***Background***
I promised to write up our year travelling in my recent review on
Manly,
Australia and as part of the trip we wanted to do a visit to
Perth as we had gotten some free internal Qantas flights in Oz as part of our round the world ticket and thought we may as well fly as far from
Sydney as we could given it was free so off we jetted to Perth.
Prior to going we booked a hotel on line (web site we used no longer seems active but you can just google the hotel name for plenty of links) and stayed at the Park Royal, Perth for 5 nights but this little trip was simply an excuse to travel back to Sydney in a very unique way – via The Indian Pacific
Railway (more on that in a later review). It was sad to say that I went to Perth not wanting or expecting much and was using it more of a stopover for the trip back. Even if I had gone with high expectations I don’t really think I would have been disappointed because it was a trip that we both enjoyed immensely and with hindsight wished we had organised more time there. Exchange rate £1 = AUS$ 2.30/$1 = 43p
***History to Perth**
Western Australia (WA) is a size almost beyond comprehension and makes up around 33% of the Australian land mass (2.5m sq km from a total of 7.7m) with a coastline stretching 20,000 km. It is 3 ½ times bigger that Texas. It dwarfs the UK. It is probably the most diverse of all Australian states from the dry, barren land of the North to the
lush green forests of the
South West and because of this diversity is a great place to travel. Perth is based on the South East coastline.
Dutch sailor, Dirk Hartog, was the first recorded European to have landed in WA in 1616 although it wasn’t until 1826 that the British created a military post in what is now Albany and in 1829 a colony was created by Captain Fremantle in the mouth of the Swan River.
In 1850 convicts arrived to help build roads & buildings but it wasn’t until gold was discovered in 1885 that the area witnessed the gold rush which brought wealth & independence.
To this day the city is growing rapidly and historically has struggled with the likes of Sydney/Melbourne to attract permanent residents although now enjoys a growing economy (averaged 4% over the last ten years) with low unemployment and has an unsatiable demand for skilled tradesmen. Its location compared to Asia brings great trade advantages and 67% of Australian exports are from WA, principally gold, minerals and petroleum products.
WA’s population is around 2m of which 1.5m are based in and around Perth (source http://www.abs.gov.au/ausstats/abs@.nsf/mf/3235.5.55.001 )
***Time Difference***
There is a 9 hour difference ahead of GMT during UK Winter and 7 hours ahead in Summer.
***Climate***
When we went (May) they had not had a drop of rain for 8 months and it was the 35th consecutive day over 35 C so it was hot, hot, hot! It also felt very dry and was certainly much hotter than Sydney. I will certainly remember the perennial blue skies.
Average temperatures are high 89F/32C/low 59F/15C in Summer and high 64F/47C/low 59F/15C in Winter.
When we were there is was certainly much hotter than this so as the Aussies say “Slip, Slap, Slop on the suncream!”
The area enjoys the “Fremantle Doctor” (or “Freo Doctor”) which is the term for an afternoon
sea breeze which happens virtually daily in the summer months and helps to cool the area.
*** Getting There***
We had free QANTAS flights (or Quaint Arse as the Aussies call them) so we didn’t have to worry about cost. However, flights from the UK take around
19 hours and can be obtained for around £700 return from most major
airlines such as BA/Qantas/Emirate/
Singapore/Luthansa etc.
***Accomodation***
Perth Park Royal Hotel
54 Terrace Road
Perth, WA
6004
Phone: +61 8 9325 3811
Fax: +61 8 9221 1564
Centrally located between the main business district of St Georges Terrace and the beautiful Swan River and foreshore parkland. Close to the business precinct, shopping and Northbridge eating and entertainment options.
Rooms & Charges; 191 rooms in total. Singles From AUS$124/£54. Doubles From AUD$124/£54. Check In: 2pm. Check Out: 11am.
Services & Facilities; Minibar, Restaurant, 24-hour Room Service, Television, Bureau De Change, Parking, Safe Deposit, Bar, Swimming Pool, Disabled Access, Business Facilities, Childcare Facilities, Air Conditioning, Whirlpool, Non-smoking Rooms, Fitness Club.
Conferences; One
conference room with the capacity to seat 100 guests theatre style, or it can be divided into three smaller rooms.
Hotel is rated 4 stars, is fresh and clean with a typical laid back Aussie feel about if which to me just sums up Australia generally. Check in was easy & efficient. Rooms were basic but as expected (probably something similar to a Ramada). In fact, it was just what we wanted and expected and more importantly it had a fantastic location overlooking the Swan River and very close to the Barrack St Jetty where all the ferries to/from Fremantle/Rottnest Island went from and these were places we wanted to see.
There is plenty of choice in
accommodation from
hotels to
hostels to
serviced apartments so the choice is entirely yours.
