You might find me on the other side ... that's likeitis
You might find me on the other side ... that's likeitis
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After a somewhat gruelling 10/11 days touring the cites and towns of Andalucia, what better way to unwind and prepare for the return to 'real' life than a few days at the beach. With this in mind, we chose to stay in NERJA, a more sedate resort than some of the brasher options on the Costa del Sol, further to the west.
We traveled to Nerja by way of the mountain road from Granada and it's certainly an impressive way to arrive. Descending through spectacular rocky crags with only tantalising glimpses of the azure expanse of the Med whets the appetite suitably. Nerja is at the eastern extremity of Malagaprovince, 1-2 hours drive from Granada and 50km from Malaga airport.
Nerja is, by Spanish costa standards, relatively unspoilt and under-developed. No huge monolithic temples to the concrete God here - not yet, at least. It still has the feel of a real
Spanish town...so much for first impressions. The trouble is, it's very popular with Brits and therefore most of the bars and restaurants etc cater for that market. This is great if you're hankering for the full English breakfast, or perhaps a Sunday Roast washed down with a pint of Tetleys, but that's not my idea of Spanish living.
We stayed at the Hotel Perla Marina, on the Playa del Playazo to the west of the town. Nerja doesn't boast a long sweeping beach as such, but a collection of several beaches and coves dotted amongst a rugged, rocky coast. Playa del Playazo is probably the longest expanse of sand, but it's not very wide. However, it's fairly sedate and secluded and is ideal for some peace and quiet. It's still an easy stroll to the town centre, although that can be an adventure! There's a promenade leading from that beach but don't expect to make it all the way to the town centre on it. For some reason, it ends abruptly in a brick wall which is conveniently hidden around a corner so you don't notice till you arrive at a sudden dead-end. What's that about? A quick back-track and then through the maze of streets towards the Balcon de Europa - the jewel in Nerja's crown.
The Balcon de Europa is the heart of the town. It's a palm and plane tree-lined promenade that leads from the 17th century Church of El Salvador to a semi-circular viewpoint on the cliff-top. There are hotels and bars on one side, but any building on the other side is limited to some decorative arches - there are some spectacular sunsets from here and it can get quite busy around that time of day. Up until 1812 there used to be a fort here and that is evidenced by some ancient cannons standing sentinel over the seaward approaches to the town. This is where everyone gathers for the evening promenade, but as it's only a couple of hundred metres long, it's not much of a stroll. Still, the view's nice.
The main shopping streets lead off from this central point but I wasn't very impressed with what was on offer. In the main, the shopping seems geared more towards everyday items and not towards the huge influx of visitors. Don't get me wrong, I don't want to be falling over beach towels and postcards and cheap-n-nasty t-shirts and 'authentic' Spanish tat from Taiwan or all the other gruesome tourist paraphernalia. But on the other hand, I'm not looking for pots-n-pans and balls of wool and ironmongery when I'm on holiday either. Och, I'm a moaning faced git. The shopping couldn't have been all that bad - Mrs P managed to squeeze every last penny out of the credit card.
Similarly, eating and drinking opportunites weren't brilliant either. There were far too many English pubs (not to mention a bogfull of 'Irish' pubs - you know the type, paint it green, serve Guinness and begorrah, you're in business). I was on the look-out for Spanish 'themed' bars, but they were about as rare as good taste in Blackpool. There were some, but this is definitely a town that has it's fair share of ex-pat pubs. I suppose that's what some people want, a little slice of 'wherever' in the sun, but not me.
Still, much as I'd like to, you can't very well sit around in pubs all day and all night. So what is there to do in Nerja? Um, not an awful lot. At the eastern end of town, the Jardines de Europa are botanical gardens that slope down to Playa de Burriano. I'm sure they're very nice, but we didn't visit. About 3 km distant is the main attraction of the area - The Caves of Nerja. This is apparently the third most visited attraction in Spain - even without us making up the numbers. I'm afraid that stumbling around in caves isn't something that I find particularly appealing. Call me batty, but that's the way I am. My skin craves vitamin D.
A few miles inland, is the village of Frigliana, which we did visit. Frigliana has been voted the 'most beautiful village in Andalucia' several times. it's not hard to see why. Dazzlingly-white buildings crowd around steep and narrow streets. Floribunda in abundance only adds to the beauty. The village is perched on the side of a mountain and has fantastic views down over the valley towards the sea. There's not an awful lot to do here, but a few hours wandering the narrow streets followed by some tapas and a drink makes a welcome change from supping ale and chomping pies at the Rose & Crown.
All in all, I was a little disappointed with Nerja. I know hundreds of people who have visited here...well, a few to be brutally accurate, and they've always given it rave reviews. Anytime I've seen any pictures of the town, I've thought it pretty and unspoilt. But close-up, it didn't seem particularly pretty to me. I thought it was tired and a little run-down - like it had that end of season feeling, but this was early June! There were far too many ex-pats for me. It didn't feel very authentically Spanish - more like a blue-rinse colony.
In its favour, it's not brash, there are plenty of excellent beaches, the setting and the scenery is pretty good, and it felt fairly safe and friendly. It's probably a good place for families and those who like a less lively resort. And those who can't bear to leave dear old Blighty back home.
We had a good time there all the same. All we wanted was somewhere to spend our last three days where the most strenuous exercise we took was collecting pebbles on the beach. Somewhere where we had a reasonable choice of bars and restaurants. And somewhere that we could plan our next trip. Job done!
Šproxam2004
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Advantages: The all-year-round good weather, the scenery and the people Disadvantages: The fact that in 10 years time it will be far more developed than it is now.
Motley 26.03.2001 ·
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Review of Andalucia (Spain)