The New Years Day concert from Vienna was magnificent - now listening a third time on the i-Player
The New Years Day concert from Vienna was magnificent - now listening a third time on the i-Player
Member since:21.07.2003
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Recently, I've read several reviews on my home city, Newcastle upon Tyne. It's a place I've always been quite touchy about; when I went away to university I was quite defensive on the subject because I feared that people would think less of me because of where I came from. I think part of it was to do with inverted snobbery, I looked down on my hometown, especially when I moved away and saw other places.
I have to say, though, that at the time I left, Newcastle was a much different city to the one it is today. Each time I came home, though, I found things were changing for the better, although by this time I had decided to be contrary and bemoaned the loss of the things I'd hated in the first place.
When I left, Newcastle was a very down to earth place. Most people you met were from the city, in contrast to today as many companies are relocating to the north east because of ever rising costs in London and the south east. This has resulted in an increase in the number of people with a decent disposable income and retailers, house builders and leisure companies have taken advantage of this.
Instead of shabby but homely pubs, the city centre is now awash with trendy bars, most of them run by chains. These are essentially places to be seen and have few seats so you end up just standing around all night.
Although this is not my idea of a good night out, I must say that the interior of some of these bars is fantastic and puts the quality of such establishments on a par with ones in the capital. If this is the kind of place you enjoy, I would recommend a couple: Stereo is situated just off the quayside near the Law Courts and offers fantastic views of the Millennium (Blinking Eye) Bridge and gets in some great guest DJs; Apartment is a bar/club/restaurant on Collingwood Street near the Central Station is very new and is fast gaining a reputation as the hippest place in town, with it's VIP
room and the most expensive bottle of champagne in the city at around 900 pounds! Coco V, just opposite the station is worthy of a mention because of it's amazing North African inspired decor.
If you prefer the more traditional type of pub, there are still a few left. The Bridge, situated at the Newcastle end of the High Level Bridge is a good pub with a nice but small beer garden overlooking part of the old city walls; the Trent House near the Royal Victoria Infirmary is traditional in style, but is frequented by arty/studenty types and is popular because of its free jukebox and extensive range of beers and spirits, many of which you may not find in other pubs. The Duke of Wellington, on High Bridge, is my haunt and as well as a friendly atmosphere, it can boast an excellent, frequently changing range of guest ales.
Newcastle has quite a good selection of restaurants and I am glad to say that new places are opening all the time. For some years we seemed only to have cheap and cheerful pizza joints but there you can now chose from food from all over the globe.
Blue Coyote, oppposite the fire station in the centre of town offers Mexican favourites such as burritos and enchilladas as well as some Creole/Cajun dishes such as two kinds of gumbo and blackened fish, a great selection of more unusual pizzas (the North African one with lamb, goats cheese, harissa, and apricots is to die for) and a selection of delicious tagines.
Peruvian food can be had in the restaurant at the Cooperage pub on the quayside (an ancient half-timbered building); superb tapas and paella is on the menu at El Torero (The Side, by the quayside) and there are others serving Thai, Chinese, Indian, Greek and global cuisine, as well as plenty of pubs serving locally produced food.
I could talk forever about all the restaurants and bars but I'm sure you want to know what else Newcastle has to offer.
Newcastle lost out earlier this year to Liverpool for the honour of being named European City of Culture for 2008. This was a heavy blow for the city which has, in recent years, spent much on raising it's cultural profile by strenghtening it's existing features and developing new visitor attractions and staging prestigious events.
The Centre for Life is a fairly new place and is especially popular with families. One of the new breed of "Interactive Museums" the centre houses exhibits with a science/human biology leaning and there are loads of exhibits which require you to press buttons. As well as the exhibitions which are open to the public, the Centre is also of particular importance because of the research work which is done there around genetics and human reproduction.
Nearby the Discovery Museum is similar in that it encourages children to investigate what is around them and to participate whilst visiting the musuem.
The city's main art gallery the Laing is situated near the main shopping area (more about that later!) and houses a permanent collection of work including some delightful pre-Raphaelite pieces and lots of pieces by local artists. The gallery also stages touring exhibitions. The Laing is situate on one of Newcastle's newest and most controversial art installations, the Thomas Heatherwick designed "Blue Carpet". This is made from finely broken up Harveys Bristol Cream botttles - you know, the blue ones, - with extra shimmery red and green flecks. On very sunny the glass tiles sparkle magnificently and on wet days the colour becomes deeper and more intense. It's not loved by many Geordies but I like it alot.
Moving down to the quayside and you are met by the sight of the seven bridges which span the River Tyne. If you go onto one of the higher bridges you will get the best views. The newest bridge is of course the Millennium Bridge or the (Blinking) Eye as it is known by the locals. The bridge has won many awards for design, architecture and engineering and it's not hard to see why. The opens and tilts (like the opening of an eye) to allow boats to pass through to go up or down the river. It's a pedestrian/cyclist only bridge and it links the Newcastle quayside area with the new Baltic Quays on the Gateshead side.
