the only possible transport. The following can also be reached by train from Madrid: El Escorial, Segovia, and Puerto de Navacerrada (Sierra Centro). Should you travel by train, don't attempt to visit all the a.m. places in one day – all of them can only be reached by switching trains several times, which is very time consuming.

SEASONAL VARIATIONS

The mountains of the Sierra de Guadarrama have snow well into April. Thus the climate in the villages of the Sierra as well as at San Ildefonso can be very chilly in the winter months. Should you be taking the mountain route from Madrid to Segovia via the Sierra and San Ildefonso during these months, do expect road jams due to masses of Spanish skiing tourists. A more sensible approach during the winter months may be to limit the tour to El Escorial, Valle de los Caídos and Segovia and stay on the main roads in the plains. Unless, of course, you are into skiing. Mind you that the popular destinations of Salamanca, Avila and Toledo are not so crowded during the winter months, and these can be reached easily on the highway.

OPENING TIMES

Almost everywhere in Spain, public sights such as museums, monasteries and castles are open Tuesday to Sundays, usually from 10 am to 6 pm, although some museums may be opened longer in the evenings. Many of these sights offer free entrance on Sundays.

LITERATURE
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CEES NOOTEBOOM, "ROADS TO SANTIAGO" – @@@@@

Cees Nooteboom, a prolific Dutch writer who is very famous in continental Europe, has skilfully picked up an old theme in this book which features dedicated chapters on Segovia and San Ildefonso, two sights I have described above.

Since the medieval times, pilgrims as well as skilled craftsman have embarked on a journey from Northern Europe and the British Isles through Spain to the city of Santiago de Compostela, in the northwestern corner of the Iberian Peninsula. Whereas the pilgrims have sought absolution and cure from disease, the Cathedral of Santiago was the main inspiration for gothic buildings in Europe. Many British masons learned their craft here and applied it to the gothic cathedrals on the British Isles.

Far more than a description of the old pilgrims route, the Jacob Path, Nooteboom embraces history, philosophy, architecture, the fine arts and nature in his account of Spain. This is an extremely enlightening read, an intellectual travel guide which leaves the Jacob route to include all of Spain, but stays clear of the tourist areas.

Recommended Travel Guide:
EYEWITNESS CITY GUIDE MADRID – @@@@

This city guide includes all destinations outside Madrid which can be reached on a day trip, thus it is very useful for the destinations I have discussed and for other excursions in the Provinces of Madrid and Castilia.

As I have explained in my detailed review on Dorling Kindersley's Eyewitness series, I like this travel guide for its 3D views and its technique of cutting into a building, which allows you to gain a good visual concept of the sight. In a region so full of castles, cathedrals, monasteries and museums as the city and province of Madrid, this is particularly useful.

WEBSITES
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There are hundreds of websites with travel guidance for Madrid and Spain on the net, including information on many of the a.m. destinations. Chose the following as your starting point:

www.sitesatlas.com/Europe/Spain/spamain.htm

Only an introductory site itself, you will find a large variety of useful links here which are listed under the individual destination pages.

UPDATE 27.04.2001
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A fellow Ciaoer, danieletheridge, has argued that my overall rating was not reasoned well enough, and no disadvantages/improvements mentioned in my 2860 words, six hours work review, and thus has rated this opinion "only" helpful. Thus I have taken on his qualified advice and have added the following section, elevating the whole article over the 3,000 words boundary:

FINAL VERDICT
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The Province of Madrid (mind you this is a guide to the province, a city guide will follow), is full of architectural sights and natural beauty. Yet, I am only rating it 4 stars, because there are other regions on the Spanish mainland which are even richer in culture and nature(Andalucia, Castillia-La-Mancha). But I certainly recommend spending one day of visit to Madrid for exploring the surrounding area.

SCENERY - @@@@

The Sierra de Guadarrama which makes up the northern half of the province is a nice recreation area with excellent hiking paths, albeit a bit remote. Exploring it to the fullest requires a whole day, which may not be worth it in the light of competing attractions in and around Madrid. The medieval towns all around the province and central Spain are picturesque sights filled with beautiful castles and cathedrals.

SHOPPING - @@@@

The smaller towns around Madrid are good for buying handicraft such as textiles, leather and wood works. Souvenirs such as postcards and t-shirts are also much cheaper than in Madrid itself. Don't expect to find any department stores or shopping malls in this rural region.

ACTIVITIES/NIGHTLIFE - @@@@

The Sierra is an excellent spot for outdoor activities, mainly hiking, biking, skiing and fishing. Nightlife centers around the many good restaurants, but as you can expect from small tons scattered around a huge region, there is no pubbing/clubbing scene.

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© 2001 by Hansjörg Gebel, Witten, Germany

 

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