Great sightseeing, excellent transport links, bargains to take advantage of
Disadvantages:
Generally expensive
Recommend to potential buyers:
yes
Full review
After writing a lengthy epic on the highlights of my trip to Rome, I've been inspired to tackle gaie Paris, focussing on the best sights, and my favourite thing - bargains.
The Background:
As three financially challenged students on an end-of-degree farewell trip, we tried to chose a classic cultural destination that was also affordable. However, Paris isn't cheap, and we ended up staying at the 2* Hotel Navarin Et Angleterre, in the pleasant, yet unremarkable, area of St. Georges. On arrival I was quite impressed by the freshly decorated reception, with marble floor and green velvet fittings, and the extremely polite receptionist. Squashing into the miniscule elevator, we were expelled into the mild squalor that £35 per person per night will buy you in central Paris. Due to a lack of twin rooms, two of us squashed into a slightly mouldy bed with nylon covers, which we had heaved against the wall to gain another inch of valuable floorspace. The bathroom was no bigger than a portaloo, with a shower so tiny you basically had to wear the curtain as a dress and stick one leg on the toilet. Breakfast consisted of a unvarying bread roll and hot beverage, doled out with some menace by sizeable African ladies. I wouldn't stay there again, as it was in no way value for money, but it was cheaper than other central places and served it's purpose as a handy base for sightseeing.
The Top Places to go:
The main sights of Paris are probably some of the best known in the world, the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triumph, La Madeleine, the Latin Quarter etc, which are all obviously worth seeing, but I'm going to list my 5 top general area and alternative sight recommendations, in no particular order:
MONTMARTRE - This lovely district was named after bishop St. Denis, who angered the Romans in AD260 by toppling their pagan statues, and was subsequently decapitated on what became the Mount of Martyrs - Montmartre. He apparently then picked up his head and walked off, but I'll leave the likelihood of that to your judgement. The network of small cobbled streets and pretty courtyards, still contain two original windmills (Moulin de Radet and Moulin de la Galette in Rue Lepic), which help to retain a real village atmosphere. The main sight is the Place du Tertre, a very touristy square crammed with artists and their easels. It's impossible to find a bargain here, or particularly good art, but there's a great buzz of attempted creativity and the chance to peer over artist's shoulders and watch them work. The other big attraction is the Sacre Couer (Rue de Chevalier-de-la-Barre), a beautiful large white Romano-Byzantine church built in 1870 as an act of penance after Frances defeat by the Prussians. It is built on the highest point in Paris, and the many steps leading up to it are filled with people sitting and enjoying the wonderful view. I watched the colours of the city change at sunset from here and it was just beautiful, and after all that piety, it's only a short walk to the naughty area of Pigalle and the Moulin Rouge, but that's another story!
The MUSEE D'ORSAY (Rue de Lille) was my favourite gallery. I really enjoyed the Louvre as well, but the queues, the crowds and the fact I got rather severely lost in the Egyptian section, laid the way for me to enjoy d'Orsay more. Also, whereas the Louvre would take a whole holiday to appreciate fully, this Musée can be seen in one visit. The location in the old train station with the huge antique clock, makes it feel pretty unique, and from upstairs there are wonderful panoramas of the river and city beyond. The art is focussed on the period from 1848-1914, including the Impressionists, and the displays are innovative, and creative, many being shown in intimate ante-rooms.
ILE DE LA CITE - this tiny island in the middle of the Seine was the site of the first Paris settlement in 250BC. In 1831 Victor Hugo described it as "a bustling medieval quarter of narrow streets of hundreds of tall wooden houses", which sounds like a great place to visit if it hadn't been flattened by Napoleon's nephew. But a few old buildings and streets survived, and the serene peaceful atmosphere is still removed from the city that surrounds it. The streets are lovely to stroll around, with interesting old shops and a huge daily flower market (Place Louis Lepine) on the right bank side, near the metro station. There are many interesting sights, such as the medieval towered Conciergerie, which was the prison that held both Robespierre and Marie-Antoinette, and the Palais de Justice law courts, which surrounds the magical Saint Chapelle, a masterpiece of stained glass and slender gothic columns built in 1248. This originally housed holy relics, including Jesus's crown of thorns and a piece of the true cross, but both of these are now in the most famous attraction of the Ile, Notre Dame. This huge begargoyled gothic megalith is situated in the dead centre of Paris, and looms above Place du Parvais in an awe-striking way. It was begun in 1163, and has been host to many historic events including Napoleon's coronation and Joan of Arc's posthumous trial. Inside I found it easy to soak up the atmosphere, and the Rose Window is a magnificent work of art. At the far end of the Ile, behind Notre Dame is a small and poignant memorial garden to the Jews and Communists who were deported during WWII, which I found an ideal place to reflect and take some time out from the city.
PERE LACHAISE CEMETERY - this may not initially jump to mind as a sight of Paris, but it is way more interesting than the Eiffel Tower, and easily overlooked. This huge overcrowded cemetery is in the run down 20th arrondisement in Bld. de Menilmontant, and is packed with tombs around cobbled tree-lined lanes. It's so full, not only are visitors falling over graves, but they are falling over Jim Morrison, Bizet, Moliere, Chopin, Sartre, Edith Piaf, Oscar Wilde (on who's tomb you can add to the many planted kisses),and the graves of the classic tragic Paris lovers Aberlard and Heloise. There are many, many more, along with elaborate tombs and chapels. It really is a memorable place and unlike any other cemetery I've visited. My top tip would be to shell out for a guide map. We didn't and even though we found all our graves of interest eventually, it is very ramshackle and it's easy to get lost. www.pere-lachaise.com gives a fine virtual tour, which is nearly as good as being there!
