Manly

...by the Port Jackson & Manly Steamship Company in 1940 to describe “Australia’s Premier Seaside Resort” and boy, is it still appropriate today!!

Manly has it’s own comprehensive website at http://www.manlyweb.com.au.

Exchange rate used £1 = AS$2.30

***Background***

I have been to Manly many times and actually lived there for nine months when my wife and I took a year out to travel (or more ...
...We were initially attracted to Manly simply because it wasn’t Bondi and whilst it is only about 2 miles from Bondi as the crow flies it takes well over an hour to drive there as they are on completely different sides of the “Heads” (the North & South Heads is the opening where the Harbour meets the Pacific Ocean). Bondi is where all the Brits and backpackers go (as it is the place everyone has heard of) and so we went to Manly because it is largely ... more

Seven miles from Sydney, a 1000 miles from care……

….was the slogan used by the Port Jackson & Manly Steamship Company in 1940 to describe “Australia’s Premier Seaside Resort” and boy, is it still appropriate today!!

Manly has it’s own comprehensive website at http://www.manlyweb.com.au.

Exchange rate used £1 = AS$2.30

***Background***

I have been to Manly many times and actually lived there for nine months when my wife and I took a year out to travel (or more accurately used it as a base to travel from). We have some detailed records of our trip and several scrap books/photo albums but this site has inspired me to commit it all to paper so I hope you enjoy this review and I also hope that if you ever go to Sydney then you take time out for a day in Manly.

We were initially attracted to Manly simply because it wasn’t Bondi and whilst it is only about 2 miles from Bondi as the crow flies it takes well over an hour to drive there as they are on completely different sides of the “Heads” (the North & South Heads is the opening where the Harbour meets the Pacific Ocean). Bondi is where all the Brits and backpackers go (as it is the place everyone has heard of) and so we went to Manly because it is largely the opposite.

Manly has a population of 36,000 but attracts over 6m visitors annually (source 2001 census)

***History***

Captain Arthur Phillip of the Royal Navy left England in 1787, with a fleet of ships to establish a colony in New South Wales and in January 1788, the fleet arrived at its destination, Botany Bay, which was found to be unsuitable for settlement.

On 21 January, Phillip with others travelled North and examined Port Jackson (Sydney Harbour), named by Captain James Cook in 1770.

They spent three days exploring Port Jackson and Phillip, impressed by the "confidence and manly behaviour" of a group of aborigines in the northern parts of the harbour, called the place "Manly Cove". This is where Manly Wharf is today.

***Getting There (from Sydney, known as “The City”)***

Based seven nautical miles from Circular Quay (the ferry terminal adjacent to the Opera House), the ferry is today still the most popular mode of transport, as it has been since inception in 1855. Running every thirty minutes each way (adult $6.40 cost for a single) and the trip taking thirty minutes this is the start of the adventure when visiting Manly, which is based on the Northern Beaches of Sydney. The ferry progresses through Sydney Harbour and for the views here it is worth the fare alone. You go past the Opera House on the right and get a great view of the Harbour Bridge on the left and the best place on the ferry to see all this is actually standing right at the front.

As you approach Mossman Point on the left about half way in the journey the ferry turns 90 degree left and this is your first view of Manly in the distance although there is little to see. You then progress past the Heads and even with your eyes shut you still know when this happens as the sea generally becomes very choppy. The trip the other way is actually a lot more inspiring, especially the first time you do it, because as you go around Mossman Point and turn right the magnificent Harbour Bridge and Opera House come into view and if you have never seen it before it is an awe inspiring sight.

Another option for the trip is the Jet Cat which takes 15 minutes and is a high speed trip (cost $8.20 adult single). This is great if you are in a hurry but it only runs at peak hours and given the speed it runs you also take in less of the surroundings.

Other options are a bus from the City which runs regularly (but I never took it) or alternatively a taxi which costs around $25 and for this you get the chance to go over the Harbour Bridge or under the harbour. Similarly, if you got a taxi there from the airport then this will cost around $40 and take 45 mins as the airport is south of the City.

Unfortunately, there is no train service as Manly does not have a train station. Apparently the hoi polloi of Manly felt this was beneath them many years ago and so was never built and once you take the ferry trip you are glad it wasn’t!

***First Impression***

They say first impressions last but if that was the case, being honest, you would probably never go back again!! Arriving by ferry you come into the terminal at Manly Wharf (which is the part of Manly which overlooks Sydney Harbour). Apart from some superb houses/apartments on your right there is very little you can see other than a very tiny beach. Many people have seen this and I suspect got back on the ferry as they think it’s the main beach which is incorrect. The wharf itself has been refurbished in recent years (several years ago it was a wooden dump not unlike a British pier that had seen better days) and is now a modern, two storey block with bars and restaurants overlooking the harbour and is a very popular destination for a night out.

