I presume that everyone has heard of the Norfolk Broads which has it’s own National Park status through the “Broads Authority”. The Authority was set up by an Act of Parliament in 1988 and this body was needed to prevent deterioration of the natural character of the area.
Lying in between Norwich and Great Yarmouth the Broads are in a “flat” area of East Anglia and were created by peat digging. They themselves are actually shallow lakes of various size with interconnecting waterways totalling over 120 miles, that are arguably best seen by boat. Balancing the needs of nature and the many users of the Norfolk Broads is a difficult task as they attract fishermen, birdwatchers, walkers, cyclists, sailors and other boat users who all have conflicting demands.
I love the Norfolk Broads and have spent a lot of time in the area, especially in my younger days, as I have relatives living there. I can’t say that I’ve been on every length of waterway, but hope my experiences cover enough of the broads to give a good flavour of how interesting they are.
River Waveney
The Norfolk
/ Suffolk county boundary runs through the broads and Oulton Broad is in Suffolk and only a few miles from the most easterly town in England of Lowestoft. Often promoted as where “broadland meets the sea” Oulton Broad is actually separated from the “salt side” (or the sea side) by a lock. Hire boats do not go through this lock which is actually rarely used. Although tidal, Oulton Broad is actually affected by water flowing in and out at Great Yarmouth along the River Waveney over 10 miles away, so the vertical tidal range is significantly less than at Lowestoft. Many boaters struggle to recognise this tidal nature of the broads and this can cause difficulty when mooring up. I have regularly been amused at boats which moor up at high tide which then start leaning as their mooring ropes tighten with the ebb tide.
Oulton Broad has a commercial aspect with to it with development on most sides. At the eastern end of the Broad there are shops, pubs and eating establishments that get busy in the summer. I like Everetts Park which borders the broad and gives great views of the sailing during the regatta in August. This is also the place where you can watch powerboat racing on most Thursdays during the summer. Most people find the fast and noisy race meetings a surprise at this location, but I have enjoyed seeing the boats fly by whilst on Everitts Park.
Upstream of Outlon Broad on the River Waveney is the town of Beccles and at the head of navigation you’ll find the Geldeston Lock Pub. This wonderful public house has free moorings and is accessed by road along a track. Although remote, the pub offers all the usual facilities and I was taken there as a younger child. The isolation is typical of many locations on the broads and is what makes this place unique.
River Thurne
Tidal issues are particularly highlighted at the original Potter Heigham Bridge on the River Thurne where high tide levels often make it impossible to access Hickling Broad, Somerton Broad and Horsey Mere for days on end. Unfortunately, many boat users don’t, or won’t, take the advice of not passing through this low and narrow arch and collide with or get stuck against the bridge. Of course it is tempting to negotiate this historic structure, but the river current can be strong and deceptive. When the tide is right this is great place to spend a few hours and if you feel brave there are boats for hire.
If you do get through the bridge at Potter Heigham then Horsey Mere and Wind Pump, run by the National Trust, are really worth a visit. As well as being accessed by boat the Wind Pump can also be reached by road on the coast road between Great Yarmouth and Cromer. Horsey is just a stones through from the North Sea and is one of the best places on the broads for nature lovers. The restriction to boat access and the fact that the road is not the main route from Great Yarmouth to Cromer, make this one of the quieter broads.
River Bure
You could be forgiven for thinking that Roys are Wroxham. The shop brand is everywhere and visiting one of the shops is a must. This far into the broads Wroxham is one of largest places and is a good place to restock on supplies. Roys is on nearly every street and caters for the casual or the serious shopper. Like Potter Heigham Wroxham has a small bridge, but it is not as tidal as the former. I also don’t believe there is as much to see upstream of Wroxham as at Potter Heigham.
I think a highlight of the River Bure is Ranworth Broad. There’s a lovely broad and St Helen’s Church has a tower that can be climbed to see fantastic views of the area. I climbed the tower with my family and found that a lot of other people were doing the same.
River Yare
This is the largest river in the area and runs from downstream of Norwich through Reedham to the estuary of Breydon Water. I have to admit I haven’t spent much time on this river which ultimately flows into the sea at Great Yarmouth.
River Ant
A very narrow river with distinct meanders. Travelling north from Ludham Bridge How Hill stands to the right of the river and I enjoyed walking in the nature reserve here. It is essential to navigate the River Ant by boat as once past How Hill Barton Broad opens out very wide and is only accessible from the river. I was really surprised by the size of this broad (second in only to Hickling Broad) although the depth is restricted and the navigable channel must be followed to avoid grounding. Neatishead is accessed from the west of the broad and is an ideal stop over as there is plenty of mooring here.
We travelled on up the river to Stalham Staithe on our visit and there is also good mooring here. Crossing the main road takes you into Stalham village which is a large place by River Ant standards and a place to pick up supplies.
In Summary
Overall I recommend the Norfolk Broads for a holiday. On a boat you get a really good feel for the waterways, but in the Summer they can get very busy. Nature lovers should best visit out of the main season, as wildlife is likely to be more accessible when there aren’t as many visitors making noise and disrupting the environment. Those who fish can be frustrated by the commercialisation of some of the broads and I expect they will need to seek out some of the quieter spots if they want to be successful. I am not an expert in this sport so I can’t comment further on this particular matter..
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Jul 12th, 2007
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