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The sweeping Stradun, also known as Placa, is Dubrovnik's main thoroughfare, cutting a pedestrian walkway straight through the Old City. Formed when the narrow channel that seperated the Slavic settlement of Dubrovnik on the mainland from the Roman settlement on the island of Raus was filled ... Read review
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Advantages: Fascinating Walkway through Medieval Dubrovnik Disadvantages: Can be Hard Work in July and August
Dubrovnik, a Unesco World Heritage Site, has now fully recovered from the bitter Serbian and Montenegrin siege of 1991-92 and has been restored to its former splendour. This remarkable former city-state has in its historic centre perhaps the most attractive and well preserved Baroque core of any European city, its swathe of churches, palaces and old stone houses neatly contained within the stone walls that have protected it for centuries. The city ... ...north and the azure waters of the Adriatic to the south. Lord Byron named it ' the pearl in the Adriatic,' and Bernard Shaw said, " Those that seek paradise on earth should seek it in Dubrovnik." Praskipark on numerous occasions has named this city as,' the jewel in Croatia's crown.' All great cities are described using cliches but the words used, corny as they may be, certainly do describe this particular city.
Dubrovnik, a Unesco World Heritage Site, has now fully recovered from the bitter Serbian and Montenegrin siege of 1991-92 and has been restored to its former splendour. This remarkable former city-state has in its historic centre perhaps the most attractive and well preserved Baroque core of any European city, its swathe of churches, palaces and old stone houses neatly contained within the stone walls that have protected it for centuries. The city is sandwiched between a sweep of limestone mountains to the north and the azure waters of the Adriatic to the south. Lord Byron named it ' the pearl in the Adriatic,' and Bernard Shaw said, " Those that seek paradise on earth should seek it in Dubrovnik." Praskipark on numerous occasions has named this city as,' the jewel in Croatia's crown.' All great cities are described using cliches but the words used, corny as they may be, certainly do describe this particular city.
I have been visiting Dubrovnik and Croatia on and off for the last five years and I really love the whole country. I can't wait to get off the plane as soon as it hits the tarmac at Dubrovnik. The smell of eucalyptus and the warm breeze blowing in your face as you step of the plane is breathtaking and every time I return I am just as excited as the first time I visited. I am like a child, full of excitement, can't wait to go out and play. I don't know why I love the city so much because it is overwhelming in summer with the number of visitors and sometimes can be extremely hot. I think because it always looks so perfect - it has looked the same since I was a child when I always had my head in a geography book looking at the brash, colourful pictures of cities and dreamt of all the places I would visit when I was grown up. Dubrovnik was always my favourite city and still is to this day.
For most visitors coming to Dubrovnik, the Old Town and the Stradun, the main thoroughfare, will be the first destination on their hit list.
If travelling by bus, the walk form the bus station takes around 30 minutes to the walls of the Old Town and the Stradun. It is a steep hike and can be quite tiring in the July heat but the walk is pleasant enough with views of the ocean on the right as you approach the Old Town.
The sweeping Stradun, also known as Placa, is Dubrovnik's main thoroughfare, cutting a pedestrian walkway straight through the Old City. Formed when the narrow channel that seperated the Slavic settlement of Dubrovnik on the mainland from the Roman settlement on the island of Raus was filled in during the 12th century, it has survived the disastrous earhquake of 1667 and Serb shelling during the siege of Dubrovnik from 1991 to 1992. Today this smooth limestone walkway, with its melee of attractive shops, cafes, bars and restaurants, buzzes with life throughout the year.