***Shopping***
Australia generally is not the best shopping and if you are going for the shopping then you are going to the wrong place.
Other than maybe some local shops/products (ie opals or Aboriginal artefacts) then there is little attraction in Shopping.
***First Impressions***
The first impressions and very much lasting ones where that Perth is a vast open space with very wide streets to the point that you seemingly needed a cab to cross the road. When you first start to have a wander about it hits you as to how remote this place is (2800km from Adelaide, 4390km from Brisbane, 6016km from Cairns). You are actually nearer to Singapore (3901km) than Sydney (3988km).
***Things to Do***
You are spoilt for choice and if you want stimulation or relaxation then Perth has something for you. The majority of attractions that are within the City can largely be accessed by walking to them other than that the usual mode of transport is the ferry.
If you choose, the buses and taxis are frequent and cheap.
Having arrived around teatime then this was a day that little was going to be done in the way of trips, especially after what was a very turbulent 5 hour flight from Sydney. Getting in the taxi at the
airport was like being home from home because a Mancunian was driving it and given this is
my home town he wanted an update on everything as he had not been back for over 30 years!
We went for a walk round just to get our bearings and explore and find ourselves on Murray St near the CBD (Central Business District) and are strangely attracted to the sounds of a live band coming from Durty Nelly’s pub so we thought we will have a bit of that! Four hours later we stumbled out after a helping of lamb stew each and enough Guinness/wine to sink a battleship and then found ourselves in the Moon & Sixpence for another live band playing 80’s music
so we had a bit of that too. Both were great, friendly pubs, great service despite being busy and excellent entertainment.To be honest, I have no idea as to prices here as it was all a blur but suffice to say, like many things in Australia, it was much cheaper than the UK and so you feel that you are getting your money’s worth.
As part of your trips you are likely at some stage to take a ferry from Barrack St Jetty and on the wharf is a bar that I was strangely attracted to. It was named The Lucky Shag Bar and so I had to take a look. It’s name originates from the many cormorants on the Swan river which are known as shags and word has it that when the owners were looking for a name a shag swooped into the water and came out with two fish and one turned round and said “Gee – that’s a lucky shag” and so the name was born. Is a great place to stop for a drink or a meal with indoor & outdoor eating, live entertainment and is a favourite with tourists and locals alike.
BurswoodEntertainment Complex
I had mixed feelings about this place but I do not think you can visit Perth without going to see it. I am not even going to describe in detail what is there as they have their own web site. However, if you picture the biggest hotel/casinos in Vegas then this is on similar lines but probably marginally smaller. http://www.burswood.com.au/
My apprehension was because this place is something that is not unique to Perth, indeed these huge edifices have sprung up in Sydney and Melbourne and the truth is that once you are inside you could be anywhere, even
Las Vegas. When you visit therefore you are not getting a feel for what Perth is all about but you simply cannot ignore it.
This is a huge complex near the City which is a mixture of hotels, bars, restaurants and casino and when we got there it appeared half the population of Perth was there as well. It was cram packed.
You are spoilt for choice and as was coming common in our very short trip thus far, we ended up in an Irish Bar named Paddy Hannan’s which was straight out of central casting right down to the
beer mats.
After that we went for a Chinese at the Genting Palace which was very nice but for all its niceness you just can’t help feeling that it’s all manufactured.
Prices were very reasonable also at $80 for two including drinks.
It was all very run of the
mill to be honest and even our scrap book has a note from my wife saying “John couldn’t be bothered to even have a bet in the casino – he must be ill!!” Sums the place up really.
These huge complexes for me take away the identity of the City and is a scar on the landscape. It is to be hoped that the City fathers do not become complacent by having such a diverse attraction. They need to continue to offer the traveller something else and unique to Perth otherwise people travelling in will have no reason to go as it is unlikely you will go all the way to Perth just to see Burswood. I would urge any visitor to go and see Burswood – hell you can’t escape it – but would also urge caution in going back. There is sufficient else to see and if you just want to go and visit a casino complex then go to Vegas.
Unfortunately, Perth is not a place to go on a Sunday night as it seemingly shuts down at 9pm!! We didn’t really want to go back to the casino and so got the hotel
concierge to give us some recommendations for a drink and even he was struggling! We went to another Irish Bar (can’t remember the name) but it was shutting up and they said that an Irish club in
Subiaco would be open so off we went there. Yippee – it was open – but there was only us in it but we had an hour with the landlord and his wife who were originally from Scotland so caught up on a few things and went back to the hotel.
There is lots to see and do in Perth. You can be stimulated or you can do the relaxed bit. Here are some of the attractions although the list is not exhaustive.
