My daughter and myself have recently been lucky enough to spend four days in Marrakech in October. It was to me an amazing experience. We had a very early morning flight with Easy Jet, which meant we had most of the rest of the day to spend in Marrakech. From emails that I had been exchanging with the mamagers of The Riad Zolah in whch we were staying I knew we were being met at the airport, and taken as close to the Riad as a taxi can get. We were the last people out of the airport as I had left some things on the plane, and had to wait for it be be boarded before they would go and look for them. Luckily they were still there, and so was the taxi driver. It is an easy 15 minute drive to where we were dropped off, and met by a young lad with a big wooden cart which took our luggage and he guided us through souks and bewildering smelly, dusty alleyways to get to the Riad. I knew it was going to be like this, but hadn't told my daughter - goodness knows what she was thinking as we walked.

Marrakech is amazing. We ventured out that sunny afternoon, and found our way to Djemma EL Fna Square, walking through the souks and alley ways again. It was an easy 10 minute walk, but extremely interesting. It is a mix of the poor and wealthy, but you mostly see the poor. Women sitting on the pavements with several young babies and children begging, little brown eyed boys begging you to buy their tissues from them. Cats and kittens looking scrawny and unhappy. Mopeds mix with poor looking donkeys, - they are the only things that can fit through the narrow alleys, with their heavy loads. The smell of petrol and donkey is not pleasant but a part of Marrakech. That afternoon as we waled into the sqaure my daughter had a monkey plonked onto her arm, and stupid me not thinking took a picture of them, and we were then accosted by the owner to pay him for the privelege. He got quite nasty until I gave him 10 Dirhams. A lesson there don't take photos in the square unless you are certain you are not being watched. Unfortunately you nearly always are. We then decided on a red bus tour, which cost £20 for both of us for 24 hours, with free earphones for the commentary, and you can get on and off as much as you like. The same as a london bus here. There aretwo routes to take - we took both, inside and outside the city walls. You can also take a horse and carriage ride, but my daughter Amy, said she thought they looked unhappy, uncared for had no water, and didn't want to add to their pain. She did have a point. But you can find a long line of these horses on entering the square and folowing your nose!!!. The bus ride was very interesting and we got to see more than we would have had we taken the horse. Indeed we just happened along a McDonalds, which to my shame I have to say we did experience. Amy is a very fussy eater. I haven't even admitted to my husband yet that the next day we did go there, and it was a pleasant experience to eat an Arabic McDonalds. We also saw KFC and a Pizza hut, which we did not try.

The next day we had a trip up the Atlas mountains. We had our own taxi and driver, and he stopped on the way so we could go into a Womens co-operative and see how they make Almond oil, and all the other products like soap, cooking oil etc. It was interesting, but of course we had to buy things and it was quite expensive. We also stopped at a market, which is nothing like you could imagine, or what they are like over here. Fresh fruit and vegetables piled high. Great enourmous onions. Donkey everywhere, and then the worse bit - the meat market. Cow's head with their tongues lolling out, animals feet mixed with blood on the floor, and animals hanging up everywhere dripping with blood. I have to say not a very attractive sight, but it is a part of their way of life. We went to a Kasbah for our lunch, and had to ride on a mule to get to the top bit,which I wish I hadn't done, and it was quite disappointing because I had read that this Kasbah is owned by a company in Godstone in Surrey near where we live. Took the magic away somehow. We were served a four course lunch, of salad, Tagine, couscous and fresh fruit. It was extremely cold up there, and we could see snow on the next mountain. It was a very pretty place though, and on the journey back which takes about an hour and a half, we could see women washing clothes in the streams, and tending to their animals. Very authentic.

Earlier on that evening we had gone to the square to experience it in the dark. And I must say I personally didn't think it was as impressive as its made out to be. I suppose if we had eated in one of the stalls there it would have added to the atmosphere, but there was no fear of my daughter doing that. She did however have her ankle henna'd, which cost more than the agreed sum as the lady had gone further up her leg, than first agreed on. Any way to make some money, but again that is the way of life for them. We could see snake charmers, the monkeys obviously, and story tellers with owls who were very popular. And some other unusual games which didn't seem to fit with the rest of the square - a fishing game involving coke bottles, and a golf game!!

Marrakech is a mix. It's like marmite. You either love it or you hate it. I love every bit of it. The lovely Riads, with their calming welcome, and in our case hosts who always had time for us, and nothing was too much trouble. Sitting in a bar watching the world go by. The taxis, mixing with hundreds of mopeds, and a few mad cyclists, donkey mixing with pedestrians, who take their lives into their hands every time they cross the road. Indeed I nearly lost the battle on two ocassions, once with a moped and once with a car's wing mirror.