Can you tell that I am yearning? I haven’t had a holiday in so long I’m dwelling on past adventures for an inordinate amount of time. I want to get on a plane, I want to go somewhere hot, somewhere interesting and exotic, somewhere new to explore.
But all I’m getting this year is five days in Torquay, although I’m really looking forward to it, (I have jigsaw at the ready, as it is law that you must do a jigsaw when staying in a caravan)
This time last year I was still brown(ish) and flush from a wonderful two weeks in Cyprus, the highlight of those two weeks was, for me anyway, a visit to Nicosia.
Roughly in the centre of the island and over looked by the impressive Kyrenia mountain range, Nicosia is fairly easy to get to from anywhere on the island (the Cypriot side anyway, I couldn’t tell you about the Turkish side). There are frequent bus services from all major towns to the city.
To cut down on hassle my fella and I decided to catch a coach tour from our resort, Limassol for the princely sum of 9 Cypriot pounds. The provision of a tour guide on the way, pointed out interesting places we passed, made this a far less boring way to travel.
The first thing we noticed when stepping out of the wonderfully air-conditioned coach was the heat. It was HOT! In fact it wasn’t just hot it
was EFFING HOT! The air smelled burnt, like biscuits that have been cook for ever so slightly too long. The average daily temperature in Nicosia at the time we went (early August) is around 40c. However unlike the clammy humidity of our resort this was a very dry heat and if you kept in the shade it was actually quite comfortable.
We were parked outside of the four hundred-year-old Venetian walls, where modern Nicosia and the ancient city meet. The main shopping area is within the old city walls, a short walk in the shade. Walking past the obligatory old men spending the day in a park benches drinking coffee and eating olives any route through narrow streets will eventually lead you to the centre of town.
Down narrow, ancient streets an array of little boutiques, tourist shops and sellers of the famous Lefakra lace greet you in a manner face more pleasantly than most tourist resorts I have been to. You can buy almost anything here from lovely hand made goods, trinkets lace and rugs to the traditional cheep tourist garb.
We bought a small piece of lace (for my mum) from a shop which was little more than a plaster room, sold buy a wizened old man, which his equally wizened old wife making the lace outside the shop. We browsed, without hassle, through all the little shops slowly working our way through to the main commercial area.
The main commercial area is pretty impressive; it has every shop you would expect from a medium sized British town centre, with a few unique shops spread in between. I had a look in Next, Marks & Spencer and Benetton. I scowled through the window of McDonalds.
Definitely worth a visit is the eight storey high Woolworth’s. Now, Woolworth’s in Cyprus is a whole different kettle of fish to the one we get in the UK, this is a large department store with a supermarket on the lower ground floor, make-up and perfume on the ground floor and various men’s and women’s apparel on the upper floors. The last three floors or so have no shops, but lead to a viewing gallery on the 8th floor. The gallery provides a wonderful opportunity to view the entire city, most notably the Turkish side for the nominal entry fee of 5O cents. Be warned that the gallery can get quite bust at times and people will jostle for use of the binocular and the lifts will be full (we climbed up the stairs, oh dear, no a good idea)
So, what to look at from the viewing gallery? Well the most obvious thing is the Turkish side of Nicosia. Nicosia is now the only city in Europe that is militarily divided. The divide began in the 1974 when Turkish troops invaded Cyprus and occupied around a third of the island, the occupation is still in place and Nicosia is divided right down the middle. From the viewing gallery it is easy to see the Turkish flag emblazoned in the mountainside as a big up yours to Greek Cyprus, with binoculars you can also see the smaller moon and star of Islam underneath. Displays around the room provide a history of the city, and it various landmarks. A sound display recounts the Turkish invasion in a number of different languages (however there is more than a little bias, as you would expect)If you want to see the divide close up head down the main high street on Nicosia and it just stops. Cut right through the middle of the street of the UN buffer zone that divides the city. Anywhere else in Nicosia if you get to close to the buffer zone a rather irate soldier will purposefully shoo you away. In the main high street a rather attractive young soldier (hmm tasty) will show you up to the viewing platform and pose for a photo with you. They don’t, however, allow you to photograph over the buffer zone itself; the tasty young guard will be quite forceful about this one point.
The viewing platform is a small metal climbing frame which allows you to look out over the buffer zone, which it about 25 yards wide, into the Turkish side of Nicosia. Occasionally you can see a glimpse of Turkish soldiers patrolling the other side. The bit in the middle, the buffer zone, is fascinating, left exactly as it was on the day of the invasion. Now crumbling away you can still see a scrap of curtain up the window and a chair in one of the buildings, its really rather eerie.
Nest to the platform is a small brick built shelter type thing that houses a memorial to the people who were killed and went missing during the invasion. Powerful pictures of people who haven’t been seen since 1974 and of the destruction caused at the time tug at the heart strings, reminding people that the buffer zone is not simply a tourist attraction but a real tangible thing, which many Cypriots feel a threat from even now. There is a book for the people who pass through sign; most of the messages in the book are firmly planted on the side of the Greek Cypriots. I personally don’t know enough about the whole thing to make such judgements, I sure the people on the Turkish side have there own version, but I signed to show I was there.
After a spot of lunch it was time to go home. Eateries aren’t as plentiful as you may find in more dedicated tourist resorts but finding somewhere with good food and reasonably priced posed no problem (although we had to wolf it down because we’d run out of time).
If you do go to Cyprus, visit Nicosia, because I don’t really think you can actually say you seen the island unless you do. While it does get a fair influx of tourists I don’t feel it has been spoiled by it. I didn’t get to see half as much as there is on offer, but there’s not a lot you can do in a day, I would definitely go back, if I ever break my rule of never going to the same place twice, this would be the place.
A couple of good site to visit:
Giving a short modern history of the island: www.cosmosnet.net/azias/cyprus/nicosia Lots of interesting places to visit in Nicosia (Most of which I missed): www.kypros.org/Cyprus/nicosia
Now, I’d better start a little research on Torquay…….
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Hey, great review!! Love Cyprus, (although I guess I am slightly biased actually being from the island...lol) It really sucks that Cyprus is still divided, its sad cuz both the greek and the turkish cypriots want everything to go back to how it used to be, when we lived quite happily together, before al the manipulation and crap started from certain goverments and stuff....("~).....ooo it's gets me so riled....ehem, anywho, it's a great island and I can't wait to go this summer!!
CherryBlossom 21.09.2002 11:43
I used to have a pen friend that lived in Nicosia. ~Sharon
pixiedon 31.08.2002 12:51
Ahhh sun. What is that? I think we used to have Woolworths like that - a friend said she used to make sausages at Woolies!
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