Once leaving the Wharf you cross the road and go straight down the road opposite. This is called The Corso and is a 300 yard pedestrianised road which is packed with bars, restaurants, fast food joints, souvenir shops, banks etc and leads directly from the Wharf to Manly Beach.

The beach itself is stunning and is certainly the central part for the town. Surfers are everywhere (although Manly is not really recognised as a surfing beach like Bondi) and at weekends the beach is packed (although through the week there is plenty of space).

***Places to Stay***

Manly caters for every type of traveller from backpackers to top class hotels. It is not a big place and so there are only a handful of large hotels there. Whilst I have not personally stayed at Manly Backpackers (www. manlybackpackers.com.au) or The Manly Pacific Hotel http://www.accorhotels.com/accorhotels/fichehotel/gb/nov/5462/fiche_hotel.shtml I do know people who have and never heard any complaints (the English rugby team stayed at Manly Pacific when they won the 2003 World Cup).

In addition, the New Brighton Pub on The Corso lets out rooms for backpackers and again whilst I have not stayed there I have seen the rooms as a friend used to be the manager. The rooms are basic but clean and functional www.newbrightonhotel.com.au

Every time we have been we have rented a one bed apartment which costs around $700 (£300) per week. These apartments are very basic but functional. The décor is a bit dated and you can be unlucky in that some of the furniture can be dog eared (the apartments are owned by a mix of private individuals/property companies and so the internal décor can be mixed). However, you get a living room with TV, kitchen and bathroom with ironing facilities, cooker, fridge etc and so it has everything you need and is slap bang in the middle circa 2 minute walk from The Corso. All apartments face the sea although some have restricted views. The block was on Central Avenue although to be honest when we go back I will not use them again simply because there is a lot more choice and it is a case of Russian Roulette as to whether the apartment is any good.

When we arrange a trip I phone the management company up to book an apartment or alternatively book on line (although the web site has disappeared with the details on so it may be that these are no longer available for rent which doesnt surprise me given a lot of the apartments were being used more as private residences). The staff are very friendly and helpful and there is a reception desk which is open 9 – 5 on weekdays with an emergency number for any out of hours problems (which I have never had to ring).

Whilst there a new apartment block was being built and is now open and the rates look very reasonable http://www.manlyapartments.com.au/waterside.htm Even from the outside these look very classy.

Whatever your preference there is lots of choice and excellent value for money given a pound goes a long way in Oz.

***Eating Out***

With over 80 restaurants there is no shortage of places to eat although during the weekend you will still need to book or expect a long wait. Australia is a very cosmopolitan country and Manly is no different with virtually every type of cuisine on offer. However, Asian is probably the most popular but there are also lots of seafood restaurants.

Lots of restaurants are BYO ie, bring your own booze/wine. You simply pay for the meal although some make a $1 charge for uncorking the wine.

Again, the restaurant scene is from high quality establishments to basic fare (and by basic I mean school dinner type settings but with excellent food).

The first thing we do upon arrival in Manly is to ring my favourite restaurant in all the world! This is Ribs and Rump (www.ribsandrump.com.au) based on the sea front circa 50 yards from The Corso. As the name suggest this is a vegetarian’s nightmare. You need to book here, even mid-week as it has a nationwide reputation and the food is superb. The menu is based entirely around meat: huge steaks served blue (which is how the Aussies like it!), racks of ribs, massive chops, stacks of chips/jacket spuds or alternatively you can have seafood. The portions are huge and the waiters bring you a bib to protect yourself with and you are a little self conscious initially but when you realize everyone is wearing one then you fit right in. The cost is excellent value for money and we can generally have a meal for two with beer/wine and coffees for around $55 (£23). All the celebrities go here and are just sat in with the general public as its totally unpretentious. Was sat on the next table to Pat Cash (tennis player) the last time I was there but the English Rugby team were also known to frequent it.

There is also a food court on The Corso which has 6/7 little eateries in it and I have tried them all at some point and none have disappointed. There are several Chinese, Italian and Indian restaurants and you buy your meal and just sit down at any table to eat. The location is basic buffet style, family owned, but the food has always been excellent. Also, it is mainly all you can eat although you are only allowed one trip to the buffet and so it is a question as to how much you can fit on your plate and the employees there have great fun watching to see who can get the most on! Cost is between $6-$8 pp.

Also, Australia must be the world capital for pie shops (at least one thing introduced by the British that has been retained) and Manly has its share of these. Again, you must try this at least once because the pies on offer are superb value, made on the premises with the strangest concoction of ingredients ever and are utterly delicious. One of the many pie shop chains is called “Four N Twenty” (as in the nursery rhythme) and an Aussie mate of mine said their advertising slogan said “Four N Twenty pies – made with real blackbirds” but they had to change it due to politically correct do-gooders (yep – the PC brigade has arrived in Oz as well) but I think he was winding me up!

