The island city of New York is, with a population of around eight million, the largest city in the United States. It is divided into five boroughs: Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens, the Bronx and Staten Island. It is one of the most beguiling places there is; life goes on at an incredible pace and one could even describe it as the epitome of everything that's wrong with America. However, spend a week here and the initial shock gives way to myth. The moment you see the twinkling lights of Manhattan's skyscrapers from your plane window, you realise that, no matter what your previous thoughts of the city, you really do have to be made of stone to not be moved by it all. Manhattan is the central island and the city's real core, and is where you would spend most of your time. It is fairly difficult to get lost in Manhattan; with the exception of the downtown area, all of the city's streets are laid out in a grid pattern; avenues run north-south, streets run east-west. If you ever get lost, find he nearest street intersection and read the avenue and the streets as you would a grid reference on a map.
In 1609 Hendrik Hudson arrived at Manhattan before sailing up the river that now bears his name. Although this river did not turn out to be the Northwest Passage that he had been commissioned to discover, he did establish the Dutch colony, New Amsterdam, which would slowly evolve into New York City. In 1626 the Dutch bought the entire of Manhattan Island from some native Indians for what would now be about $25. It was fortified over the next century, with a large wall running it's course along present day Wall Street. By 1790 its population had reached 30,000. Trade was opened to the Midwest by the Erie Canal, and the first wave of large-scale immigration in the mid nineteenth century helped to rocket the population to 750,000. Before the end of that century the four outer boroughs had all been absorbed into one mega-city, and with this we have New York City in its present format.
CITY GUIDE
ELLIS ISLAND is where any immigrant to the United States from 1850 was processed, and is now home to the MUSEUM OF IMMIGRATION. This is a fascinating excursion with lots of interesting exhibits, films and 'hands-on' experiences made all the more interesting to anyone whose ancestors themselves came through it, as you can trace their name through the computerised system. I did, and I found my great-grandfather's brother, who left Ireland at around the turn of the century. It may not be particularly suitable for small children, and it gets crowded at peak times, but otherwise it is definitely a worthwhile visit.
Situated on nearby LBERTY ISLAND is the STATUE OF LIBERTY. A gift from the French, Liberty was engineered by Gustav Eiffel and sculpted by Frederic Bartholdi, and although it represents goodwill between the French and American nations, it's fair to add that Bartholdi originally intended the statue for Alexandria, Egypt. There is a small museum and, of course, gift shop and restaurant, but ever since 9/11 the statue's head has been closed to the public. It is still well worth the visit to the island, especially as Circle Line run ferries from Battery Park, Manhattan to Ellis Island, then to Liberty Island and back to Manhattan for $7 adults, half that for children, and the islands themselves have no admission charge. The queues for the boat can take hours at peak times however, so be wary.
MANHATTAN
And so, we a brought on to Manhattan itself. The southernmost part of the island is the only ones to have been habituated before the grid pattern of streets was created, so it is the only part of the island with irregular, winding streets like those you would find in London, and with actual street names rather than numbers. It's much harder to navigate down there, so thank heavens it's small. The tip of the island is the financial centre, home of WALL STREET, and site of the WORLD TRADE CENTRE. Ground Zero is still present in its majority, although a few buildings of the new WTC complex have already shot up. The Freedom Tower, as it is dubbed, is yet to be completed with foundation work still in progress.
A touching museum on the East bank of ground zero commemorates the lives lost in the attacks of 2001, which is an absolute must-see if you pass through the area. It's excellent in its succinct and emotional portrayal of the events of 9/11, and I can guarantee you will be moved by your visit.
Nearby is Wall Street and the NEW YORK STOCK EXCHANGE. Tours around the exchange are possible although I did not go on one. Nearby is the FEDERAL RESERVE BANK, a castle-like building and so for good reason; eighty feet below ground level is most of the 'free' world's gold supply; 11,000 tonnes of the stuff, and although tours were possible, the bank's been closed since 9/11 like the Statue of Liberty.
On the east side of the island's tip is Brooklyn Bridge, one of New York's most famous and cherished landmarks, and a great place to go for a stroll. A tip; don't turn back to look at Manhattan until you've reached the midpoint of the bridge: the Financial District's giants clutter shoulder to shoulder through the spidery latticework, the East River pulses below and cars scream to and from Brooklyn. It's the best glimpse of a modern metropolis you can get, and not one to be missed. North from here lies CHINATOWN, LITTLE ITALY and the rest of the Lower East Side. With 100,000 residents, 7 Chinese newspapers, 12 Buddhist temples and over 150 restaurants, Chinatown is Manhattan's only truly thriving ethnic neighbourhood, and it's getting bigger and bigger. Nowhere else in town can you eat so much good food so cheaply, and just walking through its streets is a fascinating experience. To the west lies the small galleries and museums, too numerous to mention, of SOHO and GREENWICH VILLAGE.
