Prague (Czech Republic)

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Prague is a magnificent fairy tale city which radiates warm earth tones from its breathtaking painted architecture. Its long history is evident on any street corner and you’ll be spoilt for choice in choosing the main attractions. However, if time is short and you have the determination, strong walking shoes and a good city map you will be rewarded with a fascinating insight into Czech culture.

A BRIEF OVERVIEW
...Vitrus Cathedral. After his death Prague saw unrest with the Thirty Years War in 1618 which famously ended on Charles Bridge as the Czechs repelled the Swedes. But it is the communist remnants of Prague that we see today that is the darkest modern legacy. Ending with Slovakia becoming an independent country with ‘The Velvet Divorce’ in Jan 1993, Prague is still fairly new to the tourist industry, but Europe is fast catching on so I recommend an immediate ... more

Please note: This is a long review, so I’ve labelled the sections to allow you to select what you need.

Prague is a magnificent fairy tale city which radiates warm earth tones from its breathtaking painted architecture. Its long history is evident on any street corner and you’ll be spoilt for choice in choosing the main attractions. However, if time is short and you have the determination, strong walking shoes and a good city map you will be rewarded with a fascinating insight into Czech culture.

A BRIEF OVERVIEW

Prague is an ancient city which can trace its roots back to 400BC to the Celtic tribe of Bohemia, but it wasn’t until 1245 that any real populace took hold when the Jewish ghetto was constructed. In 1346 Charles IV became King of Bohemia and a period of peace reigned with the building of the University and St Vitrus Cathedral. After his death Prague saw unrest with the Thirty Years War in 1618 which famously ended on Charles Bridge as the Czechs repelled the Swedes. But it is the communist remnants of Prague that we see today that is the darkest modern legacy. Ending with Slovakia becoming an independent country with ‘The Velvet Divorce’ in Jan 1993, Prague is still fairly new to the tourist industry, but Europe is fast catching on so I recommend an immediate visit before the chip shops settle in.

GEOGRAPHY SNIPPET

Prague is situated in the valley of the Vltava River and is dominated by the castle set high above the city. Much of what we see today in terms of layout was established by Poemyslid King Otakar II in 1253 when the town was reordered into three administrative districts. This is very useful for navigation as the city maps you find dotted around will obviously be in Czech, but if you learn the areas you will have some sense of orientation. These are; the Castle District (Hradeany), the Lesser Town under the castle (Mala Stana) and the Old Town (Stare Misto). I can’t recommend a street map enough as once you’re away from the throng of the crowd, navigation can be tricky. I used the DK Eyewitness ‘Top 10 Prague’ which was brilliantly concise, lightweight and very practical and was better in every way than the other compact versions on the market. Although this had a useable pull out map at the back, buy a huge laminated fold out tourist map available in our airport terminal shops. The large scale format will make planning your routes much easier.

THE PEOPLE

Our impression of the people was a mixture of overly joyful tourist hunters or the serious, focused locals nipping into town for groceries. You do sense a certain kind of begrudging acceptance of your presence there as if they wouldn’t mind if you’d never arrived, but on the whole we had an undisturbed holiday and the people are courteous and helpful if you need assistance.

ACCOMODATION

We chose our hotel very carefully for both its location and price. We stayed in the 4 star Diplomat Hotel above the castle district which the web based travel agency, Expedia offered a very competitive package including flights. It’s a business hotel so no romantic thrills, but offers easy access to the metro line on which the town centre is a 10 minute trip away. The rooms are similar to a Travel Inn (good quality but everyday furnishings), but it’s the breakfasts that excel. We managed a 5 course start to every day just to be greedy. There is a wide range of accommodation, but staying out of the centre gives you more for your money. To give you some idea, our holiday cost £440 in March for 3 nights B&B with flights.

GETTING AROUND

This really is a question of how brave you are. We were very brave and took the number 12 bus from Praha Ruzyni aiport which terminated right outside Dejvicka (or A line Metro) in front of the hotel. It is extremely cramped (wave goodbye to seeing anything under your chin for 30 minutes) but only costs 24p each. You must buy and validate your ticket in the yellow machines stationed outside the bus stops before you get on. Do not forget to buy one for your luggage if it is large. It costs 8p for your suitcase and you’ll feel like a banana buying one from the machine, but the ticket inspectors will be hot on your case if you don’t. Overall, the ticket system for the Metro and buses is a nightmare which you can avoid by buying a tourist ticket from any manned booth. Our 3 day (72 hour) ticket cost 200 CZK or £4.40 which saves you from worrying about peak period pricing etc. Be careful to buy it when you actually need it because it will timestamp your ticket and the 72 hours count down from that time. Even better, buy what they call a ‘Prague Card’. It can be bought at tourist information centres or major hotels and for about £15 includes over 40 tourist attractions and all transport modes. I recommend you buy this in the UK from the official Czech tourist board (Ciao will not allow web links) but search this out on Yahoo. We tried to buy it in our hotel and even though it was published as being a participant, I got blank looks and we didn’t find the tourist information centre until the last day since it was buried in an alleyway. You will probably save £10 per person if you buy the Prague Card.