Given the easy access to Sydney you also are on the doorstep of a magnificent City that has a whole range of restaurants but given this review is specifically about Manly then I won’t include these here.

***Pubs***

Well I extensively researched this part and I will give you an update on the most popular establishments!!

Firstly, I have to start with my favourite haunt which to be fair, is little more than a dive but a great dive at that. This is the Manly Boatshed based on The Wharf end of the Corso. Basic pub grub, live music, weekly comedy night and laid back staff. It used to have a web site which seems to have disappeared, probably because they thought it was too pretentious. Small, cosy venue with lots of surfing/sailing memorabilia on the walls. Great atmosphere and open late and furthermore there’s a pie shop directly opposite for when you stumble out!!

My second favourite is The New Brighton Hotel (known locally as The Shark Bar). Located on the beach end of The Corso it covers four stories with the ground and first floor bars, second floor backpackers accommodation and managers living quarters at the top. It was the first bar I ever got drunk in in Manly so retains a special place in my heart as well as being 1 minutes walk from our apartment!! Has a great verandah overlooking The Corso which is fantastic for a relaxing beer. Has several pool tables amongst other things and any visitor should note the local rules when playing pool. If you lose without potting a ball then you must strip naked and walk around the table – this is imposed if you are aware of the rule or not so beware as I have seen some sights, most of which could have done with a good ironing!!

Across from the Shark Bar is The Steyne Hotel which has nine bars over 2 levels and there is always something going on there. They also do fantastic, cheap, plentiful food and was the only place we found that does a good old Sunday Dinner with Yorkshire Pud. http://www.steynehotel.com.au/index.html

Ivanhoes of Manly is opposite The Boatshed (about 50 yards further down) and has four bars in it but the place is just pretentious. We only tended to go there to show friends when they visited just so they could go in.

The Manly Pacific Hotel also has a very popular bar there that non residents can use. Location is fantastic over-looking the beach and there is generally live music at weekends although is a lot quieter during the week. It can get a little pretentious at weekends (“ten bob millionaires a plenty”) but is generally a good night out.

A better night out is try to them all on the same night. That way you will find at least a couple you would like!

***Shopping***

If this floats your boat then you are going to the wrong place. Shops in Manly are generally local, family owned affairs and it is not the place to go to buy jewellery, clothes, electronics etc. The only shopping of any note to be done here is to buy a souvenir of your trip. That’s not to say that there aren’t any decent shops there because there is but it is not the place to come for a shopping expedition. However, about ten minutes down the road by taxi (also buses run) is Warringah Mall, which is a huge shopping complex with all the national retailers plus dozens of other shops. If a shopping destination is required Warrringah Mall is the place to go. http://www.warringahmall.com.au/

***Things to Do***

Shelly Beach is adjacent to Manly beach and is a small, well protected beach in a cove where the water is calmer. It is about ten minutes walk from The Corso, to the right of Manly beach where there is a walkway to it along the cliffs.

Nature Walks – there are lots of different nature walks from Manly (full list here and I am unable to comment on these as I was generally too busy in The Shark Bar) http://www.manlyweb.com.au/information/what_to_do/walksViews.asp

Ocean World – as you approach Manly Wharf, Oceanworld is on your left and is an aquarium. It is a little bit basic but is like the tardis. It looks very small but inside is huge. It has all types of marine life there and you can swim with the sharks if you desire and could happily spend half a day there no problem and is well recommended. It is not as modern as Sydney Aquarium (based in Darling Harbour) but is rather more quaint
www.oceanworldmanly.com.au

Waratah Park – the Waratah is the state flower of New South Wales and Warratah Park is based approximately 15 miles NW of Manly and you will need a car to get there www.waratahpark.com.au

I must say that without a doubt this was my most favourite place to go. It is out in the Bush (but very easy to find) and is a wildlife reserve and was made famous as this is where the programme Skippy was made and they have retained the buildings where the filming was done (and descendents of Skippy are still there). What I like about this place is that it is totally unpretentious. It is a place that really cares for the animals of which there is a large variety of mainly Australian species. You can cuddle a koala at certain times and there is also a huge paddock you can enter which is teeming with kangaroo and emu and you can buy food and hand feed them and get up really close. Whenever we had any friends over this is where we took them first and everybody loved it as it is basically purely Australian. However, since our visit there have been some changes and it is now only open at night, which will take away a lot of the charm.

Palm Beach – not really a lot there to be honest but made famous as it is where Home & Away is filmed. It is the Northern most of the Northern beaches approximately 30 minutes drive from Manly and we used to go there whenever we went to Waratah Park as it was only a minor detour on the way back.

