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Perth (Australia)

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Isolation has its rewards

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5 Jan 14th, 2001 

9 Ciao members have rated this review on average: very helpful

Advantages:
Fun, easy, quite cheap, friendly and great weather for the beach

Disadvantages:
A long flight from London (or anywhere)

Recommendable Yes:

Detailed rating:

Value for Money

Shopping

Nightlife

Ease of getting around

Family Friendly

kimbowa

kimbowa

About me:

I'm a high school Drama teacher. In 2005 I'm going to start a PhD scholarship. I enjoy the CIAO id...

Member since:09.01.2001

Reviews:41

Members who trust:7

Perth has the reputation of being the most isolated capital city in the world. It is closer to Bali than Sydney and Melbourne and sits in the south west corner of the huge state of Western Australia.

What many people seem to miss when they think about Western Australia is that it covers fully one-third of the landmass of Australia. Think of it in terms of Europe - the distance between Perth and Sydney is roughly the same distance as between London and Athens. The distance from Perth to Broome (another Western Australian gem) is about the same distance as Land's End to John O'Groats. The point I'm making is that Perth is a long way from anywhere and this can be a little disconcerting for travellers used to the confines of Europe.

A commitment to visit Perth is quite an undertaking. Lucky as tourists we can access all manner of travel deals that are not available to the locals - airfares in Australia are only cheap on the east coast!!

So what happens once you get there? First off you need to find some accommodation and like most sophisticated cities Perth offers the full gamut from 5 star behemoths to cosy Bed and Breakfast to layback Youth Hostels. I'm not a lover of the big hotels anywhere - I can't work out how you get to meet anyone in these places - I head for the cheap hostels and with the current state of the Australian Dollar they are cheap indeed - it's possible to get really comfortable and cosy digs for around 5 pounds a night - visit during the Aussie winter and you can negotiate weekly rates that work out even better.

The great thing about most of the Hostels and backpackers is that they are so central to everything... in Perth city centre most of the backpackers hostels are located in an area called Northbridge which also happens to be the centre of nightlife in the centre - it's reputation varies from being sleazy (although most of the streetwalkers are now being ushered into the back streets) to being innocuous - I tend to put it at this end of the scale. I've seldom visited this sort of area in the world where I've felt so little threat from anything or anyone. Sure the occasional drunk gets out of hand, or some teenagers start flirting with the idea of being a street gang - as far as world standards go - this place is pretty tame.

It does come to life quite regularly with such events as the Pride March - a mini version of Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras events around the world - the number of participants may be smaller than Sydney but they really enjoy themselves and everyone enjoys the spectacle - Northbridge becomes one big street party for the night. Unfortunately there seems to be a move to get rid of this event from Northbridge as conservative bodies lobby the local council to refuse permits. If they're not careful they'll turn the area into a cultural desert. It's events like this that keep Joe Public and his family coming to the area - as long as families keep coming the area remains vibrant - once they stop the area begins to degenerate and draws the sleazy and undesirable elements of a city - look at Kings Cross in both Sydney and London for examples of what I mean.

This area of Perth also houses the Cultural Centre - a State Library, a Museum, an Art Gallery, an Institute of Contemporary Art, and Actor's Centre make this a vibrant area for anyone interested in the visual and performing arts. During late January and February this area also hosts an outdoor venue called the Watershed - which is actually the official venue for Festival Club during the Perth International Arts Festival. This venue can be great fun and after 10.30 each night all the performers and crews from the shows in the Festival start turning up... there is a real party atmosphere and it carries on into the wee small hours throughout the Festival season. This is a great place to rub shoulders with the famous, the not-so-famous, the soon-to-be-famous and the who-did-you-say-you-were-again's. In Feb 2000 I spent a great night in the Watershed being entertained by The Tiger Lillies from London - they had the place enthralled and after their set joined our table for a drink.

