I was quite surprised that I am the first to review the Pinkas Synagogue as I believed it was one of the big attractions in Prague which is itself a highly visited city. If this isn't the case then I have one thing to say; it should be!
Originally founded in 1497 by Rabbi Pinkas (hence the name!) and variously rebuilt, restored and altered since then, the Pinkas Synagogue is now a moving Holocaust memorial. Like most eastern cities, Prague had had a large Jewish population and it is estimated that less than 10% survived the second World War. The synagogue is situated beside the old Jewish Cemetery in the Jewish Quarter of the city.
The idea and design of the memorial were that of the painters Václav Bostík (b. 1913) and Jiří John (1923-1972) who created it between 1954 and 1959. The interior of the synagogue was filled with the painted names of all 77,297 victims of the Nazis in Bohemia and Moravia with the date of their death if known and the date of their deportation to the camps if their precise death is
not known which is perhaps the majority. The memorial was shut down in 1968 but restored in 1990 after the fall of the Communist regime and all the names repainted. Consequently there are often people of Czech descent who come here to find the name of a parent, grandparent or other relative who died during the Second World War. Sometimes these people have never been able to find any information on what happened and so the idea of having all the names displayed is a touching one as people can at least see they are remembered and not just wiped out with no trace.
The names are picked out in balck and red and the effect of this is that on first walking into the room I had a sudden flash of blood dripping down the wall. The backdrop for this is the cream white walls of a quite traditional, gothic building with vaulted arches and a stone courtyard. It is a tranquil setting juxtaposed against the violence of the victims lives. I don't doubt this image was due to my knowledge of what the memorial was for but regardless it is an extremely powerful moment to be surrounded by all those names. Despite being written names, this is an extremely visual memorial and brings something of the sheer numbers involved to light as the names keep extending through the rooms.
If my comment about blood on the walls has grotesque associations then that doesn't do justice to the memorial at all. In fact after the initial impact of it, I found this a moving but also classy and composed-there is a touch of the j'accuse about it, a condemnation that these people were allowed to die and many others stood back and allowed it to happen.
Also in the synagogue is the paintings and drawings made by children of the Terezin concentration camp during their time there. It is a reminder of the many young people who were in and often lost their lives to the camps and just the sheer ludicrousy that these children were considered to be worthless because of their birth. Personally I didn't spend as much time here as it didn't touch me in the same way as the main memorial but I still believe that it is a valid memorial to the humanity that existed and couldn't be removed.
There are many holocaust memorials in Europe and it can be possible to get a little cold to them and they just start to pass through you without any real feeling. However, I felt that the Pinkas Synagogue was certainly one of the most powerful-the relatively small and unimposing synagogue that looks like something straight out of the middle ages except for that it has been newly painted conceals a moving interior and is definitely worth visiting.
As this is a holocaust memorial and also a synagogue reasonably respectful dress is required. Men will also be asked to wear a yarmulke (kippa) which are given out at the entrance.
I haven't been to Prague for a number of years now and I read online that the Pinkas Synagogue was one of the buildings badly damaged in flooding in 2002. Although it was restored, the website did note that some of the damage was irreversable although the part of the memorial that was destroyed has been repainted the same as it was previously-perhaps someone who has been more recently could give a more accurate report on the effect the damage has had. I asked this on another review site and have been told that the damage has been largely repaired now.
Practical info: Address:Siroka 3, Prague 1. Take green A line underground to Staromestska or trams 17 or 18 to the same stop Admission: 300 CZK adults, 200 CZK under 16s and students, free to under 6 year olds. Opening Hours: Nov to March 9am to 4:30pm, April to Oct 9am to 6pm, except saturdays and Jewish holidays.
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