Phuket (Thailand)

Last spring my girlfriend and I were planning a holiday. We wanted a destination that offered excitement, cultural diversity, natural beauty and above all was affordable. All our aspirations were answered when we saw a return flight to Phuket from Frankfurt for 350 pounds with Royal Thai Airways. Thailand had always been on our wish list but the flight prices had always been slightly too high. So why so cheap now? Well the basic answer is because May, when we planned to go, is the start of the rainy season, and therefore also the tourist low season. So smitten with the idea of seeing Thailand for the first time we decided to risk the weather and went ahead and booked the holiday for 18 days from the 1st May.

Before we left we tried to find out as much as possible about the state of accommodation and costs of living in Phuket by searching the Internet. I have to say that I have rarely been so impressed as I was by the numerous web sites offering information on Phuket, some of which are updated daily and run by locals living there. Anyone planning to visit would be well advised to check out:

www.go-siam.com

www.phuket.com

At first we were pleasantly surprised to see that most accommodation is actually half priced as from the 1st May. This led to apprehension that in fact we had booked at a terrible time and were going to spend two weeks in our hotel room sheltering from tropical storms and typhoon winds! Still, it was too late and on the 31st April we began our journey.

The journey takes about 17 hours, inclusive of transfer in Bangkok International Airport. For anyone not familiar with long haul flights I would highly recommend taking a warm jumper or even a jacket on the flight, as the air-conditioning is mostly fierce. Be warned that most flights, even long haul are non-smoking these days so if you are a heavy smoker consider some patches or chewing gum to keep you sane. Bangkok airport is also non-smoking with the exception of two or three terrible glass boxes filled with a choking fog of exhaled cigarette smoke by the hundred odd desperate gaspers crammed like sardines into them.

Once we arrived in Phuket it didn’t take long to clear the small airport terminal and then feeling somewhat dazed, jet lagged and bewildered we found ourselves standing on the pavement in 32 degrees of glorious sunshine. Phuket Island is deceptively big and the airport is miles away from all things touristy. We had a choice of taking a private taxi or waiting for enough passengers to fill a mini bus. This option was by far the cheaper and as most people were as confused as us we opted for the bus. We had decided to head for Patong town, which we were informed, was the hub of activity on the island. The journey took about 40 minutes and cost around 600 Baht (12 Pounds) for both of us. Thai’s clearly believe in the after life, and if their driving is anything to go by they are in quite a hurry to get there! Take your dummy or a large bottle of Scotch for this journey.

If you are not too frightened this trip gives you a good opportunity to take in the beautiful nature that you pass through. Phuket’s main industry after tourism is rubber and as you drive along you will pass through many plantations, possibly see your first elephants and see a family of five all on one motorbike!

We spent three nights in Patong at a hotel on the South end called the Patong Beach Resort. Accommodation was simple in semi detached bungalows with air-conditioning, hot water and the hotel had a private pool, but this seemed a little pointless as the sea with crystal blue waters was within five minutes walk. This cost about 1200 Baht per night (20 Pounds) inclusive of breakfast, which we never made it to. Our stay at this hotel was abruptly ended however after we realised that one of the security guards had an interest in watching us through the mosquito netted windows on a nightly basis. This may appeal to the more exhibitionist types but was a little too intrusive for our comfort!

Patong itself is a hive of activity, even in May, with literally thousands of street vendors selling everything imaginable from fake Rolex watches to traditional Thai arts. Prices are cheap by Western standards but for a better deal I would recommend getting out of the very touristy areas. Everything is also negotiable and as you will find out they are actually hurt if you pay the first price they offer. Don’t be afraid to walk away after several minutes of bargaining if you think you can do better elsewhere, they may well come running down the street after you and agree to your price!

The beach is about three kilometres long and is a master peace! Nothing but perfect clean white sand and a beautiful warm (like a bath) ocean. One of the main benefits of visiting in the low season is that the whole beach may only have a few dozen people on it at any one time. By contrast we were told that in the high season you could hardly move on Patong beach.