As we go further north up the island of Manhattan, the street pattern evolves into the regular 90 degree intersections and numbered street names, and by 34th Street and Fifth Avenue we have found not only a prime shopping area, but also New York's most famous landmark: the EMPIRE STATE BUILDING. Heralding itself as the Eighth Wonder of the World, it stands 1472ft tall, its elegant stepped design masking how tall it actually is: only 100 feet shorter than the World Trade Centre was, masts not included. There are a few tourist-baits in it's base, such as 'virtual-flights', but these are expensive and mediocre, you'd be far better just spending your money on a trip to the top, although the view is actually bettered at the top of the Rockefeller centre. On a clear day you can see eighty miles, but due to the city's pollution it's more likely to be 10-20. Once you've back on ground level, head west and you'll come to MADISON SQUARE GARDENS, home of Knicks basketball and Rangers hockey teams. Even if you have no idea of the rules of the game, I would highly recommend trying to get tickets for either sport because its worth the money (which can be a lot) for the atmosphere alone.
From here, head north on 7th Avenue; where it intersects both 42nd Street and Broadway is TIMES SQUARE, which is not really any geometrical shape, but closest to a triangle. The pulsating neon lights suggest that it is not only the heart of the Theatre District but also of the city. It has been cleaned up extensively over the last decade, and so provides a family-friendly scene with something for everyone. Once you've had enough of this purely materialistic den, head east along 42nd Street. This must be about the only street in the world to have a whole musical named after it, and it's true; you really can do anything on 42nd Street. By the time we're at Park (4th) Avenue, we are outside Grand Central Terminal; it's only a train station but is well worth a look inside, there are even guided tours if you're so inclined.
Further east at Lexington Avenue is another of New York's historic monuments: the Chrysler Building. This is my favourite building in New York, with its silver-plated gargoyles and car motifs. The Chrysler Corporation moved out years ago, and the next owner let it deteriorate somewhat, but a new owner has pledged to keep it lovingly intact with an observation deck. On the edge of the island you'll find the familiar shape of the UNITED NATIONS building. Guided tours, although under funded and, well, boring, are available, but if you don't want to go in, just snap a few photographs by the flags, and that will be enough evidence of your visit.
Northwest of here, at around 50th Street and 5th Avenue, is the ROCKEFELLER CENTRE. A complex of buildings succeeding more than any other in the city as being completely self-contained yet still in harmony with its surroundings. Offices, cafes, TV studio, theatre, underground concourses, shopping centre, ice rink and roof-top gardens all interwoven in one of the best pieces of urban planning on the planet. It also offers the best, unhindered view of Manhattan that the city has to offer, despite being smaller then the ESB. This is a must-go attraction; there's something for everyone. I recommend the NBC studio tour, which, although expensive, is fascinating - particularly when able to enter the sets of 'Saturday Night Live' and 'Late Night with Conan O'Brien'.
Close by is the famous Central Park. Cliff-faced rocks, flowing hills, dark woods, meadow-like lawns and blue lakes, this is one true refuge from the hustle and bustle of the city, and really the only place in Manhattan where you can get lost. The park, although having its own police precinct, is dangerous after dark, although much safer now than in previous years. 840 acres big, it is, well, huge, and you could spend a whole day in there and still not see it all. I would recommend hiring bikes or roller-skates to get around fastest, and there are plenty of cafes and restaurants to refuel. Don't dismiss this as just like any old city park; it's really worth a visit, especially in the summer where it is the coolest part of the city.
Fifth Avenue spanning the middle part of the park is dubbed Museum Mile, and rightly so as at least nine museums and galleries are located there; highlights include the colossal METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART, the GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM, a homage to modern art contained in Frank Lloyd Wright's white helter-skelter bubble of a building, and the FRICK COLLECTION on 70th Street, one of the city's must-see attractions. Over on the west side of the park is the again colossal MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY and the LINCOLN CENTRE, home of the Metropolitan Opera, the New York Philharmonic Orchestra and a host of other smaller companies, and I would recommend trying to get seats for anything playing while you're there.
