Think of Barcelona and what comes to mind…probably Gaudi buildings, the Ramblas, the Olympic Port, the Parque Guell…I’d hazard a guess that Placa de la Virreina wouldn’t be high on your list of priorities. Understandably so, there’s really nothing of note to be found here, no towering cathedral, no great works of art. It is precisely this lack of attractions that makes Placa de la Virreina worth a visit, watch the world go by for a change instead of heading for the sights.
Located in the district of Gracia, Placa de la Virreina, is not on the regular tourist beat. That’s not to say you won’t find tourists here, you will, but alongside them you’ll see plenty of Barcelona residents. Gracia was originally a separate village from Barcelona and only became part of the city in the late 1800s, yet it still retains its distinctive atmosphere. Narrow streets, neighbourhood shops, hidden squares you can easily lose yourself in Gracia, but don’t worry it’s an entirely pleasant experience.
So back to Placa de la Virreina, look on a map and you’ll see it’s more or less in the middle of Gracia. With a church at one end and cafes and old style apartment blocks around the sides, this small pedestrianized square is perfect for that late afternoon beer. There’s three different cafes where you can sit outside and watch the world go by, sunglasses on, a cold beer in front of you. My personal favourite of these is the aptly named, Bar Virreina. The usual range of drinks and a good snack menu, they also sometimes have small exhibitions of local art on the walls. So if the goings on in the square don’t entertain you, you have something else to contemplate.
The square changes during the day, breakfast time is quiet and you can sit alone outside enjoying a coffee and a croissant, watching people set off for their working day. In the early evening the square and the cafés fill up with children playing, locals walking their dogs, students on their way home, weary EFL teachers enjoying a drink. As you sit back and sip your San Miguel, you feel that you really are getting a taste of what it’s like to live the laid back Mediterranean life.
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