Musée du Louvre

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Musée du Louvre > Reviews > To love the Louvre?

Ranked 24 out of 30 in the Ciao Hitlist Best Paris Attractions

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To love the Louvre?
A review by mystikchick17 on Musée du Louvre
July 1st, 2005


Author's product rating:   Musée du Louvre - rated by mystikchick17

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Advantages: Stunning, world famous art, great value for money
Disadvantages: Numerous frustrations

Recommend to potential buyers: yes 

Full review
Intro:

The Louvre is one of those sites that is both inextricably linked to the word "Paris" and one that is simply not possible to miss when you go to Paris, along with such icons as Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower.

Boasting of one of the most impressive art collections in the world, the Louvre's collection does not encompass modern/contemporary art, but has rich offerings in the departments of antiquities and Renaissance masters. Chief amongst it's famous pieces is, of course, Da Vinci's "Mona Lisa," but other key pieces not to be missed are "Winged Victory of Samothrace" and the "Venus de Milo."

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(Some) Key attractions:

If you want to visit the Louvre, now has never been a better time. After being housed in a temporary, rather dingy grey gallery off the long hall that houses the 16-17th century Italian paintings, "Mona Lisa" is now back in her rightful home in the newly restored Salle des Etats. Her new surroundings are spacious, and the light colored background and subtle lighting makes it much easier to admire the painting (as well as accomodating the hordes of tourists who come to gaze upon her mysterious smile each day) without feeling claustrophobic or hot. Given that the room actually has light compared to her old home, one can actually appreciate the mastery of Leonardo's techniques in playing with shadows, even if, like me, you think the fuss over this one painting is a bit overrated. You can also kill two birds with one stone and see the Winged Victory as you enter the hall of Italian paintings, for she sits in all her majesty at the top of a set of marble staircases, waiting to surprise you as you come up the stairs.

The Galleries Apollion have also been reopened after extensive touch-up work, and the gold paint sparkles with new life, free from several hundred years' worth of grime and dust. The Galleries house the former treasures of France's deposed monarchs, including breathtaking gems belonging to the Empresses Eugenie and Josephine, and a fantastic collection of crystal glass. The only complaint about this room was the shoving and rude behavior of the Japanese tour group who tried to elbow their way up to the case to take photos. Otherwise, the room is a nice space to walk around and take in the pieces on display, and can make a good refresher when too much artwork starts to dull the senses.

Napoleon IIIs apartments are also well worth a visit, impressive for their lavish decorations. In particular, his dining table (capable of seating 42 people) and the absolutely MASSIVE crystal chandeliers easily bring to mind scores of luminaries, politicians, and royalty chatting about the affairs of the day while listening to beautiful music in the background. Even the family room, although simpler in comparison to the grandeur of the formal dining room, still wows with its decor. The only complaint is that the apartments are not airconditioned, and in the heat of a Paris summer, can get stifling.

The collection of Greek and Roman sculpture is impressive, but if you have younger children with you, be sure to check out their exhibits on Ancient Egypt. The exhibit includes two circuits, a thematic and a chronological one, and has some marvelous sarcophagi, jewelery, and all the other incredible pieces that the Ancient Egyptians fashioned, which is sure to capture the interest of a museum-weary child. Sadly, the thematic circuit was shut when we visited. The "Venus de Milo" falls under this collection, and is certainly impressive for the smooth, sculpted contours of her body, and a few minutes are well spent taking in her beauty (just try not to get too jealous ladies!)

There are also Flemish tapestries and an decent collection of Dutch masters, and although most of these were shut when I went, the minature potraits of nobility by Holbein were kind of interesting to look at - the pre-photograph day certainly was a different time. I can't imagine choosing my husband from one of those pictures, but hey! The museum also apparently has a cool collection of assorted pieces called "Objets d'Art" but this, again, was shut.

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Frustrations:

With popularity comes lines, and the Louvre has lines that can make buying your tickets a headache, wearing you out before you've even entered the exhibits. That said, the staff at the Louvre are remarkably efficient at trying to clear lines as soon as possible. You can save on time by buying the Musee Carte, available from all Metro stations and at museums. The card is a fabulous deal if you are visiting three or more historical musuems/sites around Paris during your stay, and can be purchased for 1, 3, or 5 days (starting at 18 euros and going up). When you take into account that regular admission (no student discount is given) at the Louvre alone is 8.50, the savings add up quickly. There were automated machines to buy tickets, but these also had long lines and people appeared to be having little success operating them.

The card is also good for multiple visits, which is a great thing when you consider the fact that the Louvre has certain galleries shut each day of the week. A list is posted only at the ticket counter and at the entrances to the four wings, which is very annoying, because unless you pause in the maddness to record precisely which galleries are shut (ex: Ancient and Coptic Egyptian art, rooms 12-25), you will find yourself running around the musem trying to get where you want only to find that you can't because the rooms you thought were open are in fact not, and on more than one occassion, we had to retrace our steps back to the beginning. With the Apartments of Napoleon III, we had to start at the end and work our way through to the beginning and then walk right back to the end again to get in and out because the collections that gave access to the beginning of the apartments were shut! It would be greatly appreciated if the staff could post the signs in more locations.

Another major complaint that ties into this is the lack of bathrooms. Bathrooms look to be well placed on the map, but in reality are not when you take into consideration aforementioned closed galleries. I had an upset stomach and had to do an emergency run, which lead me down to the wrong floor, caused me to be injured by running into a 3,000 year old block of stone, running up the stairs, down the hall of Italian paintings to the old Mona Lisa gallery only to find those bathrooms were shut, and then chancing on the only bathrooms on that floor at the entrance to the Italian sketches, which had JUST been opened after cleaning. This is a valuable point to keep in mind if you have children, because a simple bathroom request in the middle of a gallery can quickly turn into a nightmare.

Also a word on food: although the museum says food is forbidden inside, plenty of people smuggled their own food in. The cafeteria sandwiches are overpriced and tasteless, and there are approximately 5 tables to sit at, which needless to say, are always filled. Your best bet is to bring your own food and drink in or wait until you leave, and snatch a seat on the ground or along one of the ledges in the passages that link each of the four galleries.
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Conclusions:

Yes, the museum has its faults. Yes, it can be a pain to get around, can tire you out, and generally make you want to scream with frustration. But the fact of the matter is, it is well worth the money, and houses some of the most fantastic (or at least famous) pieces in the world. I think the next time I go back, I'm going to buy a 3 day pass and break up my visit over a few days, to avoid getting numb, tired, or fed-up. In the end, it is worth it, if just to say you've been to the Louvre.

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Practical info:

Paris is well served by its Metro - all major landmarks are within walking distance of a Metro station. For the Louvre, you can take lines 1 or 7 to Palais Royale - Musee Louvre. This is likely the easiest option.

Tickets are 8.50 euros regular admission, after 6 pm admission is 6 euros. Children under 18 are free, and there is also a special Carte Louvre Jeunes for under 26s. Admission is also free the first Sunday of the month. Advance purchases can be made at Fnac, Carrefour, Auchan, and Virgin Megastores.

Museum hours: M, Th, Sat, Sun: 9 am - 6 pm. W, F: to 9:45 pm. Closed Tuesdays.

website: www.louvre.fr

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