In the 60's the Sri Lankan elephant had become endangered.Partly due to farmers killing them to protect their land but mainly because they were hunted for their tusks by poachers.This was outlawed by the government in the 70's & Pinnawella elephant orphanage was started.
Abandoned or injured elephants of all ages are reared here and trained to become working elephants.Some of the young ones are fitted with tracking collars and succesfully released into the wilds of one of many national parks to live their life in freedom.
WHERE:
Situated on route to Kandy the hill district,50 miles from the capital Columbo and just north of Kegalle in the Kegalla District,Pinnawela elephant orphanage is a must see for anyone visiting Sri Lanka.
The time to arrive is noon and unless you stay in a nearby hotel your tour guide or driver will make sure you arrive on time.If you are coming from a coastal resort you will need to set off very early in the morning to beat the rush hour traffic in Columbo.The entrance fee is small and there is an extra charge for video cameras.
FEED TIME FOR BABIES
First port of call is a feeding pen where the baby elephants who still need the nutrition from milk are fed using big bottles.They stand around getting excited ,knowing what they can expect.Some trying to steal more than their quota .This is a good time to take some pictures but there are more photo opportunities yet to come.
JURASSIC PARK
After feed time head back in the direction of the entrance but take a sharp left and follow the well worn path around a small bit of forrest.
As you round the corner you will see a scene reminisent of Jurassic Park.A vast open plain surrounded by lush forrest, dotted with palms and a mountainous backdrop.This is where the herd lives and roams freely.There are fifty to a hundred elephants standing around munching foliage ,waving trunks,rubbing bottoms against trees.The little ones stick to their mothers side or rub themselves against a tree scratching an itch or just mimicing the older ones behaviour.
To see such a large amount of wild elephants in one place is truely magnificent and they look very happy.It is easy to forget that they are wild.They have no human contact apart from a couple of keepers and that is kept to a minimum.Some who have been here a long time may look a bit tamer but in no way is this the aim of the orphanage.This is a good time to take some photographs as they are relaxed but you should not go right up to them.
GIFT SHOP
The orphange has a gift shop which is well worth buying from as a percentage of the money goes to the welfare of the animals and upkeep of the orphanage.
Most of the products are made with locally sourced materials.As well as the traditional wood carvings,batiques, incense and holders the shop offers an unusual array of gifts made from elephant dung.And no it does not smell!!! Elephant dung paper is similar to handmade paper we get in posh shops at home.You can see all the fibres and bits of straw.It makes an original gift for someone back home.
LUNCH
From the orphanage you cross over the road down a crude mud path with tourist shops on either side selling carvings,leather goods,hats,postcards,film for cameras and recently even memory cards for digital cameras.They are well priced.The souvenir shops are a bit pricey but it is possible to barter the price down.If you genuinely think it is too expensive then walk away but do not insult the trader with an unrealistic offer.
At the end of this lane is a river and on its banks are a few restaurants with river view tables,serving a buffett of mainly Sri Lankan curries maybe a few noodle dishes.There is a good selection for vegetarians with ample salads,veg curries and rice.The food is adequate but not the best food you will eat in Sri Lanka.
The toilets are reasonable and should be taken advatage of,make sure you always carry toilet paper with you as you never know if they will have any left.
A PATH WELL TRODDEN!!
As you finish your lunch the elephants begin their walk down the mud path to the river for their afternoon chill out session.The narrow path becomes a thoroughfare of elephants all excitedly trudging to the river with the Mahouts keeping them in check and preventing them wrecking the shop displays.Its like a scene from Jungle Book.
One long standing resident is "Stumpy" who had a foot blown off by a land mine a long time ago.The others treat him with the utmost respect showing true concern and patience,slowing right down if they end up behind him to let him go at his own pace. He is not slow by any means and moves remarkably well.You can spot him from the slightly twisted shape of his spine where the other three legs have compensated for years.
PLAYTIME
This is when the fun begins.The teenage elephants playing in the river casually making there way further and further to the other side,thinking no one has spotted them!!The little ones get led astray and follow the delinquents and soon there is a gang on the far side rubbing their bodies against the dry muddy banks & making for the lush green foliage and the village beyond. Just when they think they have got away with it one of the mahouts shouts a command and they all turn and start running back,caught out yet again they look so comical,just like naughty little children!
The older elephants fill their trunks and shower or lay down in the river for a soak ,some with their trunks entwined like they are best buddies.
The keepers are happy to let you have close ups of the babies for a small fee! You can even stand right next to a baby and pet it while the mahout takes your picture for you.Baby heads feel like sweeping brushes, the type you use for the garden very rough and spikey.
PHOTOGRAPHS
To be honest of the hundreds of shots I have got ( We have been there three times in 5 years)the best ones are the natural ones where the elephants are bathing drinking ,playing.Jurrasic park area is an outstanding place to take pictures as is the river,you dont need a strong zoom as they are right there in front of you.It is possible to walk to the rivers edge and take pictures but don't get to close.
I dont have a fantastic camera its a Nikon Coolpix & the first time we went I only had a very old olympus camera with film in it...But all the picture have come out well and you dont need to be brilliant to get some really good shots here.
This is a breathtaking experience and I would highly recommend it to anyone visiting this beautiful country.
HOW MUCH YOU ASK?
Flight time is 10 3/4 hours Time:+6 hours ahead We traveled with Kuoni and stayed at the Bentota Beach Hotel,Bentota February prices start from : £840 for 5 nights
Much better value are the Ceylon Tours that Kuoni do. Ceylon Tour North 13 nights = 7nights touring, 6 nights beach resort to get over it.This was the one we did last time.Lots of very early morning starts,all the major sights are covered though and when you finally get to your destination beach hotel you look back in amazment at how much you've done in 7 days.
Visas are not required for Irish or British passport holders flying in to Columbo.
Hepatitis A,Meningitis,Polio,Tetanus,Typhoid, vaccinations are recommended and TB for children only.
Stick to bottled water as tap is unsafe even for brushing your teeth.
It is possible to hire an air conditioned minivan with driver and guide for £105 for 4 days.This is a good option as you can go at a more lesuirely pace and stop when you want.
CLIMATE
Very hot sometimes hitting 30 with high humidity if there has been rainfall.Highest rain fall is in the months of October and November.There is always a breeze by the sea .Cooler in the hill district of Kandy where a cardigan in the evenings is a good idea. A hat is an essential item of clothing out there as it is easy to get sun stroke in this heat and also being quite close to the equator the sun is decievingly strong.
If you are planning a trip to Sri Lanka please contact me if you have any questions I would be happy to help..
