Portalegre (Portugal)

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Escaping to Portalegre
A review by jtogando on Portalegre (Portugal)
August 22nd, 2004


Author's product rating:   Portalegre (Portugal) - rated by jtogando

Value for Money  
Sightseeing  
Shopping  
Nightlife  
Ease of getting around  

Advantages: Silence, and Tranquility
Disadvantages: No night life

Recommend to potential buyers: yes 

Full review
Portalegre is a Portuguese small city nearby the border with spain with aproximately 20.000 inhabitants. Capital of High "Alentejo" Portalegre is one of the best place to take a few days. You walk trough the streets, and you'll see happy people who smile and talk to you,even if it's only to say "good morning"... Quite rare these days...

The name Portalegre splits into two Portuguese words: Porto + Alegre (Harbour + happy) Harbour because Portalegre use to a very important comercial point between people from the mountains (noth of the city) and people from the plain areas (south of the city). So it was like an "land harbour". Portalegre is like a border city between those two areas. Alegre (Happy) comes from the beauty of the landscapes. The old name in latin used to be "PORTUS ALACER"

It'a city that you can get to know in two days. you can cross the main arterias of the city and watch beautifull churches like the "Sé" (cathedral) or Igreja de São Lourenço just nearby "Rua do Comércio" a Comercial pedonal street.

Being so near to the Spain border, in the year of 1290, D.Dinis (the Portuguese King) ordered a construction of the city walls with 12 towers and a castle inside. to enter the city there were 7 doors. Now there are only 3 doors left: "porta de Alegrete", porta do Crato" and "porta da Devesa" "porta" is the portuguese word for door. From the castle there are only left 3 towers. In the year of 1550 D João III (the Portuguese King) elevated Portalegre to the status of city for the first time.

In the XVIII century Portalegre becomes the Bishops City and by then there's a strong economical development wich also develops the architectural of the city, getting to the city very important buildings and monuments, wich are very beautifull to see:

- Alegrete and Devesa doors ( Cent. XIII-XIV);
- Castle - Three Towers (Cent. XIII-XIV-XVI);
- Convent of S. Francisco (Cent. XIII-XVI-XVIII);
- Church of Espírito Santo (Cent. XIV-XVI-XVII-XVIII);
- Convent of Sta. Clara (Cent. XIV-XV-XVI-XVII-XX) - actual Biblioteca Municipal;
- Noble house D. Nuno de Sousa - 'manuelinas' windows (Cent. XVI);
- Church from the old 'Misericórdia' (Cent. XVI) - now it's the councils music school;
- Church of Santiago (Cent. XVII-XVIII)
- Sé Catedral (main church - on the photo) (Cent. XVI-XVII-XVIII);
- Bishops house 'Paço Episcopal' (Cent. XVI-XVIII);
- Old Seminary (Cent. XVI-XVIII), now it's the Councils museum;
- Monastery of S. Bernardo (Cent. XVI-XVII-XVIII);
- College of S. Sebastião (Cent. XVII);
- Convent of Sto. Agostinho (Cent. XVII);
- 'Calvário' (Cent. XVII-XVIII);
- Church of S. Lourenço (Cent, XVII-XVIII);
- Church of 'Misericórdia' Main entrance (Cent. XVIII);
- Avillez Palace (Cent. XVIII), actual Civil Government;
- Achioli Palace (Cent. XVIII), actual Escola Superior de Educação;
- Church of Sr. do Bonfim (Cent. XVIII);
- Barahona Palace (Cent. XVIII-XIX), now it's the Portalegre district archive;
- Boneca's Fountanary (Cent. XIX);
- S. Sebastião College (Cent. XVII) - now it's the building for the Portalegre's tapestry manufacturers
- Noble houses in the town centre.

I've seen them all and if you come to Portalegre try to watch as many as you can, just pick a map and flyers information at the tourism office at Rossio or you can call the Regional Tourism Office (Região de Turismo do Norte Alentejano 351 245 300 770) or directly to the Tourism Office (Posto de Turismo de Portalegre 351 245 331 359).
tourism office Timetable:
. from 10h to 18h (Weekdays) Winter
. from 10h to 13h e das 15h às 18h (Weekends) Winter
. from 10h to 19h (Weekdays) Summer
. from 10h to 13h e das 15h às 19h (Weekends) Summer

City day is on the 23rd of May, so take attention, because, shops are closed, and museums might be closed too.