Cafes ---------
There is definitely a cafe culture on the Stradun. As soon as the sun rises many cafe owners can be seen flinging tables and chairs out for the day. You have to be early and quick to find a seat and if you want to spend time watching the world go by then I suggest you stay put because it is definitely first come first served. Usually I am exhausted when I visit the Stradun because I have been travelling from another country or caught a very early morning flight so my first stop is always The Irish Pub. No, not to have a drink but just to sit on the benches outside. The guys who own this pub are very friendly and I have on several occasions nipped round the corner to the best sandwich shop in the world to buy a sandwich, take it back to the pub and just sit outside having my breakfast. Sometimes I buy a Guinness or two but if you just wanted to sit and eat your own food they are fine with this. Inside the Irish Pub is a busy bar which has live football and a lengthy happy hour (from 5pm to 8pm). English is spoken, of course, and it is situated at the corner of the second turning on the right of the Stradun.
If you want to be in with the in crowd and like to pose then go to the Cafe Festival. This busy cafe is housed in one of the Stradun's graceful stone houses and is the place to be seen. During the Dubrovnik Festival, you will have to be quick to snare one of the coveted outside tables.
The Sandwich Shop with No Name ------------------------------------------------
The sandwich shop I have just referred to is a very small shop nestled away in one of the medieval streets. For the life of me I can't remember the name of the shop but if you manage to find it once you will never forget it the next time. It is amazing! I have never seen so many ingredients - various Croatian hams, cheeses, salads, sausages, bacon, sauces, pickles - the list is endless. You can mix as many different flavours as you like and the ingredients are served inside home-made Croatian flat bread which is like a mini flying saucer. It's like eating somehing Wilma would feed Fred. The bread roll is about 5 times the size of an English one (perhaps a slight exaggeration there). Anyway, the rolls are fantastic. If you carry on from the Irish Pub and then take the second street on your left and the first on the right - the shop should be there.
Water Stops ------------------
It is a good idea to carry with you a bottle of water as it is very hot inside these walls. There are a couple of fountains on the Stradun where you can take a drink of water. Onofrio's Large Fountain was damaged in the siege which now has been restored. It was built in the 15th century and was always a place for traveller's to stop and quench their thirst. Also, tucked inside a building by the Rector's Palace there is a smaller fountain, also dating back from the 15th century which often goes unnoticed.
Church of St. Blaise ---------------------------
Dubrovnik's highly revered patron saint, St. Blaise is said to have saved the city from sacking at the hands of the Venetians. He can be seen all over the city but nowhere is he better represented than in this 18th century church dedicated to him. The original 14th century church survived the earthquake largely intact, only to burn down in a fire in 1706. Work started on the present incarnation later the same year. The design was based on plans by an Italian architect, Marino Grapelli, who based the design of the interior on that of a Baroque church in his home town. The stained glass windows are astounding and very unusual as they are not like other windows in churches in these parts. Possibly because they were a 20th century addition. The facade of the church is very ornate consisting of four pillars that are watched over by an array of saints. Allso inside the church is a model of the city showing you how it looked before the earthquake. To be honest, I couldn't really see any difference. This church is situated at the top of the Stradun.
Sponza Palace ---------------------
This masterpece of a building was one to survive the earthquake. If you are a fan of Gothic architecture you will find the exterior quite striking as it is a combination of Gothic and Renaissance architecture. Check out the Gothic windows on the first floor which are flambouyant in the extreme and don't miss the Cloisters. On the second floor you will see a somewhat tubby carving of St. Blaise as he looks down on the Stradun. This 16th century building was once home to the city's Custom House and Mint but now houses the State Archives and a Museum to the Dubrovnik Defenders. Definitely worth a visit if only to walk through the cloisters.
This without any doubt has to be the highlight of any visit to the Stradun. I am only going to briefly mention parts of the monastery that I found interesting. I can't review each attraction in detail as the review would be too long. This is just a glimpse of what you can expect.
The dark cloisters and lush vegetation of this 14th century monastery conjure up echoes of the Dubrovnik of old. When walking through the cloisters you really do feel like you have either stepped back into medieval times or you are a thesbian acting out your Shakesperian role.
Whilst you are in the cloisters check out the frescoes of St. Francis which line the cloisters. They depict the life of this famous saint and all the animals he loved and saved.
