Guess who won a 5 day trip to the Masai Mara National Park?
This was something I was truly looking forward to. I've never been much of a beach to hotel and back again type tourist, so this would be real adventure in a place I'd never been to, and I was horribly excited.
First and foremost, though, was the safety aspect. I went off to the doctor who consulted the map and told me to have the Yellow Fever jab, and to take anti-malaria tablets. The side effects of both of them could be pretty nasty, but I had to remember that they wouldn't be half as bad as the full blown illnesses. Plus, the Yellow Fever jab would last for 10 years so at least there was some milage in that pain. The malaria pills, Paludrine, had to be taken for a few weeks before leaving then for 4 weeks after our return. They were likely to cause headaches, stomach upsets and possibly dizzyness, - I'm not even sure that they advise you to take them now as they were so unpleasant - but it had to be better than malaria.
Packing the case was easy. T-shirts, shorts, swimsuit, hat, sunblock, suntan lotions and lots of moisturising creams with aloe vera. Trouble was when we got there and found that the first safari was at 5 am, that time of day it's freezing cold! I borrowed the old man's jumpers and closed my ears to the guffaws from others (I'm 5ft2 he's 6ft3). But be warned. The "best" safari is the first one of the day when the animals are active and on the hunt for food, and it is cold before sun up. Take enough warm clothes and jeans to get you through that bit.
We stayed in the Masai Mara Game Lodge and it was fabulous. The only things was that I hadn't allowed myself to truly think about the conditions there, so it was a bit of a shock to find that there was only hot water twice a day, between 5am-7am and 5pm-7pm and the same went for electricity as well. The nearest doctor was in Nairobi, about 500 miles away. The insects that you may find in your room, aren't the same as the ones back home, and if they are, they're twice as big.
The accommodation was excellent, being constructed like a large round hut. Our bathroom had a huge shower, and every morning my hands would shake as I started to pull back the curtains as I was convinced I'd find a tarantula or something equally terrifying, lurking on the wall. It never happened, thankfully. Plus the Lodge thoughtfully supplied a large can of something called "Doom" which you just aimed and squirted at whatever it was offending you, so I did feel safe. Hubbie didn't.
Safari's were booked twice a day, and off we'd go with our spotters books. Our guide told us he was taking us to find some White Rhinos that were in the park. There were 3 of them in 300 square miles of game reserve! Find them he did, bless his heart, and there were 6 very happy tourists in our little mini bus.
The mini bus can cause mini heart-attacks, the worst being when you need to get up or out of somewhere and the wheels can't get any purchase. The most uncomfortable few minutes I spent there was whilst we were inside the bus, at a waterhole, watching lions devour a wildebeest carcass (honestly not as gory as you might think), with them less than two feet away from my window, and trying to back out of there and getting nowhere. I have the video of the moment, and all we do is rock backwards and forwards with lots of wheel-spinning noises in the background. Oh and my heart pounding. The lion was getting a bit fed up with us and lifted his head and stared coldly. Straight at me. It took about 5 minutes before we managed to move anywhere, but it seemed like a life time. I had visions of the Lions thinking "Hmmmmmm..... afters....."
They do carry walkie talkies and a gun, but our driver promised us that he'd never had to use it in all the years he'd been doing the job. It gets dark quickly out there though, and I know that he was concerned we were miles away from the Lodge with the light fading. God love him, he gots us back in the dark proving that he really did know the place like the back of his hand.
We managed to see and photograph Zebras, Wildebeest, Giraffes, Elephants, Water Buffaloes, White Rhinocerous, Cheetahs, Lions, Hyenas, Jackals, Vultures, Secretary birds, and Bush Pigs, although to my infinite sadness, not many were in any great numbers. Wildlife really does still need looking after.
We were taken to a Masari Mara village. Here you can buy beadwork, look around their houses and lifestyle in general, and take excellent photographs. The young warriors will also perform their dance for you, and usually humilate the Whiteys by getting you to try and jump as high as they do. Not a chance. These guys are amazing - This next bit's a tad off the track a bit, but it's one of my favourite stories... Nike paid the locals a small fortune to have adverts made with them doing their dances wearing Nike trainers. This they did, with much gusto, singing and dancing. Upon returning, Nike played the completed tapes of adverts to their bosses. One of them knew enough Swahili to know that the warriors were singing things like "Nike are crap"... "We don't like these shoes"...."Don't buy them"...
Handy Swahili:-
Hello - Jambo. How are you? - Habari? Good, very well - Mzuri. Thank You - Asante. Please - Tafadhali. Goodbye - Kwaheri. Nike are crap - Nike are crap.
Climate: -
Sunrise: 6-6.30am Sunset 6.6.30pm Rainy Seasons: - Mid April till end of May and November to Mid December. Inland average: approx 85F/ 29C
Currency:-
Everyone arriving in Kenya had to fill in a currency declaration form which was turned in on departure. DON'T change money on the black market, it's illegal and highly dangerous. Defacing Kenyan currency is a jailable offence, so please make sure that you treat the money with respect! They also advise that only 100 shillings may be taken out of Kenya on departure.
Customs:-
Very hot and rightly so on illegal merchandise such as Ivory, animal skins, game trophies and animal bones.
Manners:-
We found the Kenyans to be really friendly, and they love to shake hands a lot. Please ask before taking photographs, and remember that you shouldn't attempt to photograph Maasai or Samburu people without asking first. Some believe that cameras capture your soul and will refuse, others may ask for money, but please ask first.
I loved it in the Masai Mara. You don't know what you're missing until you've sat on a balcony at midnight, listening to singing frogs and the occasional roaring of something big and scary.
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