Museums:
There are three museums in Portalegre:

Casa Museu de José Régio
Rua Poeta José Régio
Tel - 351 245 203 625
9.30-12.30 and 14.00-18.00
Closes Mondays

José Régio is a Portuguese Poet from the XX Century and his passion was for collections of crosses, and other religious artifacts, he used to be a teacher in Portalegre, altough he was born in the Noth of Portugal in a small Village 20Km north of Oporto called "Vila do Conde" where he as another museum house as this one. Nice to visit. Don't expect much from the guide (it used to be a very old woman!).

Museu Municipal
Rua J M Rosa
Tel - 351 245 330 616 (ext. 344)
9.30-12.30 and 14.00-18.00
Closes Tuesdays

City Museum, nice to visit, and with several collections from old times, like one of the first cars in Portalegre.

Museu das Tapeçarias
Rua da Figueira
Tel - 351 245 307 980
9.30-13.00 and 14.30-18.00
Closes Wednesdays

Tapestry Museum - The best museum in the city, very modern, it was inaugurated at the year 2001 and it has a very good group of guides that are able to show you the processes of manufacturing of a Portalegre tapestry and they are able to guide you in Portuguese and in English.

I don't have the prices for the museums but as soon has I'll have them I'll add them here!

Now concerning to food, I'll provide a list of regional recipes and those that I know how to translate will be with the possible English name in brackets and also a rank from my self from 1 to 5 of those I've allready tasted.

Sopa de tomate "Tomato Soup" Rated 4
Sopa de batata "Potato Soup"
Sopa de feijão com couve "Beans and Lettuce Soup"
Alhada de cação
Sarapatel Rated 4
Sopa de cachola "cachola's Soup"
Migas Rated 5+

DESERVES
Toucinho do céu Rated 5
Rebuçados de ovos Rated 5
Manjar branco
Lampreia de Portalegre Rated 4
Queijo dourado Rated 4
Miniaturas de amêndoa (queijo, presunto e castanhas) (Cheese, ham and Chestnuts) Rated 3
Queijadas de Portalegre Rated 4
Boleimas (kind of sweet bread) Rated 5
Bolo finto "Finto Cake" Rated 4
Lagartos Rated 4
Pastéis de Santa Clara "Santa Clara Cakes" (with eggs) Rated 5
Amêndoas de Portalegre "Portalegre's Almonds" (in Portugal there's a tradition in easter and everybody eats almonds) Rated 5+

Accomodation is the weak point of Portalegre it only has one hotel (3 Stars):

Hotel D. João III
Av. da Liberdade
7300 - 065 Portalegre
Tel.: 351 245 330 192
Fax.: 351 245 330 444
Rooms with private wc: 49 Doubles, 5 triples and 2 Suites
Prices will be added

PenSão São Pedro Residencial
Rua da Mouraria, 14
7300-142 Portalegre
Tel - 351 245 331 212

PenSão Nova Residencial
Rua 31 de Janeiro, 30
7300-211 Portalegre
Tel - 351 245 351 212

Pensão Quinta da Saúde
7300 Portalegre
Tel - 351 245 202 324
Fax - 351 245 207 234

PenSão Alto Alentejo
Rua 19 de Junho
7300 155 Portalegre
Tel - 351 245 202 290
Fax. 245 330 671

Pensão it's the same as small Inn, for prices (that should be cheap) contact directly to them.

You can also find accomodation in Rural Tourism Houses (very nice family rebuilded houses):

Solar das Avencas
Parque Miguel Bombarda, 11.
7300-107 Portalegre
Tel - 351 245 201 028

Quinta das Varandas
Serra de São Mamede.
7300 Portalegre
Tel - 351 245 208 883

Monte dos Apostolos
Urra
7300 Portalegre
Tel - 351 245 301 180
Fax - 351 245 301 189

This houses are not cheap but they are very nice places to stay ;)

There's also a Camping park, but it only opens in Summer, so don't think on camping!

Night life in Portalegre is very Poor since there only some few (but good) bars, no Discos! But the prices in the night are very VERY cheap!

Some helpfull webs
Tourism - www.rtsm.pt (english version available)
City Hall - www.cm-portalegre.pt
Portuguese Tourism - http://www.portugalinsite.pt English Version very good, Search for Portalegre and in the results, click in Portalegre (alone).

Visiting Portalegre and eating the traditional Migas is a very good option. There you can find how do we leave in Portugal in the cities far from the coast, with peace and tranquility... hope you can come and visit it... I've worked there for three years and it was one of the best places I've found in Portugal...
 


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