The inner courtyard is the perfect place to view the Romanesque, 14th century cloisters (mentioned above) and they are worth scrutinising as the double - pillared columns are very graceful. The best time to view is early morning or late afternoon to avoid the crowds.
Belltower -------------
The dome-topped belltower dominates the western end of the Stradun and you can't miss it. It dates back from the 14th century and features again Gothic and Romanesque elements. It's presence is magical and majestic and towers over the monastery courtyard.
Chuch of St. Francis --------------------------
Most of the original 14th century church was destroyed in the Great Earthquake but the 18th century reconstruction of the lavish marble altars are worth a peep and the ornate organ framed by cherubs is ostentatious but worth a look..
Pharmacy --------------
Inside the monastery is one of the oldest pharmacies and the dispensary is still operational. I found this quite interesting as I like to know about potions and this wasthe original home to a collection of treatments dating from the 15th century.
Before leaving the Monastery take time to visit the Museum as there are a few displays worth looking at.
Monastery Museum --------------------------
On one of the walls is a famous painting of Dubrovnik which reveals how the city looked in Medieval times before the earhquake destroyed most of the city in 1667. Located below the painting is a book which has catalogued the devastation caused by 54 shell hits upon the monastery during the siege.
Nestled in a corner, by a bench near the entrance to the museum, lie the casings of some of the missiles that wrought havoc on this tranquil scene.
In the museum walls two shell holes have been left to serve as reminders of the damage sustained by the monastery. 'Black Tuesday' was the day (6 December, 1991) when Serbian missiles reigned down on Dubrovnik.
As I mentioned earlier about the pharmacy being worth a visit, here in the Museum is a creation of the original pharmacy and you can view row upon row of measuring instruments and traditional remedies, some lethal poisons.
Finally, I better not leave the foot of St. Blaise out. This is the most prized possession in the collection. It is preserved in a boot like gold and silver case. Weird but worth a peek!
Back to the Stradun -----------------------------
As I have mentioned this is the main thoroughfare and as you can imagine there are scores of shops, cafes etc. I don't usually spend a lot of time in the cafes and restaurants as you really do pay over the top and some are pretentious. Apart from Festival Cafe and the Irish Pub, the Gaffe Bar is reasonable. It is a little more refined than the Irish Pub but serves a good pint of Coatian ale.
If you like pizzas than I suggest a visit to Mea Culpa. Here you can savour the most enormous Italian style pizzas I have ever tasted. I mention Italian - style because here they really do taste like a Sicilian Mama would have made them. Not all Croatian pizzas are tasty. This is a favourite with the locals so you can't go wrong. Prices are reasonable and you can either sit inside or outside.
I have just remembered the name of the sandwich shop I mentioned earlier. It is called Skola!
Regarding shopping - if you are into shopping then you can shop until you drop here. Silver jewellery is very popular, silk ties, Croatian wines and spirits, truffles, leather bags, designer clothes. Lots of book shops hidden away in the old streets - some selling antiquated books as well as religious books. There is some tat but a lot of the shops sell high quality goods but shop around and make sure you get a good price.
Just remembered - around the corner from Skola is a good barber shop. My husband always has to have a hair cut in most cities we visit. Don't ask me why - he just does! He was very impressed with this barber - he was a perfectionist according to my husband. He cut his hair with the skill of a surgeon.
Festivals ------------
Two festivals of interest are the Dubrovnik International Film Festival which is usually spread over 5 days in May and shows screenings of Croatian and International films.
Also
Dubrovnik Festival takes place mid July until late August. For over 50 years, stages in historic venues, churches and the open air have filled the old city with theatre, dance and music from around the globe. performances of Shakespeare sell out almost immediately. Here is a link if you wish to book tickets - www. dubrovnik-festival.hr
Well I think that's all I can tell you about the Stradun. There is so much to write about Dubrovnik. It is an enchanting city full of life -and character. If you ever visit Croatia add this city to your 'must see' list.
*First published on Dooyoo*
* A couple of extra photos of the Old Town Walls and Rooftops added*