Above the park we are getting to the real summit of Manhattan, and with it, HARLEM. Harlem is America's most famous African-American neighbourhood, and although few visitors savour its attractions, it is worth a trip up there, although I would recommend a guided tour before you venture out on your own. Right up in the reaches of Manhattan, above 190th St., there is the CLOISTERS which is the medieval wing of the Metropolitan Museum. And with that, we have seen all of Manhattan's main attractions.
FOOD
New Yorkers have a reputation for liking their food, and looking at what's available in their home city this is not much of a surprise. There are over 15,000 eateries in New York, and due to the large immigrant population you will find restaurants that serve world cuisine in some cases better than it's found in its origin country. One thing I do recommend - try a genuine New York breakfast. Prepare to be grilled on how you want your eggs in a quick-fire question round, and once you figure out what you like, you'll probably have no need for lunch. There is, of course, the usual McDonald's/Burger King chains, serving the same thing as they do everywhere else in the world, but with such diversity, (comparative) value for money any sheer volume of food, you hopefully shouldn't have to resort to these.
TRANSPORT
The New York Subway is a tourist attraction in itself. Dirty, noisy, intimidating and initially incomprehensible, it is the fastest and most cost-effective manner in which to get around the city. 3.6 million people use it every day, and it is much safer than it used to be, something to be comforted by. Broadly speaking, routes run either uptown and downtown, following the great avenues, converging as the island itself does in the financial district before going on to the outer boroughs. Cross-town routes are very limited. Any subway journey costs a flat-fare of $2 return and there are no zoning charges like the London Underground. Buses are much simpler to use, and a cheap version of the sightseeing buses, ideal to help you get used to the city. They are again $2, and you can use a subway ticket to pay for them. The famous yellow taxis are also a (more expensive) possibility, although be sure that you get a real, licensed one rather than a 'gypsy cab', which are rarely yellow and tout for business primarily at tourist points. You should be comforted to know that the city is currently having a crackdown against such crime, so hopefully you won't see to many of these around.
SHOPPING
Being the consumer capital of the world, NYC is, of course, a great place to shop. Manhattan's premier shopping street is Fifth Avenue, which is home to exclusive, designer and department stores. Macy's, the largest shop in the world, is on 6th Avenue right next to the Empire State Building. Other famous New York shopping institutions include Bloomingdale's on Lexington and 59th St., the Rockefeller Centre and Tiffany's on 5th and 57th St. You will find many bargain-basement electrical stores around Times Square, but make sure whatever you buy will work back home. This is not even scratching the surface, and New York can cater for every possible taste, preference, creed and perversity - and in a lot of cases 24 hours a day, too. You will find what your looking for here. Always check comparative prices on the Internet before purchasing goods however, as there are hundreds of rip-off stores waiting to strip an eager tourist of their money.
ACOMMODATION
Accommodation in the city is a major cost. Most hotels will charge well over $100 a night, not to mention taxes tacked on to that. If you have a choice between staying with friends/family or in a hotel, you'd be silly to opt for the hotel. However, as ever, if you hunt around both while you're there and beforehand, on the net (e.g. laterooms.com), you should be able to get a decent double room for little over $50. For example, I got a double-double (4 beds) room in a 4* Holiday Inn (in August) for £80 a night - there was even a swimming pool on the roof, so it is possible to be accommodated comfortably for a reasonable amount, just look on the net. Failing this there are plenty of hostels around the city that offer beds as little as $15 (dormitory accommodation) or YMCA/YWCA double rooms from $50. Shop around, book ahead, you're likely to stumble open something to suit your needs and budget.
CONCLUSION
New York City is certainly my favourite city. Many American cities have very little character, and feel as if they were all built at the same time by the same people; a sad product of globalisation. New York has none of this - I don't think anyone can ever accuse the city of having no character. NYC is one of the places on this earth that everyone should visit at some point in their lifetime. There really is something for everyone - kids, teenagers, adults and grandparents alike. Although it is not 100% wheelchair-friendly, it is getting there, and doing much better than many other cities.
It is, however, like London, one of the most expensive places to live in and visit in the world, certainly more so than any other place in the US, and you should budget this in when planning your visit. New Yorkers have a reputation for being unfriendly but I found this not to be the case at all. Often, quite on the contrary, people said hello on the street and offered to help with directions, which was lovely. Although we witnessed a lot of things while we were there, I don't think I saw a single mugging or break-in, and it really is a much safer place to visit than before. It instils a sense of togetherness and community upon you, which is remarkable for a city of its size and something i don't think I'll ever recognise of London. Even more of a reason to visit for yourself!
This review is also pablished on Dooyoo under the username: Hadouken
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