MONET'S HOUSE AND GARDEN at Giverny (E4, not open Apr-Nov) was my favourite destination. Though not strictly in the city, the 75Km train journey from Gare St. Lazare to Vernon only takes 45 minutes, then there is a 5 minute bus ride to the village. The lovely pink cottage with blue shutters, where Monet lived with his family from 1883-1926, gives the visitor an interesting insight into the artist's private world. Each room has a colour theme and is beautifully outfitted in a humble country style. It has the real feel of still being lived in and visitors are free to wander around, admire his collection of Japanese prints, and gaze out of the window at the perfect country garden, which Monet designed himself so there would always be blasts of colour. Under a subway, crossing the road behind his cottage garden, lies one of Monet's most famous subjects, the waterlily pond. Even the rowing boat is still there. There is an extensive shop stocking everything from Monet aprons, art books, and seeds from his garden. Afterwards, we took a short walk through the quiet village to visit Monet's grave at the small church, which was planted with more of his favourite flowers. I would recommend spending a lovely day here to anyone in the area.
The Money-Saving Tips:
My flatmate in Scotland had luckily lived in Paris for a year so was able to give us some very useful tips:
1. Buy a Carte Orange for the metro - this unlimited travel ticket is technically just for residents of Paris, but the metro officials couldn't give a stuff, and it is an absolute bargain at E14. For that you get unlimited travel in zones 1 & 2 (the majority of Paris a tourist will want to visit) from Monday morning to Sunday evening of the week of purchase (i.e. don't buy it on a Sunday). All you do is buy the Carte and accompanying coupon hebdomidaire, which comes in a natty plastic wallet, at a normal ticket booth, attach a passport photo (there are booths in most metro stations), write on some kind of Paris address et voila! This is much better value than a carnet or touriste ticket ,and it's easy!
2. For very cheap, filling meals CROUS restaurants are great. The are connected to the university and located all over the city. If you have some manner of foreign student card (again they aren't too fussy) you can buy a ticket for E4,70, (or E2,65 if you're French) which buys 3 courses from a number of options. There are often several restaurants and bars on one site, so once you have your ticket you can opt for pizzeria, bar, traditional restaurant etc. I ate in a canteen style place. It was far from a gastronomic revolution (pizza, salad, and chocolate mousse) and I felt like an invading foreigner, but if you are on a budget it's a bargain. Another cheap food option is gorgeous falafel served in huge pitta breads through shop windows in the Jewish Marais district. These are delicious and only cost about £2. The old fashioned bakeries here are also amazing for bagels and sachertorte.
3. For bargain-seeking culture vultures this is a must: the Paris opera house at Bastille sells off any spare tickets for the evening performance five minutes before it starts, VERY cheaply. If I remember rightly, it's less than half price, and available to anyone under 25, or over 65. If you fall outwith these categories, but look particularly young / old, they don't check ID. We saw a wonderful version of William Tell, and even though we couldn't get seats all together, it is very worth just experiencing the beautiful acoustics and quality of the performances. It is best to arrive about an hour before the start of the show to get into line. Don't go to the normal box-office, but turn left at the main doors and wait with an assembled group of pensioners by a separate window. Do not try to queue jump otherwise they will wallop you with their walking sticks.
4. Tourist information centres (there is one at Gare Du Nord, for example), have many reduced tour offers and useful vouchers. In the shopping guide area, I found vouchers for free gifts when you make purchases at several of the main department stores. Being a slave to shoes, I couldn't resist a gorgeous pair of red 1950s style heels (on sale) at the sophisticated Galleries Lafayette, and used my voucher to pick up a very chic black shoulder bag, with gold detail for free at the customer orientation desk. Major bargain!
5. Paris museums are free on the first Sunday of each month.
Transport:
We flew with Ryanair from Prestwick to Beauvais, which is no more than a marquee in a field, 70Km from Paris. There are good transport links though, with buses running frequently from outside arrivals, which for E10 will deposit you in a car park at Porte Maillot, in easy walking distance of a metro station. We made the mistake of arriving here at night with no coinage, and because the minor stations aren't manned after dark we were left with two options - either leap athletically over 8ft high barriers as some fare dodgers were doing (beware though because the metro guards are prone to sudden ticket busts armed with Alsatians), or find some change. We managed this in a late night deli, which was also our first experience of how friendly Parisians are. I'm a little ashamed of this, but I'd always thought of the French as a petit peu arrogant and rude, an opinion formed after a couple of school trips to Normandy. But maybe this was just because they were being invaded by a coach of rowdy English brats, because the Parisians on the whole were very welcoming, and we received many smiling bonjours from total strangers on the streets.
Anyway, the city transport is excellent. I've already talked about the Carte Orange ticket, which is definitely the cheapest way to get the most out of the metro and RER lines. The only downside is the pick-pockets who are rife in all of the stations and very adept at their work. Also beware of the French rule of pre-validating overland train tickets in the orange composteur machine, to avoid fines and irate ticket inspectors.
For a general overview of the city, the Bateaux Mouches cruises along the Seine are very relaxing and informative, and give a running commentary of all the sights, including the Louvre, Eiffel tower and Biblioteque. The one hour cruise costs about £6, and leaves from Pont de l'Alma every half hour, travelling up the river beyond the Ile de la Cite, and then returns to the statue of liberty. Another good way to get an idea of the layout, or if undergrounds are not your thing, there are several open air double decker buses which run from outside Trocadero on set routes to all of the sights, again with commentary, and you can hop on or off where you like. We used this for orientation, and it was a great way to initially get to know the place before relegating ourselves to the underground tunnels. And I got a B.O.G.O.F from the tourist info centre for this too!
On the whole Paris is quite expensive, but there are bargains to be found, and it's a classic destination that everyone must experience once in their lifetime.
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