National Parks (Arizona)

...the ground! Arizona has numerous national parks all well worth a visit. I have managed to visit quite a few now and thought I’d take you on a tour of a few of my favourites, hope you enjoy it!
But before we set off here’s a few useful things to know about the state.


If you are planning to travel from the U.K it is possible to get a non-stop flight to Phoenix. There are several airlines, which now fly this route. We have ...
...of the state my favourite national park has to be the saguaro national park.


The saguaro national park
*********************
The park is split into two halves and is situated both to the west and east of Tucson. My favourite is the western side, which has the tallest cacti and is much bigger too. The main attraction is the amazing saguaro cacti that grow in abundance here. This really is a unique landscape and ... more

I have been lucky enough to visit Arizona several times, most recently last summer. I have toured the state from Tucson in the south to the Grand Canyon in the north and love the diversity of this state. Arizona is probably most famous for being the Grand Canyon state, but there is far more to Arizona than a big hole in the ground! Arizona has numerous national parks all well worth a visit. I have managed to visit quite a few now and thought I’d take you on a tour of a few of my favourites, hope you enjoy it!
But before we set off here’s a few useful things to know about the state.

If you are planning to travel from the U.K it is possible to get a non-stop flight to Phoenix. There are several airlines, which now fly this route. We have always flown with British Airways and have no complaints. I won’t give you any prices as these vary so much depending on when you travel and how early you can book. I would advise you to shop around, as there are big variations. Next you will need to hire a car. It really is essential in Arizona as train links are very poor or non-existent. Bus travel is also impossible except between the larger cities of Phoenix and Tucson. However car hire is easy and there are numerous depots in Phoenix. It is cheaper to pre book a car from the U.K too. Next tip is to book your first night in Phoenix, if that’s where you fly in. You will be very tired and it really is not a good idea to attempt any onward travel! Car hire is cheaper away from the airport too as taxes are lower. Most hotels run a free shuttle to the airport and should be willing to drop you off at your car hire depot.

Climate and when to travel
***********************

The climate in southern Arizona is extremely hot during the summer months. If I tell you that when I first set foot in Phoenix several years ago I thought I must have been feeling the aircraft engines heat! Nothing can prepare you for the temperatures you are likely to experience in Phoenix! Last June when we arrived the temperature was well into the hundreds. As you travel north the temperatures are lower due to the higher elevation. The mountains around Tucson are always a few degrees cooler too.

August is monsoon time in the desert and you can expect violent thunderstorms. At the moment storms are forecast every day for at least a week in and around Tucson. Winters are mild in the south and very cold with heavy snowfall in the north. I once travelled from Tucson where the temperature was in the 70’s only to find roads closed to the north of Flagstaff due to snowdrifts. Probably the best time to visit Arizona is from Mid May until October. Starting in the south of the state my favourite national park has to be the saguaro national park.

The saguaro national park
*********************
The park is split into two halves and is situated both to the west and east of Tucson. My favourite is the western side, which has the tallest cacti and is much bigger too. The main attraction is the amazing saguaro cacti that grow in abundance here. This really is a unique landscape and is not to be missed if you are in Arizona. The cacti can grow to impressive heights and the sweet fruit the cacti produce encourages wildlife such as javelinas (wild pigs) and coyotes. We managed to see both much to the delight of my 6-year-old son. The west side of the park has a really good visitor centre with well thought out displays and walking trail maps. We managed a short walk into the desert; before the intense heat drove us back to our air-conditioned car, well the heat and the rattlesnake we encountered! The park is home to many other species you won’t see at home. The best time to spot wildlife is at dawn and dusk. We saw tarantulas (mainly harmless) coyote, vultures gambols quail and of course that rattlesnake! If you don’t fancy a walk then I would really recommend you do the very scenic Bajada loop road. Although unpaved it is an easy route of about 10 miles and passes through some of the tallest cacti in the park. There are many pull ins and hiking trails too.

I would also recommend you visit the park at dusk as watching the sun set over the Catalina mountains has to be one of my most memorable moments. Linger a bit longer and the night sky will show you what stars should look like minus light pollution. Again beware the desert is not the place to walk at night as this is when the snakes, scorpians and other beasties come out to hunt and you won’t see them until it’s too late! If you are planning a visit to the saguaro national park you will find plenty of accommodation in Tucson where there are really good deals to be had. We rented a house for a week and were very happy! There are no facilities within the park itself apart from drinking fountains and toilets at the visitor centre. Neither side of the park is that large so this is not a problem. It is important to take plenty of drinking water with you. There is no fee to enter the park, but the visitor centre welcomes donations. Before I move on to the next park I should warn that the dirt roads in this desert park can become like rivers during the frequent storms around august and September and are often impassable due to flash floods.