Prague Information Service: Betlemske Namesti 2: 12444

METRO

The Metro is fast, efficient and spotlessly clean and I challenge you to wait more than a minute before a carriage slides soundlessly into view. The locals all stare at you without a smile, but never once did we feel threatened or intimidated by the city life here. It’s a doddle to navigate with three lines called A, B and C coloured green, yellow and red respectively. Mustek is the one you’ll use the most being a major interchange and the exit to the old town and main shopping areas. We used it constantly to zip around the city. Keep your underground map handy and there’ll be no excuse for getting lost.

TRAMS

Trams are fun if you’re not worried where you’ll end up or how you get off. They are extremely fast and are difficult to navigate with but with 8 routes covered around the city you have some chance of stumbling across your destination. Your tourist card or Prague Card will cover these which is why we gave them a shot. You can’t beat the hum of electricity and the blue sparks pinging off the cables, but if you want to wait precariously in the road for one, you’re braver than me!

BUSES

Like trams, these run from 4:30am – midnight and twelve night buses cover those routes not covered by trams. Again, the same problem of knowing where the stops are.

DRIVING

Don’t drive. It is not recommended by anyone and even the locals shun the city as much of it is pedestrianised anyway. The hire rates are high and with such cheap public transport in place you’ll only be making life more difficult for yourself.

TAXIS

Many sources recommend AAA taxis (+420 222 333 222) which operate at the government approved pick up fee (30 CZK or 66p) followed by the price per kilometre. Make sure the meter is switched on when you get in to prevent an overpriced lump sum and if travelling outside the city you will need to agree a price beforehand.

SIGHTSEEING

Firstly, if you come in March bring gloves and a warm hat. I felt like I had a frozen kipper strapped to my forehead until I bought a ridiculous grey woolly hat with flappy ear covers and cords down to the shoulders. You will freeze if you don’t wrap up. Also worth noting is the unrelenting cobble stones underfoot the whole day. Even the suburbs have highly decorative paving, so you will need flat shoes with a good grip unless you want to totter in small circles all day.
NB: Be very careful crossing the road as the trams are nearly silent. Only use the zebra crossings and pack yourself into a protective bundle of other tourists. You will never make the other side before the traffic moves on again unless you run. On these crossings there is a ticker noise which gets faster when the green man shows. When the noise slows again, you’re out of time.
TOILETS: All public toilets are chargeable. Budget on between 6p- 17p per visit. They are guarded by stern, silent women who sometimes hand out the paper if there is none in the cubicle. The toilets are kept hygienic in this way, but all are very basic. Do not be surprised to queue at a booth and ask for ‘2 adults please’. You may hear a snicker behind you if English speaking tourists are about.

There are hundreds of places to visit in Prague, but I can only tell you where we’ve been rather than add bits I have no experience of. These are the places we visited.

CHARLES BRIDGE

Begun in 1357 as a work that included the construction of the Castle and St Vitus Cathedral, the bridge replaced the Julita or Judith bridge. What makes this a stunning place to visit is the statues which flank either side of the bridge which date from 1627 through to the latest in 1928. Most are replicas now because of the pollution, but the whole span is very impressive. With stalls and artists set up along the bridge, it has a very French feel to it. Make sure you visit either at sun rise to see it at it’s most beautiful and of course to beat the crowds which make it almost impassable at noon.

PRAGUE CASTLE (Prazsky Hrad) Open 09:00-17:00 Tel: 2437 3368

This is a massive complex and within walking distance of Malostranska Metro station on the A line. It costs £7 to get into everything inside and you must buy a guide book in the shop before you enter as there is nothing to read on the way around. There is an outrageously priced CD audio guide which costs £7 for 1 ½ hours, but the book is fine.

