Masca Village is an absolute must see for any visitor to Tenerife. Admittedly, it is some distance from Las Americas and Los Cristianos, the two biggest tourist resorts. But it is a trip worth making. For those of you staying in Los Gigantes, Puerto de Santiago or Playa de la Arena, you have a much shorter journey.
THE FORGOTTEN VILLAGE
I'll start by telling you a little about Masca itself. The village of Masca is often referred to by locals as "The Forgotten Village," which is due to the fact that until 1991, there wasn't even a road to get there. The village is located in a gorge in the North West of the Island. Before the road was built, inhabitants would navigate their way down steep mountain footpaths leading to the bay at the bottom and use their boats to go to nearby Los Gigantes for any shopping etc. The village is incredibly rural and still maintains the traditional way of living which has completely disappeared from everywhere else. The population of Masca Village is only around a hundred, most of who remain there to serve the increasing number of tourists, largely hikers, who visit. At the top, the village lies at 2000ft altitude.
WHO GOES THERE?
Nowadays Masca is visited largely by hikers. The most common Masca walk to do follows the following itinery. A coach or car drops walkers off at the top of Masca Village, walkers make their way down the Barranco right to the bay at the bottom, which has a beautiful beach and stunning bay. They are then picked up by a pre-arranged boat which makes the ten minute journey back into Los Gigantes harbour. The walk takes two and a half to three hours down through the scenic gorge. There are, of course, the diehard walkers who choose not to take the boat back and to climb right back up the 2000 ft gorge. Personally, I have never made the return journey! The walk itself is indescribable. There is a huge variety of plants and animals. There are a lot of very, very large lizards around there! You can spot dozens of different varieties of cacti and some incredibly colourful flowers along the way. The track is rocky and dangerous in places and it really is worth taking plenty of sun cream!
THE VILLAGE ITSELF
The road which was built in 1991 leads up to the village. It is a mountain road with very high steep sides, which can be daunting to English drivers on holiday. You can drive through some parts of the village but I advise leaving the car in the roadside car park and walking through the village. There is a gift shop there, a more recent addition to cater for the growing demands of tourists. This, like the little tapas bar and tiny restaurant, are ran by residents of Masca. There is also a tiny church there, in which around eighty people can fit. This church is the focal point of this tiny Catholic community. The small church is stunning but it is appreciated that you cover your legs before going in. The church has hardly been changed in years. As with most Spanish villages, the plaza, or village square is in the centre. This is where the locals sit out in the evening and talk over a glass of wine as the sun sets or where church events take place or small dances or sales. The houses are tiny and there is no modern development taking place here. Roof tiles are often held in place by rocks and dotted around the village are derelict huts from which people have moved out. The houses look like something out of the middle ages. It is simply amazing to see.
GETTING THERE
Getting there is relatively easy now with small coaches going from most major resorts. It takes a little over an hour from Las Americas and Los Cristianos and around twenty minutes from Los Gigantes. I would recommend tourists taking the coaches or buses as driving on these steep sided mountain roads could be very nerve wracking. Access is also simple by boat as most of the tourist boats operating from Los Gigantes stop in the spectacular Masca Bay, from where you can walk up the Barranco to the top. This would take up to four hours (or more if you want to take a nice stroll). Most people prefer driving to the top, walking down and getting the boat back. When I did this Masca walk, it cost me a very reasonable 5 Euros for transport up to Masca by minibus. A friend of mine paid 15 Euros from Las Americas, which is also great value. It was then 8 Euros for the return boat trip. Shop around and be advised that it is often the Spanish run excursion shops that offer the most reasonable rates and the staff always appreciate a "gracias" even if that's all you can say in Spanish. It doesn't go unnoticed.
EATING AND DRINKING
It is very much worth your while taking packed lunch with you. There is a little café bar there but variety is small and the premises smaller. Take plenty of water as well as walking in those temperatures can easily leave you dehydrated.
SOUVENIRS
There is a gift shop selling all kinds of traditional items such as volcanic rock clocks. You can buy postcards and maracas and the usually stationery items that, no matter where you go in the world, you can always buy. Personally some of the best souvenirs I have from Masca though are the photographs I've taken and some of the rocks and plants I have picked up.
TIPS
The track from the top to bottom of Masca is obvious and clearly lays the way for you, but set off in plenty of time. Despite the hot days, it goes dark at around 8pm and from around 6pm the clouds begin to creep down the mountain face. While this is spectacular viewing, it does not make good walking conditions. I'd allow at least 4 hours to get down and 6 to get back just in case of any unexpected stops you might have to make. Most boats also do not pick up from Masca after 6pm. If you are booked on a boat, the boat will generally only wait half an hour for you so get down there in plenty of time.
Take a phrase book. The Forgotten Village is a tiny community and largely elderly. The English spoken by residents, in my experience, is limited if there is any at all. A little effort also goes a long way to making you welcome.
Dress appropriately. If you're walking, of course you'll need the correct equipment. But even if you're only going up to look around the village, flip flops aren't really suitable. You will still need trainers as the path is rough. If you do want to go into the church make sure you're covered up. It is appreciated that you wear t-shirts over bikinis and longer shorts, covering your legs. Even for just wandering around outside the church it is appreciated that you dress so as not to offend, bearing in mind that this is a very small, traditional, rural Canarian community.
You really will not believe just how different this little village is. If you come from one of the big tourist resorts it is like spending a day in a little farming village 500 years back and is an absolute must do. Don't miss this one!
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