Leaving Tucson and driving about 200 miles north east of Flagstaff you come to the Navajo reservation and the Canyon de Chelly (pronounced shay)

Canyon de Chelly
***************

The drive from Flagstaff was for me monotonous, hot and dusty. However the canyon de chelly is really worth the effort! The Canyon de Chelly national monument consists of 2 major canyons, the Canyon de Chelly and the Canyon del Muerto. The Canyons extend for over 100 miles. We came to see the Canyon de Chelly as we wanted to see the well-preserved Anasazi ruins 1000 feet below the canyon rim .We arrived at the canyon feeling hot and tired.

We had planned to stay at the free campsite with our R.V (recreational vehicle) near to the visitor centre, which is on a first come first served basis. We visited in early July and there was plenty of space, as this park doesn’t get crowed. The campsite is small and there is little shade. There is a basic toilet block with cold water. There are no showers so be prepared to rough it. As we had only planned to stay for 2 nights I felt I could cope! If you don’t fancy the campsite then there are several alternatives in the nearby Navajo town of Chinle. In addition there is the thunderbird lodge near to the free campsite, however with rooms at around 100 dollars a night it is not cheap and neither is it luxurious! The lodge does have a restraurant, but we had brought our own supplies for our short stay. There are several shops in the nearby town of Chinle but don’t expect anything upmarket!

Next morning we set off early to avoid the extreme heat of the day. We first called at the very helpful and interesting visitor centre adjacent to our campsite. Outside was a life-sized Native American Hogan, a hexagonal house built of logs and earth. From the visitor centre you can book tours into the canyon. Be aware that access to the floor of the canyon is restricted as this is sacred Navajo land and many Navajo families still live and farm here. You are permitted to hike down to the floor of the canyon on the white house ruins trail, but you are not permitted to leave the trail or hike elsewhere in the canyon without a Navajo guide. The visitor centre can arrange for a guide to accompany you either in your own 4-wheel drive vechicle, at a cost of about 15 dollars an hour, or you can join an organised tour. I would warn you here that these tours are in old trucks with little shade, the ones we saw leaving only had an old tarpaulin as cover, if you have small children this could be very dangerous in the searing heat. The truck tours cost around 125 dollars for 3 people with no child discount. Both the north and south rim of the Canyon can be toured by car. The north rim drive is 15 miles long and the south rim 16 miles long.

We decided to hike down on the white house ruins trail. Our first glimpse into the canyon was mind-blowing. The Canyon de Chelly is a very narrow canyon with sheer sandstone walls, which glow red in the summer sun. Far below we could hear the goat bells and horses on the farms 1000 feet below us. All around are deserted ancient cliff dwellings, the view was breathtaking. The path down to the Canyon floor is well defined but there are sheer drops so you will need to keep a close eye on your children. There are plenty of rocks to rest on, but beware of snakes and scorpions! It goes without saying that you should take plenty of water, hats and sun cream. The temperature on the canyon floor is several degrees higher that at the rim too. The floor of the Canyon is red sand and difficult to walk on. We passed several traditional Navajo farms and watched a Navajo woman in traditional long skirt herding her goats through the Canyon. The highlight for us was the white house ruins. These are the largest ruins in the canyon and consist of an 80 room built about 1050. The ruins are built 50 feet up into the cliff, but you can get up close enough to have a really good look. No one knows what happened to the original occupants, who left suddenly and disappeared without trace. The hike up was exhausting and although we thought we had plenty of water you can never have enough! There are plenty of places to stop and rest on shaded rocks and believe me we tried a lot of them! We all slept well that night. Before moving on I urge you to go back to the visitor centre and take in the displays depicting the Navajo history and how they were forced from their lands by the white American settlers. From The Canyon de Chelly we travelled 110 miles northwest to monument valley Navajo Tribal Park.

Monument valley
****************

The journey from the Canyon de Chelly was like travelling through a John Ford Western film set. The landscape looks unreal and is as if a sculptor has carved it, with red rock monoliths towering up. About 50 miles from Monument valley we noticed that the desert sand was blowing around. I spotted what looked like a large twister coming towards us at great speed, before I could really shout a warning we were plunged into darkness! I was terrified. My husband managed to brake and stop safely but visibility was nil, I have never experienced anything like it. Then just as soon as it had hit it moved away and the sun was there again!

Monument valley will be familiar to most people, as many Westerns have been filmed here. The road from Kayenta to monument valley was also where a famous car ad was filmed. Thelma and Louise was also partly filmed here. We had prebooked a campsite at Gouldings campground. The site was clean and well managed. There is a very small indoor pool, hot showers and a coin operated laundry. We paid 20 dollars a night to stay here. Another warning! We decided to have a barbeque as there are fire pits provided at each pitch. There is also a bench with fixed seats. My son had been sitting at the bench eagerly waiting for his sausage. I was standing next to him watching the amazing sunset, when I saw an hourglass shaped spider under the bench a few inches from his leg. Now I had made it my business to gen up on all poisonous beasties that live in the places we had planned to visit. As soon as I saw the tell tail red spot on its back I lifted my son away as I knew it was a black widow. Apparently these are common under benches and can deliver a very painful bite that can be serious for a child. Anyway we finished our food well away from the bench!