As you walk into the first courtyard, St Vitus Cathedral towers over you and is a gothic work started in 1344 and not completely finished until 1929. Take a walk around the outside and look high up at the guttering to see the gargoyles which were spouting snow melt when we arrived. Every detail of this place is exquisite and in particular the chapel built to hold the relics of St Wenceslas which has hundreds of precious stones inlaid into the walls. The effect, together with the gold leaf and statues is awe inspiring. Plan to arrive as soon as the castle opens as it only takes 20 minutes or so to become crowded.

The ornate tomb of St John of Nepomuk is either a fantastic display of silver work and decoration or the gaudiest jumble of artwork I’ve ever seen. I can’t decide, but either way it is extraordinary and much grander than anything you’ll see in England. The crypt is also an interesting place to enter and since it is only open to ticket holders, it can be quieter than the rest of the church which is freely open to the general public. It has the remains of past kings and queens and is larger than you’d expect. The stained glass is a marvel. After watching all of the other tourists snapping away with their Kodaks we soon followed suit.

On the outside of the cathedral is The Golden Gate representing the Last Judgement from the 14th century. Stand well back and admire the detailed work from the back of the courtyard.

PRAGUE CASTLE – THE OLD ROYAL PALACE

This grand, empty 16th century palace for the kings and princes has one of the best views over the city from an ivy clad latticed bay window. It also has in the same room one of the strangest pieces of green soapstone furniture I’ve seen. If you touch it, an old woman will bite your hand off and you’ll have to leave. Be warned.

PRAGUE CASTLE – ST GEORGE BASILICA

Founded in 920 this Roman style building has a collection of skulls lining the corridor which are hidden so as not to ruin the ambience I presume. It has a romantic Romeo and Juliet type feel to the grand stairs leading to the altar. It has a special hush you can’t find in the Cathedral.

PRAGUE CASTLE – GOLDEN LANE

This is a minute collection of houses inhabited by workmen of the castle in a bygone age. It houses some quaint shops like an authentic reproduction armourer and have a go archery, but the small display of medieval torture equipment was my favourite.

PRAGUE CASTLE – THE TOY MUSEUM

If you continue down the courtyard from the Cathedral and turn left you enter another courtyard with a coffee shop (about £1.50 coffee) and museum. In front of you is a 5/6 storey building housing the toy museum which sounds dull, but which we both really enjoyed. For a £1.50 entrance fee each, we browsed toys of all eras and functions which ranged from bizarre, the dysfunctional to the non-politically correct. The collection is huge and the display of dolls in a manor house setting 20 foot wide would scare Chucky. The best though is the Barbie section from the early concepts through to Army Action Barbie and even Barbie-baby-in-the-tummy which made me queasy. It’s not what you expect to find in Prague and it seemed strange which was part of the appeal.

To sum up the castle section, it is beautiful and shows the best of Prague and is very busy. There are toilets, but I didn’t see any restaurants and it’s more an open door attraction rather than a site set up to cater for you all day. The changing of the guards at noon is worth a look, but this might also be the time to visit the busy bits whilst the tourists are distracted. It’s the most expensive place we visited in Prague, but the sheer scale of the setting makes it worthwhile. Plan for at least half a day.

PETRIN HILL

If you leave the castle by the main courtyard and head straight you come to a quiet road heading steeply up until it reaches a large set of traffic lights. If you head left and follow the signs you come to Strahov Monastery which has its doors open (but not to enter- only view) the amazing interior of the church used by the monks. It’s very dark and rich in pattern and quite different than the castle décor. Around the corner is the entrance to Petrin Hill park and from here you can follow the contours of the land up to the top without losing any high ground. From here there are beautiful views of the city spires and the curve of the river which when seen at sunset glows with russets and golds. It’s quiet up there too and is a good place to escape the multitudes for a while. You can visit the observation tower which is a scaled down version of the Eiffel Tower or the Labyrinth of Mirrors which is popular with the locals. The mirrors won’t fool anyone, but it’s an old fashioned entertainment which suits the area well.

The gardens are extensive, but completely barren when we went and under a foot of snow. There is nothing more for children, but it’s an adventure using the funicular railway. It saves your legs if you approach from the road and is including in your tourist card. Otherwise it’s only 25p or so. Leaving every 15 minutes you won’t need to worry about being stranded and the views again are wonderful.

Also on Petrin Hill if you can find it is a small wooden Ukranian church nestled in the woods. It lies as far west as you can travel down a graduated slope. It was spooky here in the twilight and the suburbs here felt a bit downtown New York, so stick to daylight hours.

