Norfolk Broads

...of the waterways of the Norfolk Broads.

Before we go we had better have a quick lesson in geography and history.

The Broads are a huge area of wetland that cover just over three hundred square Kilometres of Norfolk and North Suffolk. They include over two hundred Kilometres of navigable waterways including the rivers Waveney, Bure and Yare plus many other smaller waterways. There are forty-one Broads in all, eighteen ...
...Broads name itself is a Norfolk word meaning shallow lake and that is exactly what they are.

After the last Ice age debris collected on top of the chalk base of the area and was compacted leaving vast areas of thick peat. This peat was excavated by hand between the ninth and thirteenth centuries when it was used for fuel. This left huge shallow areas that eventually became flooded and were joined by the areas rivers to make up the ... more

Let me take you on a journey, a voyage of discovery through the peaceful world of the waterways of the Norfolk Broads.

Before we go we had better have a quick lesson in geography and history.

The Broads are a huge area of wetland that cover just over three hundred square Kilometres of Norfolk and North Suffolk. They include over two hundred Kilometres of navigable waterways including the rivers Waveney, Bure and Yare plus many other smaller waterways. There are forty-one Broads in all, eighteen of them navigable.
The whole area encompassing water, fen, marsh, woodland and arable land make up this unique wetland area that holds a protected status similar to a national park.

The Broads name itself is a Norfolk word meaning shallow lake and that is exactly what they are.

After the last Ice age debris collected on top of the chalk base of the area and was compacted leaving vast areas of thick peat. This peat was excavated by hand between the ninth and thirteenth centuries when it was used for fuel. This left huge shallow areas that eventually became flooded and were joined by the areas rivers to make up the huge watery landscape that we see today. Later, boats called Wherries used the waterways. These sailed craft transported freight to the many towns and villages that were now linked by the watercourses.
Today however with other forms of transport having taken over from the Wherry the Broads are used mostly for leisure pastimes.

Lesson over; let's set off on our tour of discovery.

We will set off from Oulton Broad, which is a town on the edge of Lowestoft in Suffolk. It is where the river Waveney makes its way into the North Sea and is at the southern edge of the Broads. With its pubs and clubs and its proximity to Lowestoft's beaches it is a popular stop off point for holidaymakers. Oulton Broad together with other towns such as Potter Hiegham and Wroxam act as starting points for waterborne holidaymakers being where they board their holiday cruisers.

We are lucky we are leaving on a Thursday evening so we will get to watch a bit of the powerboat racing as we gently work our way through the moored boats. It is a really exiting spectacle but a noisy one and I look forward to peace and quiet once we get through Oulton Broad and start our journey by joining the river Waveney at the west end of The Broad.
It is a glorious sight with the early evening sun sinking slowly into the glittering water that moves in soft waves running before a gentle breeze. The waves work their way over the water to gently lap into the reed beds and the gardens that back onto the water. Residents of those houses are sitting on their jetties enjoying the evening sun.

Leaving Oulton Broad the wide expanse of water narrows into the river and suddenly we are in a different world, gone is the hustle and bustle, peace descends as we cruise along the reed lined river. We are now in countryside; nightingales greet us from high overhead, ducks and moorhen swear at us as we make them move aside for us and a serene swan moves on its regal way, making us avoid it.
Other craft pass us waving as they go on their way.
As we progress we see an angling club having a fishing match from the riverbank.
"Caught much?" we enquire as we pass.
"Roach, Rudd and a couple of Bream" says one.
"Two large Pike and some Eels "says another.
"I hit into a large Carp," says a third.
Just a few of the many species of fish available to catch in this anglers paradise.

As we leave the anglers behind there is a break in the curtain of reeds and we can see across an expanse of marshland inhabited by grazing cattle in front of one of the many windmills that dot the whole area. One of the many country churches looks out over the water from its position on the hilltop. A group of ramblers are walking along the path that runs along the edge of the river, enjoying an evening stroll in the summer sun.
As we continue we are faced with a choice, we can continue straight which will bring us to Great Yarmouth and the northern broads or we can turn left to Somerleyton and Beccles.

We will continue north as most of the Broads are in this direction. But for now it is getting near dusk and we need to find somewhere to tie up as it is illegal to be on the move after dark for obvious safety reasons.

Burgh Castle is just up the Beccles fork so I think that would be a good place to stop for the night. The towns and villages along the water frontage are popular so it is a good idea not to be on the go too late if you want to find a mooring at one of them. It is possible to tie up in the open if you prefer although it is wise to check that there are no obstructions and that your chosen tying up point is not private.

After we have found a mooring spot it is time to kick back, relax and enjoy the rest of the evening. Maybe we could break out the fishing gear or the binoculars to take in some of the abundant wildlife. We could go to the pub for our supper or get something from the shop.

Early the next morning and it is time to get underway again, heading off towards Great Yarmouth. The early morning is a great time to be boating, nothing else is moving and you have the illusion of being totally alone in this watery wonderland. As we wend our way slowly along the river the early morning wildlife is out and about in its search for food. Look there, a kingfisher sitting on the reed on the lookout for small fish for its breakfast, not much further and a much larger predator is doing the same, a heron studying the rippling river surface. If we look up we may see a hawk searching for one of the many mice and voles that inhabit the riverbank.

Time slides by as we cruise, life is not rushed, no pressure to get anywhere fast, not that is possible anyway as a large number of stretches have speed limits for safety and to protect the river banks from erosion from the wash of passing craft.
Another fork this time the choices of heading up the river Yare towards Norwich or down river through Breydon water to Great Yarmouth and the North Norfolk Broads. That will be our route, then along the river Bure through Acle and onto the main Broad area.
This whole area is a designated National nature reserve and as we head toward Barton Broad we enter a designated area of special scientific interest.
The Barton Broad project was a huge undertaking to restore the broad to its former glory whilst at the same time expanding the human interaction available.

As well as the Barton Broad project, Hickling, Horsey and Martham Broads are internationally important refuges for water birds. They come to the Broads in large flocks especially ducks and geese who spend the winter on the open water where they feed and roost.

We have come a long way and so now we will close our tour.
We have passed many towns and villages where we could have stopped and explored, ranging from small market towns to the magnificence of Somerleyton hall. All in all the broads is a great place for a laid back holiday where you just cruise along and stop where you will.

Of course holiday making and tourism whilst making up a large proportion of Broads activity nowadays is by no means all that goes on. Many people make their living in Broadland with industries as diverse as reed cutting for thatched roofing materials to livestock raising on the fertile marshland to traders selling local craft and produce and many, many more.
Conservation too is very important and is looked after by the Broads Authority in partnership with the Environment agency and the people of Broadland who work hard to conserve the area for generations to come.

That is the broads in summer, it is a very different place in the winter and for me it is even more special.
I love to go down to my marshes in the winter, crunching the frosty grass under my boots as I admire the frost glinting in the morning sun on the reeds and the trees. Spider's webs glisten with bright frozen dew between the reeds and ducks push between them looking for their breakfast. Walking to the water's edge a sense of peace always comes over me. It is isolated and bleak but at the same time it is peaceful and an ideal place to let my cares be washed away on the slow moving water for a time.

The Broads is a special place. If you do visit I am sure you will enjoy the experience but please help to look after it by not speeding along if you are afloat, don't leave your litter behind you and heed the rules that are in place to protect the environment. Of course as it is an area with a lot of water care should be taken at all times especially with small children.

When you visit do your bit to keep this unique water world as it should be.

© Docpov August 2005
 

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