Beautiful architecture, interesting history, good shopping, nice cafes
Disadvantages:
Can be terribly crowded - especially on holiday weekends
Recommend to potential buyers:
yes
Full review
The world's biggest beer festival has just come to a close and thousands of hung-over tourists are stumbling out of Munich this morning. The 169th Oktoberfest drew several million thirsty visitors to the Bavarian capital, and while many of them may not have strayed far from the Teresienwiese where the festival is held, the crowded streets of the Old City were proof that scores of them did--at least temporarily--pry themselves away from their 1-litre mugs (ein Mass) of beer and venture to Marienplatz, the central square in Munich's Altstadt (old town), for a taste of culture...if not for more beer.
SITES & HISTORY Dominating the square is the city's neo-Gothic Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall), which houses the main tourist office at street level. This is an excellent opportunity for visitors to get oriented: maps, guidebooks, and information on walking tours, cultural events and special happenings are all available here. Time your visit right and you'll get to see one of the performances of the famous glockenspiel. At 11 am, noon and 5 pm, the nearly lifesize figures of the clock reenact two events in Munich history: a tournament held to celebrate a royal marriage in 1568, and the Schäfflertanz (Coopers' Dance), which dates to the 17th century and celebrated the passing of the plague. (Visit Munich in 2005 and you'll see the dance performed live!) A short 9 pm performance features the Münchner Kindl, the little monk that is the symbol of the city, who is led to bed by the Night Watchman of Munich and the Friedensengel (Angel of Peace). The 43 bells of the clock (which weigh about 7000 kg) play 'Lullaby', while the clock is specially lit for the duration of the performance.
Unfortunately, the tourist information office and the glockenspiel are all that many people know about the New Town Hall, but the building itself has a fascinating history. Built in the 1860s, the Neo-Gothic structure is a result of a power play by a local, rather conservative politician who opposed the city's plan for a Renaissance-style design to replace the Altes Rathaus (Old City Hall), which Munich had outgrown. He made enough noise that officials capitulated, rescinded the offer they had made to the local architect they'd chosen to design the new administrative headquarters and instead gave the project to a 24-year-old newcomer, Georg von Hauberrisser, who was still a student at the time. Hauberrisser approached his task with the characteristic fervor of any newly-employed college graduate and designed everything himself: the intricate façade, the labyrinth pattern on the floor of the main inner courtyard, the furniture and even the lighting fixtures. But by the time the building was ready to open in 1874,everyone realised there was one problem: it was too small. While the city arranged the purchase of additional property, Hauberrisser literally went back to his drawing board. It was during this second phase of design and construction that the famous, tourist-attracting clock was added to the building. Interestingly-and as a sad reminder of the times- the heirs of the local businessman who had funded the glockenspiel, were later repaid after the donor's Aryan purity came into question in 1939. The extension was completed in 1904 and it is easy to see where one construction phase ended and the next began: the red brick of the earlier half meets the white stone of the second half in the middle of the facade. In an effort to give the structure a more unified appearance, statues of the Wittelsbach royal family were added after completion.
Definitely take a stroll inside-it's a public building and is open during regular business hours. Aside from most of the original furnishings it was not badly damaged during the war and the lovely stained glass windows, twisting staircases, vaulted ceilings and elaborate woodwork are, for the most part, in their original state. The Kassenhalle on the ground floor features cultural exhibitions throughout the year. Finally, the Ratskeller, a restaurant in the basement of the building, should not be missed. Serving traditional food and drink to all, not just to the political elite of the city council, the sprawling Ratskeller is casual but the grand archways, ornately painted ceilings and hand-carved woodwork are stunning. Large, open rooms and tiny, intimate nooks provide space for both a quiet, romantic dinner for two as well as a good time out with friends.
If you're visiting the Town Hall on a clear day, take advantage of the opportunity to ascend the hall's 85-meter-high tower. Tickets cost only EUR 1.50 for adults and the view of the city and the Alps to the south is quite rewarding (open Mon.-Fri. 9 am-7 pm, Sat.-Sun. 10 am-7 pm; adult).
Beyond the Neues Rathaus, Marienplatz offers several other interesting things to see. The Old Town Hall, to your right if you're watching the glockenspiel, houses a toy museum (currently showing teddy bears from around the world). The main hall inside now hosts classical music concerts. The Mariensäule, or St. Mary's Column, in the center of Marienplatz, was erected in 1638 in gratitude for the preservation of Munich by the Swedes during their occupation of the city in 1632. It's also where the square gets its name. The Fischbrunnen (fish fountain), the city's oldest fountain, is a popular meeting point on Marienplatz. Destroyed during the war and rebuilt in 1954, the fountain contains three of the original figures, depicting costumed butchers during Fasching (Carnival) but the fish atop the fountain is new. Tradition holds that following the carnival festivities that lead up to Lent, there should be no money left in one's wallet. On Ash Wednesday, the mayor of Munich symbolically washes the city's wallet in the fountain, to guarantee a healthy fiscal future for the city. Other revelers uphold the tradition by dipping their wallets into the fountain, too.
SHOPPING & EATING Several major department stores are located on Marienplatz. The sprawling Kaufhof has everything from toilet paper to fine crystal to power tools and there's an up-market grocery store on the lower level as well as a special Reber chocolates counter, where the maker of the famous Mozart Kugeln showcases exclusive pralines and truffles unavailable elsewhere in Germany. (For those unfamiliar with Mozart Kugeln, they're sinful nuggets of pistachio and almond marzipan, nougat coated in milk and dark chocolate. Often assumed to be an Austrian company, Reber, in fact, started life as a cafe-confectionery in Munich in 1865.) The clothing store Ludwig Beck offers several floors worth of fashions for men, women and children. the store also has a cafe and a music section. Other shops near Marienplatz include Gap, Esprit, H&M, a multitude of small boutiques, trendy retailers and a number of locations for shoes, accessories, jewelry and leather goods (you know you want a pair of Lederhosen, don't you!).
Hugendubel, a chain of bookshops throughout Munich, has a prime location on Marienplatz. The store's six levels of space includes a good English book section on the ground floor, and an extensive selection of language and travel resources (some also in English) on upper levels. The café on the sixth floor offers a great view of the square and is one of the very few, smoke-free places to enjoy a good cup of tea or a bite to eat. Marienplatz is sprinkled with other cafes and restaurants, too and outdoor seating is abundant during warmer months. If you're in the mood to spoil yourself a little, head down the Dienerstrasse (near the fish fountain) and go to Dallmayr. This gourmet shop, especially known for its coffee, has been a Munich fixture for ages. It's chic and elegant -with prices to match- but hey, you're on holiday, aren't you?
GETTING THERE Marienplatz is a major public transportation hub. All eight lines of the regional rail, or S-Bahn, stop here, as do two of the Underground lines, the 3 and the 6. Streetcar 19 stops nearby (behind the Neues Rathaus) and Bus 52, which goes to the lovely zoo in the southern part of the city, stops right on the square in front of the Old Town Hall. (Aside from bus and taxi traffic, Marienplatz is a pedestrian zone.)
WHEN TO VISIT You could, of course, come for Oktoberfest- which I suppose everyone should experience at least once in a lifetime. And winters aren't too bad - especially for skiiers - the alps are within an hour of the city. The annual Christkindlmarkt (Christmas market) on Marienplatz -this year from November 29th through December 24th- is nice and very typically German. But I think the city is best enjoyed between late spring through early autumn when the weather is nice and you can claim a sunny spot at an outdoor cafe and sip an iced coffee or sample another beer, and then stroll through the old city or go to one of the very green, very lovely parks. Ah! Only seven months to go!
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