Probably the most famous city in the world, New York is a popular tourist destination for those visiting the United States, and is just an eight hour flight from London. Comprised of Manhattan, along with the four outer boroughs of Queens, Brooklyn, Staten Island and the Bronx, it's almost impossible to take everything in on a single visit, and a return trip will be essential. I recently spent six days in the city, and although we didn't venture outside Manhattan (except to get to and from the airport), I'm already convinced I want to return again soon. The many tourist attractions and sights are far too numerous to list in entirety - indeed, there's a lot I wish I could've seen, had our stay been longer - but it's safe to say there's something for everyone here.
GETTING THERE
New York is served by three airports; JFK and Newark for international flights, and La Guardia for domestic travel. We flew from London Heathrow to JFK with American Airlines, and despite hearing stories of imposing immigration officials and long queues at customs, we were actually outside within twenty minutes of leaving the plane. Whether this is a typical experience, I cannot say, but it was certainly a pleasant surprise. Assuming you're staying in Manhattan, you can easily get a taxi from the airport to anywhere in Manhattan for a fixed charge of $35 (plus a toll fee) from JFK. We decided to get the airport shuttle bus instead, which costs $13 each for a single trip to either Grand Central or Penn Station, where another bus will take you to your hotel (this cost us an additional $5). If you want to get to your hotel quickly then it's probably best to get a taxi, but as we had a bit of time to kill we opted for the longer journey. When getting back for your return flight though, I definitely advise a taxi unless you don't mind waiting for the bus to drive around Manhattan picking everyone up from their respective hotels!
WHERE TO STAY
Staying in any hotel in Manhattan will be fairly expensive, but if you look around you should be able to find something within your budget. We stayed at the Howard Johnson Plaza on Eighth Avenue and 52nd Street, paying around $160 a night for a reasonable-sized twin room with en-suite bathroom and satellite television. Check out www.totalstay.com for a wide selection of hotels; then check their individual websites for potentially cheaper prices - we booked direct through www.hojo.com for a small saving. I definitely recommend this hotel if you want to stay in mid-town Manhattan; it's only a ten-minute walk downtown to Times Square or a similar distance up Eighth Avenue to Central Park.
GETTING AROUND THE CITY
Getting around Manhattan is remarkably easy thanks to the subway system, numerous bus routes, and of course, the ubiquitous yellow taxi cabs. Yes, they really are as widespread as you've been led to believe by film and television! The subway lines mostly run North-South, so if you're travelling a reasonable distance in an up or downtown direction, they really are the fastest way of getting around. A single journey will set you back $1.50, or alternatively a one-day 'MetroCard' costs just $4 and allows unlimited travel on the subway and bus. Just buy one from the machines found in most stations, although do make sure you have a subway map beforehand... obviously check which line you need, but also whether you need an express or local service (express trains only stop at certain stations). We only used the subway during the day and it was perfectly safe, but if you are travelling late at night, it's probably best to stick to the 'off-peak waiting areas' marked in yellow on the platforms.
For shorter journeys, or when travelling at night, taking a taxi may be a more attractive option. You really shouldn't have any trouble finding one - just look out for a taxi with an illuminated sign and hail it over. Fares are comprised of a $2 set charge, plus 30 cents for each fifth of a mile and 20 cents for each minute waiting in traffic. If you're travelling during the night, the fare will rise by 50 cents.
We didn't actually make use of the city's bus network during our stay (except for the airport shuttle service), so I can't really give you any advice here. Ask at your hotel if you're unsure which route to take.
Having mentioned all these methods of transport, I must now say the best way of exploring New York is by foot, and if you're walking anywhere North of 14th Street, you really can't get lost. Avenues run North-South and are numbered First through Twelfth (First being the furthest East, Twelfth being the furthest West); Streets run East-West and increase in number the further North you go. South of 14th Street, the layout deviates from this system, and you may find you'll need to refer to a map to find your way around. One peculiarity you should be aware of is that when crossing a road (after waiting for the 'WALK' sign to light up), traffic can still turn around a corner, although they do have to give way to you. So, don't be alarmed if you see a car coming towards you as you're halfway across the road - it (probably) hasn't jumped the lights!
