A Cypriot haven...

On the south coast of Cyprus – half an hours drive away from busy Pafos on one side, and half an hour’s drive away from noisy Lemesos on the other side, lies Pissouri village. The village is like a pin-prick on the maps, grown as it has, up the sides of a 500 foot high hill.

Of course, the relatively new addition of a motorway has put Pissouri on the map and made access easy. It has also fuelled much discussion that a “modern invasion” could be on its way to steal the tranquil lifestyle of the villagers just as it was stolen from their countrymen in Ayia Napa, in the name of progress, not so very long ago.

Don’t get me wrong, the village is surprisingly welcoming to travellers and the many tavernas and bars would certainly not survive without the tourists’ dollars. My very favourite place to eat is The Bunch of Grapes which was, once upon a time, literally the only place TO eat in Pissouri. Like many of its more recent competitors it serves traditional meze, vine leaves and the grilled meats, kebabs and lamb chops that are prerequisite for any authentic Cypriot meal. You can expect to eat until you burst for about £10 a head in any of them.

But there is something that I haven’t told you about Pissouri. Many many years ago down the hill that is Pissouri village lay a fishing jetty running out into the sea. The jetty is no longer there but in its place has grown another tiny community known as Pissouri Beach.

The enormous colonial-style lobby harbours many sumptuous sofas for afternoon teas and late night drinks, running through to the beautiful Piano Bar and spacious Atrium restaurant. During one memorable stay several years ago during which the rain failed to ease off once in our entire seven day stay we virtually lived in these rooms!

We have stayed in the hotel several times and have experienced it for just bed and breakfast, for half board and for full board. We have always preferred to stay just for bed and breakfast because although both the lunches and dinners served are lovely traditional dishes mixed in with some more “main stream” dishes for those less keen on traditional Cypriot foods, nevertheless we found that the “excuse” to be forced out every night in search of another taverna with anything but a trial. What’s more, breakfast at the hotel is a real treat: the ample buffet with as much fresh orange juice as you choose to squeeze yourself, all taken out on the terrace overlooking the swimming pool can easily keep you fuelled up until your evening meal.

Have I got across the idea that this place is tranquil?? I certainly hope so because if you are looking for nightlife you won’t find any here. Pissouri is for taking things easy and de-stressing, if you are looking to live it up then this is going to be the most boring place on earth to you.

So off you set on your first adventure in your tiny 1990 fiat…take care! The roads are high and winding and the Cypriots know them well so often drive at a rate of knots. Pafos and Lemesos both offer the established bigger city delights, the museums, boat trips, shopping etc that you would expect and you can enjoy any number of restaurants and bars at either.

The other trip that your little tin can must take is up up up into the dramatic Trodos Mountains to the thin air and snowy surrounds of the very highest – Mount Olympus. The journey will take you through the many twisted and tiny vine fields and hamlets that have grown up on the income from the wine they produce. At the top you will find a small tourist area with shops and cafes – but wrap up warm, even in the height of summer snow will have settled at the top!

Maybe Pissouri isn’t safe and a “modern invasion” is on its way: I certainly see more villas springing into life every time I visit. I do hope it doesn’t spoil the genuine welcome that you currently receive from the locals or the tranquillity of a place that whilst very comfortable, still allows the visitor to feel that they are integrated into the normal goings on of a very charming Cypriot village. Maybe you should visit soon, just in case.