Taronga Zoo – I will forever be inspired by this zoo. I have lost count of the number of times I have been and have always been sad to leave and never been bored. For a start, it has to have the best location in the world, overlooking Sydney Harbour opposite the Opera House. It is very easy to get there from Manly also. 15 minutes by taxi or 20 minutes by bus (regular service) or you could do the scenic route and get a ferry from Manly to Circular Quay then a separate ferry to the zoo (which has its own wharf). However, inevitably the ferry timetable doesn’t fit in so you end up waiting around but it is well worth doing it via the ferry at least once. Admission $32 (£13) adults/$17.50 (£7) kids http://www.zoo.nsw.gov.au/content/view.asp?id=39

Blue Mountains – approximately 90 minutes West of Manly are the Blue Mountains, so called because they appear in a blue haze (the Aussies tend to call things as they see them: Snowy Mountains, Blue Mountains, Red Centre – the list goes on!). The town which is the gateway to them is called Katoomba and is set up entirely for tourism. Again, well worth an overnight stay here to get the full benefit (which we had to do once inadvertently as we got snowed in!! It was the worst snow fall they had had in 80 years and it wasn’t even winter and I was in a pair of shorts and flip flops!). Plenty to see and do here including the three sisters, bushwalking, museums, 4 wheel drive excursions, mountain biking, horse riding, as well as a trip on the world’s steepest railway which goes down the side of the mountain!!, Skyway cable car ride with a glass floor, Jenolan Caves,

In terms of accommodation there is plenty available from backpacking hostels to decent hotels. http://www.bluemts.com.au/

Hunter Valley – approximately 90 mins North of Sydney is Hunter Valley which is the Vineyard region of New South Wales. Again, whilst you can go on a day trip you get much more out of it by having a 1/2 night stay. We booked a cottage (of which there are plenty and unfortunately I cannot find a web link to) which cost $120 (£50) per night between four of us. Typical log cabin in Pokolbin, which is the gateway to the vineyards. Very comfy with log fire, two bedrooms/bathrooms and own garden with BBQ. The town is nearby for supplies and there were plenty of Vineyards within walking distance and for others one of us would drive. From here you have a choice of dozens of vineyards to visit and sample the produce without even feeling obliged to buy something everywhere. You are made to fee really welcome by what are largely family owned vineyards.
http://www.huntertourist.com.au/?gclid=CN3kn4b3wIwCFQwbgQod5jBg2w

Manly Jazz Festival – held every October and Australia’s largest community based jazz festival. Over 70 free performances on six stages from midday until sun-down.

Manly Food & Wine Festival – held every June and attracts over 30,000 people each year.

Sunday Market – based just off the Corso near the beach and brings the visitors in their hordes. Sunday is probably the busiest day of all.

Whenever we had a trip that needed a car we would rent one in Manly (Rent A Ruffy!!). This was exactly as it said on the tin!! For circa $30 per day you could hire a clapped out banger (or at least looked clapped out but mechanically they were all fine). For a higher price we rented a newer car which we used if we had a longer trip. http://www.hotfrog.com.au/Companies/Rent-A-Ruffy-Car-Rentals

***Weather***

I would take absolutely no notice of any weather forecasts as they are useless as we found to our costs many times. On one occasion a live weather report from the City said the weather was lovely when we were looking out of our patio doors watching golf ball sized hailstones.

Official weather has summer temp from 18C – 27C /winter 9C – 17C (remember the summers/winters are opposite to ours). However, I have experienced 45 degrees C on Christmas Day and Snowfall in May so the weather is unpredictable. The winters are usually very sunny but cool (and sometimes gets up to 30 degrees) and summers steaming hot and can be either dry or humid.

***Conclusion***

Whatever the perception, the Aussies love the English and wherever you go in Manly you are welcomed. They are all generally very friendly people who will accost you in a bar for a chat and they will tell you as it is. It is also a well known fact that as soon as they find out you are English they will know a sibling/relative/friend named Bruce who spent six months work experience in London then ask you if you knew him. Furthermore, they won’t be put out if you say no!!

Manly is probably not the place where you will go for a two week holiday and stay there and it’s not meant to be. However, for any visitors to Sydney a visit to Manly is a must even if it’s just for the ferry ride.

To me, Manly will always be one of my most favourite places on earth and there is no doubt whatsoever that we will go back there.

It’s a great place to have just as a base because it’s so relaxing when you are there and it is very easy to get to everywhere else at the same time.

If you have come this far then I thank you for reading what was a very long piece and I am glad to retain your attention for that long!!

Seven miles from Sydney, a 1000 miles from care – a truer word has rarely been spoken….. 

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