I will briefly mention the Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art, even though, strictly speaking, it is in Gateshead, not Newcastle and I intend to write something on Gateshead in it's own right at some stage. The Baltic is housed in a converted warehouse buliding and is one of the city's most striking buildings. It's red, orange and gold bricks are very striking and there is an amazing glass elevator on the outside of the building which affords spectacular views of the river and the city. There is also a fantastic viewing platform at the top of the building if lifts aren't your thing!
But what of the contents? The Baltic has been the subject of fierce controversy - in Tyneside and beyond. The art critic, Brian Sewell, was incensed that the Baltic should get the Cobra exhibition before it wnet to Newcastle - apparently the city and it's people were to devoid of culture and taste to appreciate it! Locals, too, have been critical of the works which have been displayed so far. The Centre does not have a permanent collection. It is a an exhibition space which shows work by local and international artists whether that be sculpture, paintings, photographs, the moving image, etc. The works can be quite challenging and it's worth checking out a programme of forthcoming events if you especially want to visit the Baltic or you may be disappointed.
Just behind the Baltic you will see a curious, curved glass roofed building, not unlike an armadillo. This is the Sage Centre for Music, due to open in the late summer of 2004, even in the construction stages it is stunning. Further along the quayside, towards the Centre for Life, the Centre for the Childrens' Book is also well underway for opening in 2005.
The Hancock Musuem, near the University, is another popular attraction and covers natural history and local ancient history. Just out of town is the Biscuit Factory (no prizes for guessing what this building used to be!) which shows contemporary local art (paintings, glass, ceramics, etc) much of which is for sale. There is also a fine restaurant in the form of Barn Again, which serves modern global cuisine.
Sport is one of the citizens greatest passions and Newcastle United Football Club is at the heart of the city. You can't miss the impressive football ground, St. James Park and it is possible to join a guided tour if you wish.
As well as football, we have rugby union side, the Newcastle Falcons - home team of World Cup hero Jonny Wilkinson - who play just outside the city near the airport and Gateshead Stadium just across the river hosts major athletics championships - the region has a strong athletics tradtion and we've always backed our home grown talent - Steve Cram, Jonathan Edwards, Brendan Foster to name but a couple.
Those who still think that this is a cultural backwater should know that the Royal Shakespeare Company comes for a six week season each year and that the city is home to Northern Stage, Northern Opera and the Northern Symphonia. The Theatre Royal plays hosts to high profile touring productions and artists and the City Hall and Newcastle Opera House cover a wide variety of music.
The two universities and the vast Telewest Arena host all kinds of bands and this year Newcastle has seen the likes of Electric Six, The Darkness, Simply Red, UB40, The Flaming Lips, Placebo, the Stereophonics and many more.
Slightly further out of the city is the beautiful and dramatic Northumberlandcoast and, inland, an increasingly popular attraction is Alnwick Castle with it's marvellous new water gardens and the site where much of the Harry Potter movies were filmed.
There is plenty for history enthusiasts to see along Hadrians Wall and this year saw the official opening of a path which now allows walkers to follow the entire length of the Wall.
Those less inclines to put on the walking boots may prefer to check out the city's shoppig facilities. Geordies love to shop! Newcastle can boast a modern centre in Eldon Square and Northumberland Street which has all the big names and there are some lovely independent shops in the extension of Eldon Square, Eldon Garden.
Go down to High Bridge for some cool clubbing and skaters fashions, great independent record shops and Attica, just round the corner which sells fantastic vintage clothes and furnishings.
Serious shoppers head for the Metrocentre across the river where you can do loads of shopping under one roof, see a film, grab a bite to eat and deposit the kids in Metroland, an indoor theme park, where they are supervised by trained staff.
So you still think it's "grim up north"?
I did say at the beginning that Newcastle is in danger of disappearing up it's own backside. I really do think that - the city's leaders are so obsessed with modernising the city that they are in danger of ripping it's heart out. What makes Newcastle a special place is it's differences - it's the same for any great town or city. We don't need to have bars and clubs that look like those in every other city just to compete.
Do come to Newcastle and make your own mind up. Look further than the glitzy bars and you'll see why the city is so unique.
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Nice review!! I live in Newcastle, been here for 18 months and love it to pieces, I'm happier here than I have been living down South. I too love the fact that Newcastle is an ever changing city but I see what you mean about it maybe getting a bit to up it's own arse!! Mind you there's still alot that needs to be done in the inner cities and I hope these areas start to get more attention soon. Cheers! Nicky
eve6kicksass 31.05.2004 11:47
Great op on another area of England I just have to check out...Thanks...Chris xxx
mundugnus 02.05.2004 16:47
Thanks for the comprehensive review, I'm headed to Newcastle soon and its good to know whats what before I get there.
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