OLD TOWN SQUARE (Staromistske Namisti)

This 12th Century town square is where all the tourists head and for good reason. It has the old town hall with the famous astronomical clock. It strikes hourly from 09:00 – 21:00 and the upper half reveals two Apostles at the windows whilst o the right of the clock, a skeleton in robes turns over his hourglass. A large crowd always gathers, but beware of pickpockets in the jostling. Also in the square are the trinket sellers, mostly selling marionettes. They are all overpriced but make good souvenirs. A 30cm model costs about £9 and is not of good quality. If you can afford it, the intricate local folklore characters in the shops around the square are beautifully crafted.

THE JEWISH QUARTER (Josefov) Metro Staromistska or 10 mins walk from the old town square

A ticket costs about £6.50 and allows you entry to the Cemetery, the Jewish Town Hall, Spanish Synagogue and the Old-new Synagogue of the cemetery. As you enter the complex you are met with the names of all of the Jews who died in the holocaust and the enormity of it is staggering. Each list of tiny names covers floor to ceiling and is very humbling. This leads you to the cemetery which is the most crowded collection of graves you’ll see. Thousands of Jews are buried here in a tiny plot of land and it’s a sad sight.
Moving on to the Town House, the upper storey is sardine tight to get around but worth the effort. It shows burial customs from the 18th century along with diaries, utensils and general odds and ends from the period. The Synagogue next door was simply too crowded to get to and we left to find the Spanish one which is a five minute walk away. This one is very dark, covered in velvet and has war memories in glass cabinets along the top balcony. These sites are very sad and show a different, less regal and more humbling side to Prague.

RIVER CRUISE

I cannot remember the tour operators’ name, but many cruises operate along the Vltara and all are similar. We booked ours at the Czech Airlines information desk in Arrivals at Prague Airport as I’d found them on the internet. For £10 each you meet at a designated point and take a mini bus down to the river where you have coffee and cake on board your boat. Up on deck, you have a wonderful view of the castle and Charles Bridge as you drift underneath away from the crowds. Our tour leader spoke broken English in a panicked rush merging several sentences together. Between us we could work out portions, if not then the international nod was used. He took us to the Jewish quarter again and showed us the architecture we missed and then disappeared in a flash leaving us in the old town square. Booking ahead is essential and the tourist offices and hotels will all have information. It’s a different slant and a relaxing break.

FOOD

Heavy, stodgy cheap food is abundant in Prague unless like us you are vegetarian. There is a Tesco at the Mustek metro stop which provides all the basics you need to survive (although sandwiches have not taken off there). As a rule, wherever you go, a three course meal with a drink will cost you roughly £12, whereas a bottle of water is about 20p. One vegetarian restaurant I can recommend is Country Life next to the Old Town Square which serves very good cheap food. We had a main course, a truffle each for pudding and fruit juice for £6 in total. Also very good and comes highly recommended in travel books is Little Buddha on the side street running west of the castle. It’s tricky to find so you will need a map (Uvoz 46, Prague 1 Tel (02) 205 3894) and is a subterranean tearoom serving 51 varieties of tea and a restaurant serving Vietnamese temple food. This is not exclusively vegetarian, but has good choice. Our Japenese tea was served in a wide ceramic pot with a bowl for a cup. I can’t believe I had a tomato juice when there was so much on offer! Our delicious mystery flavoured noodles were served in generous portions and the whole lot only came to £5.50. The atmosphere is what sells it though with the watercolour paintings of Buddha, the incense and the open kitchen in a candlelit setting. It’s a treasure with character.

HANDY TIPS

Carry very small denominations of money for the toilets and food stalls as many places are unwilling to accept larger notes.

If you need food on the go, try the deep fried cheese burgers sold everywhere. £1.50 can buy you a burger, chips and a Pepsi.

Remember that cars/trams use the right hand side of the road. Several near misses kept me from forgetting.

Take a good quality camera and take film with you which is quite expensive to buy once you’re there.

Yes/No - Ano/ne
Please - Pro-seem
Thank you – Dye-ku ji vahm
Toilets - Toa-leti

Overall, Prague is a fabulous city which seems to exist in a bubble. You only need walk a mile out of its centre in any direction to meet the harsh realities of everyday life without the glitz you’ve become accustomed to seeing. It still feels like east meets west in its attitude and its shift into the new world. Experience both sides to appreciate how the patchwork history of this country has come together to become what you see in the streets, buildings and people you see today. It has something for everyone, no matter what type of visitor you are and with so many good offers on the internet today you really can’t afford not to go.

 

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