Gouldings also operate a motel a few miles from the campsite, which has fantastic views from the private balconies. I have stayed there on a previous occasion and had no complaints. However as it is the only lodge within the park it is best to book early. It is possible to book with Gouldings on line at www.gouldings.com. Both campsite and lodge are open year-round. We did eat at the restaurant at the lodge a few times and can really recommend it. The views over Monument valley as the sun sets on the red rock are worth paying for alone! The food was traditional Navajo and we all enjoyed it. There is no alcohol allowed on the reservation so be prepared to remain sober!

To really appreciate Monument valley you will need to pay for a Navajo guide, as travel into the backcountry is not allowed without one. It is possible to pay to drive the scenic 17-mile dirt road that leads from the visitor centre, but you don’t really get to appreciate this place and the road is really rough with lots of potholes and is definitely not an option with an R.V! We paid over 100 dollars for a half-day tour in a 4-wheel drive jeep and although expensive we felt it was well worth the money. We could have taken a group tour for less but wanted to be able to ask our guide to stop when we wanted to explore. The tour really allows you to appreciate how amazing this landscape is. Driving across the red desert sand dotted with sagebrush and passing through natural sandstone arches of huge proportions, standing next to weirdly shaped rocks with names like totem pole and elephant butte (for good reason) all carved by erosion over thousands of years, is a truly fantastic experience. We stopped and had a drink underneath more ancient ruins. We saw caves where the Navajo would hide when being hunted by the soldiers and came to understand more about the history of these people.

After the tour we stopped at the small museum in the grounds of Gouldings lodge. I would recommend you do this too. There are displays of many of the famous films made here. The museum also has an excellent video of the Navajo history. My 6 year old was fascinated and angry at how the Native Americans were treated and was keen to learn more, what a great way to learn history! I think you need at least 2 full days in the park to appreciate it, any less would feel rushed. The heat of Monument Valley does begin to feel debilitating after a few days and by this time we were really looking forward to travelling on to the north rim of the Grand Canyon. It is important to remember that the Navajo reservation is one hour behind the rest of Arizona.

The Grand Canyon
*****************
The journey from Monument valley to the North rim is about 200 miles and passes through Page and lake Powell. This is a good place to stock up on supplies if you are travelling by R.V as we were.

We stopped to have a picnic just beyond Lees Ferry at the Vermillion cliffs. Here we were lucky enough to see a California condor. These birds are incredibly rare and were reintroduced into this area several years ago and are doing well, if only I had had my camera ready!

We had visited the south rim of the Grand Canyon a few years ago and although it is undeniably breathtaking, we hated the crowds and felt the surrounding area resembled a holiday camp with an Imax theatre and helicopter rides over the rim. The south rim is only 10 miles from the north rim as the crow flies but is 215 miles by road. The north rim has far fewer facilities than the south rim and gets a lot less visitors. The north rim is only open from mid may until October due to heavy snowfalls.

It costs 20 $ to enter the park and the pass is good for 7 days. The ranger hut at the entrance to the park can advise you what; if any accommodation is available. We camped at the north rim campground, the only campsite within the park. I reserved our site via the Internet 5 months in advance as there are only 75 sites and they do get booked up. The site is very basic but there are flush toilets and coin operated hot showers at the entrance. There is also a laundry so you shouldn’t smell! The site is right on the edge of the canyon rim and we had only to walk for a minute to experience the breathtaking views. Pitches are generous with plenty of trees for shade. We paid 15$ for our site, well worth the money. Time for another warning! Every year there are fatalities here due to folk getting too close to the edge and losing their footing-don’t be one of them!

If you want to stay somewhere a little less basic then there are log cabins on the edge of the rim, or if you really want to sleep well then there is the Grand Canyon lodge, which looks very impressive and has a restaurant with a glass wall that overlooks the Canyon. The lodges and cabins can be booked through Xanterra park resorts. Tel-303/297/2757 (remember the time difference). If you want to eat in the restaurant then this needs to be pre booked too.

The north rim has numerous hiking trails if you are feeling energetic. When we were there last July the temperatures were in the 80’s so we didn’t venture too far down into the Canyon as the elevation and heat make you feel quickly exhausted. From the campsite it is an easy 2-mile walk along the rim of the canyon to the visitor centre where children can enrol to become a junior ranger. To qualify for a badge your child will need to complete a booklet, which helps them to learn about the geology and wildlife of the Canyon.
The highest point of the north rim is 8,803 feet at imperial point. This is probably the best place to take in the views and watch the sun set.

Every lunchtime and evening, at the campsite, there is a ranger led talk on a different topic such as the wildlife of the Canyon,. Some of these are especially aimed at children and my son really enjoyed them. At the end of the talk we got to toast marshmallows around the campfire too, for the children of course! The talks are free. I had expected to be plagued by mosquitoes here but was pleasantly surprised, they really were not a major problem. We stayed at the north rim for 3 nights and I was ready to move on by this time. I expect you feel you have had enough for now too! If you are planning a trip to Arizona then I would recommend you buy either the moon guide to Arizona or the Frommers guide, both are excellent.

 

...less