Aquarium of Western Australia (AQWA) http://www.aqwa.com.au/main.asp
Based 20 mins out of the city, this is a great family treat. It boats Australia’s biggest aquarium and underwater tunnel and the sight from beneath it is amazing as sharks, rays and turtles amongst many other species swim above you. The aquarium is split into five distinct areas reflecting the unique environments and marine life in each namely: Perth Coast, Great Southern Coast, Marmion Marine Park, Shipwrec Coat & Far North. Kids & adults alike will be mesmerized here.
Kings Park and
Botanic GardensMade up of over 400 hectares of parkland and gardens and is one of the city's most popular attractions for locals and tourists alike. It is located just adjacent to the city (you could walk it) and is set high on Mount Eliza with breathtaking views of the city and Swan River with many trails & paths leading through it.
A large area is made up of native bush with hundreds of native plant species and around 80 species of birds. It also has a number of lookout points, the State War Memorial (with it’s permanent flame) commemorating those lost in conflict from WA, open parkland areas and statues, and is a great destination for picnics, cycling, sight-seeing, walking and enjoying the
panoramic views of the river, South Perth & the city. During the summer months, the park also hosts a number of events including outdoor concerts,
moonlight cinema, as well as the Kings Park Wildflower festival each spring.
We spent a lazy afternoon there having a picnic and doing absolutely nothing but enjoying the relaxation.
Perth Zoo
Situated in South Perth via ferry from the Swan River (very easy to get to) this fantastic
zoo offers up wildlife in their natural settings (
apart from the dangerous ones)! Has a special Australian walkabout section cover native species such as kangaroos, wallabies, wombats, koalas, crocs etc as well as the usual zoo animals. This is a great day out for all the family.
Perth Mint
Established 1899 and you can visit to see gold being minted and they will also tell you your weight in gold. Originally set up to make gold sovereigns for the British Empire it exists today largely to produce precious metal coins for collectors & investors. Has the largest collection in Australia of natural gold nuggets. A unique attraction that may spark an interest for the kids. Opens daily from 9 and based in Hay St near the Swan river.
London Court
I mention this not as an attraction as such but just that it looks peculiar and out of place. Set amongst the sky scrapers, London Court is a mock tudor street based between Hay St and St Georges Terrace and is certainly a favourite of the locals as it has it’s own unique charm. The street has shops & cafes in and has a feel of Old
England in it.
Fremantle
Based overlooking the Indian Ocean at the mouth of the Swan River around 19 km from Perth, Fremantle (or Freo to the locals) is a very popular tourist area. It is a 19th century town with picturesque old buildings and relaxed atmosphere and the majority of the buildings are built in a 19th century style making it feel like an old wild west town but with a very modern touch. It is full of boutiques, cafes and bars, top
quality restaurants, fine arts and crafts, original music and theatre,
museums,
galleries, bookshops, the famous Fremantle
Markets and the buskers. You can get a cab or
bus to Freo but the best way is by ferry from the Barrack St Jetty. Cost circa $25 return for adults. There’s lots to do here but it left me with the feeling of it being over-pretentious.
Rottnest Island
Based 19km further on than Freo, Rottnest is in the Indian Ocean and is a haven for wildlife & tourists alike who appear to exist in complete harmony. Can be accessed by air ($200 each) or the favoured method of the ferry (circa $60 adult return from Perth) which takes 90 mins. A trip to Rottnest is a must for any visitor to Perth and whilst you can see plenty in one day an overnight stay would make it better (although in peak season you have to go in a ballot for accommodation).
I have hardly done Perth justice with my things to do list but there is only so much that can be done in three days!
***Eating Out***
Perth is truly cosmopolitan when it comes to dining with a vast choice of cuisine. It has a major Asian influence and Chinese, Thai, Malay & Japanese restaurants are plentiful. In addition there are Italian, Burger joints, usual fast food outlets and a surprising number of Irish Bars which all tend to do home cooking.
The Carillon Food Court is highly recommended. Based in Murray St it is a huge complex with lots of different food outlets based around a central hallway with plenty of seating and cheap, but delicious, food.
***Conclusion***
Perth was a fantastic but too short a trip but we packed much in to only 2 ½ days. There is plenty to see for all the family and to be blunt we did not do it justice. Whilst we saw plenty we merely scratched the surface but really enjoyed what was underneath. There are lots of other attractions that someone going for longer can go and see.
Perth is a City that I feel is happy in it’s own skin and does not appear to have any inferiority complexes. It caters for everyone and can be as stimulating or relaxing as you want it. It is a vibrant, friendly place that makes you feel welcome.
It has a great all year round climate (although can get very hot in Summer) and offers great value for money.
The other great thing about it? It’s the gateway to one of the world’s great train journeys, The Indian Pacific, stretching from Perth to Sydney and that’s what we did next. Summary: Give yourself plenty of time to see things and have an idea as to what you want to do before you go.
I already regret missing out on my visit to Perth thanks to Ian Smith and I miss it even more reading your review. !! Excellent review.