Eating out in Patong should present no problem, as there is a choice that covers every cuisine style I have ever heard of. Hygiene standards are reasonably high but I would recommend caution when ordering from the street vendors or with eating raw foods. Prices range from the ridiculously cheap vendors (about one pound for a main meal) through to some reasonably expensive but very good restaurants (20 Pounds per head).

Patong is also home to the famous Soi Bangla road, which runs directly off the main beach road and is home to some one thousand bars and clubs! I had originally been a little concerned that this may not be a suitable destination for a couple as this area in particular is famous for it’s sex trade and seedy night life. However, we were both pleasantly surprised. The Thai’s natural and open approach to sex, plus their eagerness to make money from the rich industry, may be over whelming to some, but if you enter with an open mind you will leave with no more then your eyes very wide open and a little wiser!

When we checked out of the Patong Beech Hotel we had decided to try some time a little further a field in a quieter destination. We took a Tuk -Tuk (a small van that acts as a taxi that anyone can get in, even whilst you are in) and headed to Karon beach, the next large beach to the south of Patong. This costs around 350 Baht (seven Pounds) for two people and takes about twenty minutes.

In Karon we checked into a small hotel operated by an American (Eric) called the Karon Café. Again the room was simple but adequate with air-conditioning (by this time we didn’t use it anymore as it encourages colds), hot shower and sat. TV. This cost us around 600 Baht (10 Pounds) inclusive of Breakfast per night.

We were generally much more endeared to Karon then Patong. There is still plenty to do but there is much less hustle and bustle. You can walk comfortably past the vendors without constantly being propositioned and dragged into shops. There are some very good eateries in Karon too. I highly recommend a small Thai run restaurant called the Red Onion. The food is delicious, traditional and a full meal for two might set you back a fiver! For those with a little more cash I cannot recommend highly enough a restaurant called Old Siam. This is a twenty-minute walk down the beach from Karon town and is one of the finest restaurants I have ever been to.

For hospitality with a smile and a laugh call in on John and Mae Lee at the Bar With No Name, play pool, listen to great music and just admire Thailand! Pubs and bars close a little earlier in Karon and there is much less in the way of sex tourism, so if this is your thing you will need to head back to Patong for the evenings,

For some additional activities I can recommend elephant trekking, which starts by the side of the road about half way between Patong and Karon. The ride takes about half and hour and is not cheap at around 700 Baht for two, but hey, where can you do this in Europe? The elephants have all been rescued from dangerous forestry work in the north of Thailand and a well cared for. For a day out with a difference take the speedboat to Koh Phi Phi and Phi Phi Ley. These are two smaller islands about 40 minutes (by fast boat) or two hours (on a bigger boat) that are unmatched in their beauty. It is possible to stay the night on the larger of the two (Koh Phi Phi) but this is quite expensive. Phi Phi Ley is uninhabited and simply paradise! The larger boats are unable to get close enough for you to land so if you can afford the extra for the speedboat – go for it. This is the destination where they filmed the recent Hollywood account of Alex Garlands “The Beach” and I can tell you it is even more amazing in reality.

I realise that this opinion is now getting a little long but I wouldn’t have done it justice without mentioning the Thai people. They are the friendliest nation of people I have ever come across. They say that the Americans invented the service culture but I tell you they learnt it here! Nothing is too much trouble for the Thais and everything is done with genuine hospitality. This in itself is reason enough to fall in love with Thailand as you lose your stresses and strains that you bring with you like baggage from the west in no time, and return home with a different view of life – really! If only we could all learn something from them…..

Well, I hope that this opinion may be of use to anyone planning a visit to Phuket or even swayed you to make Phuket your next destination. The reality is that the best advice I can give is simply; if you haven’t been before, go soon. For me I would always choose the low season over the high season, regardless of my budget. Going at the very beginning of the rainy season or at the very end means you still get decent weather plus all the benefits of cheaper flights, accommodation and also empty beaches and a better picture of the Thais at home. We had perfect weather on all but two days when we actually quite enjoyed the cooling effect of the storms. Perhaps the only disadvantage of this time is that occasionally the authorities fly red flags due to dangerous undercurrents on the beaches. Unless you are keen swimmer who likes to swim way out from the shore I don’t thing this will detract from your fun.

The Thais have a saying that once you have visited Thailand for the first time, you will always return. See you there next May!