For me Costa Rica was the Nicoya Peninsula. After making the journey up from San Jose via bus & ferry then bus again arriving in Montezuma at sunset was a sight for sore eyes. Lush jungle lines the long sandy beach. The sea here is rough with a heavy, dumping shore break, so not great for swimming. The only swimming pool (in 1999) is found nestled at the end of the beach at El Sano Banano. The small village of Montezuma is picturesque & friendly with a scattering of restaurants, bars & shops. The cleanliness of this resort is thanks, largley in part, to the American contingent who have made this place their home & in doing so have helped locals conserve a beautiful corner of Costa Rica.
Venture an hour or two up the coast (you can hitch a ride in a pick up from the main town) & will find yourself at Malpais. This place is an excellant little surf spot, totally off the beaten path. You can find rooms to rent in people's homes on the road set back from the beach for reasonable rates. Not a place for nightlife Malpais boasts, at best, a few surf shacks run by ex Cali surfers who shape & rent boards and a scattering of restaurants/cafés along a main road. There is no village centre & things get pretty quiet at night. Not much shade on the beach but an awesome, clean break
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