ATTRACTIONS
- Statue of Liberty & Ellis Island
Ferries from Battery Park at the southern tip of Manhattan depart every 20 minutes to both of these "must-see" New York attractions. Although you can't actually go inside the statue at present (additional security measures were still being constructed during November 2002), the views of Manhattan from Liberty Island are spectacular. Ellis Island is equally impressive, and offers even more to the visitor, due its historical significance as the city's centre for immigration until the 1950's. The main immigration building has been completely renovated and now acts as a museum detailing every aspect of the immigration process, including a history of the island and how it eventually fell into disrepair. One area we didn't get a chance to see is the American Family Immigration History Centre, which would be of particular interest to those looking for information on family members who settled in America between 1892 and 1924. Allow yourself at least a couple of hours to take everything in, but remember not to miss the last ferry back to Manhattan, which leaves at 5.15pm. If you don't get time to see everything, remember to check the museum's website when you get home, at: www.ellisisland.org
Round-trip tickets for the ferry cost $10, and can be purchased from Castle Clinton in Battery Park. For further information, see: www.statueoflibertyferry.com
- Brooklyn Bridge, Pier 17 and Wall Street
If you get a chance, the sight of Manhattan from the middle of the Brooklyn Bridge is supposed to be phenomenal. Unfortunately it was raining heavily the day we were there, so instead we settled for the impressive views of the bridge from Pier 17, near the South Street Seaport. If you like seafood, there are plenty of cafés and restaurants in this area, and Wall Street is just a short walk away should you wish to see it. The New York Stock Exchange is currently closed to visitors (again, presumably for security reasons), but the grandeur of the buildings in the Financial District are definitely worth seeing nevertheless.
- Former site of the World Trade Centre ("Ground Zero")
The same day we saw the Brooklyn Bridge, we also made a stop at the former site of the World Trade Centre - the rain and overcast weather only adding to the sombre mood of the place. There really isn't a lot to see now, as redevelopment has already started in the area, although information boards have been put up on the fences around the site. An uneasy atmosphere still exists as everyone stood reading them in silence, although one positive aspect was the absence of tacky souvenir stalls (that I was half-expecting to see).
- Empire State Building
One of the highlights of my trip was definitely the view from the walkway near the top of the Empire State Building. Once again the tallest building in New York, the sight of the city illuminated at night is truly spectacular, and well worth the $10 entrance fee. Certainly not worth the additional $9 is the 'Skyride' experience, which is entirely missable. Buy your tickets from the ticket office in the building's basement, and then take two elevators up to the 86th floor (changing from one to the other on the 80th), where you'll find the outside walkway/viewing platform and a gift shop. Up-to-date information on prices and opening hours can be found at the building's website: www.esbnyc.com
- Times Square
One of the most famous sights of modern New York is this intersection of Broadway, Seventh Avenue and 42nd Street - a dazzling amalgamation of bright lights, busy traffic and bustling crowds, best seen at night. Named after the offices of the New York Times (originally housed in the Times Tower to the south of the square), the area is in the heart of the city's main theatre district as well as being home to several chain stores and restaurants. Tickets to many of the Broadway shows can be purchased from a stand at the north of Times Square, although to avoid the rush it's advised to start queuing early. Wrestling fans will also be interested in visiting the WWE New York store and restaurant/bar (although note you'll need to pay an entrance fee to the bar when live events are being broadcast). An EasyEverything internet café is just around the corner, and if you're feeling really unoriginal (or just in a hurry), there's also a McDonalds close by.
- Central Park
Situated north of 58th Street between Fifth and Eighth Avenues, Central Park is an oasis in the middle of the city. Arrive early and you can take in much of the southern half of the park, before stopping for lunch at one of the many street-side cafés on the Upper West Side. Make sure you pick up a map from the visitor centre, as the park is definitely big enough to get lost in, and marvel at the sight of the city's skyscrapers towering over the lush green landscape. During the winter there's an ice-rink in the south-east corner, whilst further north there is plenty to see - the Metropolitan Museum of Art to the east, Belvedere Castle and the Great Lawn towards the centre, and Strawberry Fields to the west of the park near 72nd Street. If you're want to see the whole of Central Park then you'll probably need an entire day, so allow yourself plenty of time!
- Still got time for more?
A few other places you may wish to visit include Radio City Music Hall (www.radiocity.com), home of the famous Rockettes; the Rockefeller Centre with it's outdoor ice rink on Fifth Avenue (www.rockefellercenter.com); or the grandeur of Grand Central Station. Free tours of the latter are available on Wednesdays (the only day we weren't in the city!), but it's still worth a visit at any time purely to see the impressive architecture. I was disappointed not to be able to recreate the chase scene from Carlito's Way though - that area seemed to be ticket-only! ;)
EATING AND DRINKING
You'll have absolutely no trouble finding a place to eat or drink in New York - there's a bar, pub or restaurant just about everywhere you look! A good idea is to buy a guidebook and choose one of the places it recommends, depending on what you're looking for. No matter what your taste, there should be somewhere that caters for you! One thing to pay attention to is whether a restaurant takes credit cards (many don't) - the highly recommended John's Pizzeria in Greenwich Village for instance, is cash only, so go prepared! Tips are expected and a rough guide in restaurants is to double the 8.25% sales tax that will appear on your bill. We generally found bars to be pretty expensive; two beers setting us back $12 in one pub, plus a tip on top of that. Obviously prices will vary from venue to venue, but don't expect it to be cheap anywhere! One other thing... remember to carry your passport with you if there's even a chance you look under 21!
FURTHER INFORMATION
There are plenty of websites providing information for visitors to New York, as well as numerous guidebooks including the 'Rough Guide' and 'Lonely Planet' series. Go for a pocket-sized book with a map and you'll easily be able to carry it around with you.
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