Perth by day, offers all manner of activities, the suburban beaches are some of the best in the world and despite the occasional visit by a Great White Shark are also amongst the safest in the world. The Life Guards here are all volunteers and are incredibly well trained. The beaches are generally well appointed with easy parking, good changing and showering facilities and most have great restaurants, cafes and kiosks nearby. You can spend weeks just exploring all the local beaches - and if you surf there is plenty of opportunity to drag out your board. One of my favourite places is called Cottesloe (yep, just like the theatre at the National in London)... Cottesloe Beach is a layback place with beautiful white sand; a protected swimming area and a nearby reef break for surfing. Recently there was a nasty incident with a shark, but I think that's a relatively rare event. The beach has great restaurants and cafes only metres from the sand and I loved to spend too many hours just sitting and watching the world go by. Across the road is a selection of pubs and the OBH (Ocean Beach Hotel), called the Oby is a fantastic place on Sunday afternoons, when the locals gather. Mainly for the younger set and I must confess to finding it a bit hard to maintain the pace these days.

A short train ride (25 minutes) from Perth central is Fremantle, the port city. This is a really nice place to wander and take in the atmosphere. It contains some of the oldest buildings in Western Australia, although by European measures 150 years really isn't all that impressive. You can't help escaping the fact that this place was once built and occupied by convicts. In fact, two of the most popular sights are the Round House, a very simple prison sitting atop what would be some very lucrative real estate at the west end of town and the old Fremantle Prison that was in service up until a few years back. Guided tours are available, but hardly necessary, and the Prison is also used as a performance and conference venue. You can visit the gallows that were actually used to execute criminals and see the cell that was especially lined with iron studs to keep one Moondyne Joe inside the prison after he showed he could be very slippery.

Fremantle is also home to the Cappuccino Strip, actually its a short stretch of road almost full of cafes, this is a great place to while away the hours and meet some locals. Fremantle is really home to the alternative set and is also rapidly becoming a university town as the Notre Dame University spreads out throughout the old buildings. I really enjoy this place and while it is no throbbing metropolis it is a very pleasant and relaxing place.

I have spent quite a bit of time in Perth and it is evident that this is one place in the world where you can live a comfortable lifestyle without too much fuss and bother. The climate, the people and the way of life are very appealing and I'd happily settle down there. Another bonus I recently discovered is the ability to take cheap overnight trips to Bali - for about $350 (AUD) you can leave early in the morning, fly to Bali - put your feet up, shop, swim, surf and party for two full days before climbing back on the plane to Perth. This is an incredible diversion and huge fun!!

Finally, the people in Perth are what really make the place. Everyone is pretty layback and generally ready to have a good time... the pace of life is comfortable (although there are signs it's getting a little more frantic) and as such most people are very content with their lot. It's easy to find people to spend to time with and tourists are very well accepted... people were very interested to know about where we've come from and where we've been. It seems that Perth, being so far from everything else, breeds a certain travel bug, and I felt that nearly every person I met knew more about the cities and sights of London and Europe than I did. It turns out there is an almost ritual long term trip around the world that many Perth youngsters make shortly after leaving school or university... and this shows in the understanding that the people have about the world... this is certainly no redneck backwater...

I had a great time and I'm sure others attest to the fact. Keep an eye open at your travel agent - it's possible to get return flights to Perth for under 500 quid!! And with the Australian Dollar wallowing a bit at present it makes for a very reasonably priced destination. You can always travel on to Sydney and Melbourne if you must.
 

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Comments about this review »

helencbradshaw 05.02.2005 20:11

I was based there for a while in 1999/2000

Aspen 14.01.2001 10:32

Very detailed and readable op. Thanks.

Connoisseur_Haggler 14.01.2001 10:26

you've won me over...excellent opinion and lots of practical tips too! I've never had the opportunity to visit this amazing country..Austrailia at all, but when I do I'll defitely bear Perth in mind. thanks

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