Kites rise highest against the wind - not with it.. (Winston Churchill)
Kites rise highest against the wind - not with it.. (Winston Churchill)
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We were planning a weekend break away but the first problem was where. I wanted somewhere with historical interest. David had always been fascinated in the culture of Prague. And so, Prague it was.
Knowing we only had limited time in the city, we wanted to ensure that we got as much as possible from the trip as we could. With this in mind, I set about researching the city and its points of interest using the DK Eyewitness Travel Guide to Prague and the many sites available on the Internet particularly (http://www.prague-tourist-information.com/).
We booked the flight and holiday for the cost of 300 pounds each. We could have paid less but we had specific requirements in mind for the trip. CzechAirlines ran a direct flight from Manchester which gave an arrival time of 10.30 a.m. thereby giving us almost a full two and a half days of sightseeing.
We were not to be disappointed. They call Prague, The City of a Thousand Spires. I’m not sure there is a thousand (I never actually counted them) but there are a lot. No matter in which direction you view the skyscape there is always a row of steeples.
Over the past 1000 years, Prague has been the stage for a number of historical political and religious conflicts. The well-trodden cobblestones can tell of Kings, wars and revolutions. .
Sadly, whilst under Communist rule, the city’s monuments appear to have been somewhat neglected.
These splendid statues and buildings, their glory hidden under grubby overcoats of dirt and grime, await the skillful hands of the restorers. There is evidence of the restorers work dotted around and this gives the effect of a patchwork as restored features shine along side their sadder counterparts.
The city is bisected by the river Vltava and linked by a number of bridges. An excellent way of orientating yourself in the city is via one of the many boat trips. These run throughout the day. Large river cruise boats operate one hour, two hour, lunch and supper trips. There is no commentary – so take your guidebook to identify the sites as you pass. These offer great value for money especially the lunch and supper trips. There are also a number of small motor launches with sailor-suited guides eager to carry tourists up and down the river. Our choice was a two-hour trip on a large riverboat (with bar) where we could happily sit back in the warm afternoon sipping strawberry brandy and hot mulled wine.
The city itself is divided into five main districts and can best be explored on foot but be warned, it is not easy and wheelchair users should beware. There are steep slippery slopes. Even when it is dry, a plethora of uneven steps and cobblestone streets make the going very difficult. After a full Saturday of exploring, wandering in out of castles, churches and museums, I was absolutely worn out.
What follows is not an in-depth review of the many attractions in Prague, merely an overview. For specific sites we visited, I will complete individual reviews.
The foremost attractions lie in Hradcany, The Castle District, which dominates the city. It was from here that Prague’s history originated, the seat of Prague’s rulers including Charles IV. Enclosed within the castle walls are a magnificent and atmospheric palace, an impressive cathedral (St Vitus’s), two churches, a monastery and an art gallery. Steep cobbled steps, lined with a wide variety of souvenir stalls, lead upwards to the entrance.
Just below the castle, the Little Quarter (Mala Strana), is rich in Baroque palaces and red-roofed houses. The main attractions of the little quarter are the churches of St. Nicholas and St Thomas that once was the site of a mediaeval brewery.
Charles Bridge, Karluv Most, connects the Little Quarter with the Old Town. It is now pedestrian only and numerous street vendors ply their wares amongst various street entertainers including puppeteers, folk groups, artists and musicians. The length of the bridge is adorned with statues of saints. Most are now replicas, the originals preserved in the National Museum.
Staré Mesto, The Old Town, forms the heart of the city. The large Town square is surrounded by numerous beautiful baroque and Renaissance churches (all open to the public and hosting various concerts) interspersed with tempting restaurants, shops, bars, cafes, and pubs. Overlooking the square is the 15th century Town Hall clock. Every hour on the hour you will be treated to an excellent morality play as 12 tiny saints appear from trap doors to show us the error of our ways, while beneath them Greed, Death and Vanity represent the evils we are subjected to daily – not to be missed.
To the North of the old Town is Josefov, Prague's Jewish ghetto, which was originally surrounded by a wall confining some 375,000 Jews. Over 80,000 were killed during the Holocaust at Terezin and Auschwitz. A unique small and ancient cemetery with over 12,000 tombstones marks the graves of approximately 100,000 people. A harrowing thought.
To the south is Nové Mesto, the New Town, houses Václavské námestí (Wenceslas Square) with the giant memorial of Prince Wenceslas on horseback, the National Theater, The State Opera and the National museum.
Throughout the whole of Prague are numerous souvenir shops all selling pretty much the same wares: Russian Dolls, silver, amber and glass. The basic unit of currency for Prague is the koruna divided into 100 haléru. At the time we visited last weekend, £1 was worth 43 Kc. These rates may vary substantially when you travel. There are a variety of restaurants and cafes serving differing cuisine. A typical Czech dish is pork with potato dumplings and cranberries – delicious. The prices vary but are generally very reasonable.
Entertainment has always played an important part in Prague’s cultural heritage. There are several theatres scattered around the city, the most prominent being the National Theatre in the new Town. Then of course there are the Prague Black Theatres. No visit would be complete without seeing a performance. We took in a breathtaking show at the Image Theatre (review to follow). Classical music abounds – performed in churches, concert halls and theatres on almost every evening and many afternoons. The Prague State Opera presents a full schedule of performances throughout the year. On the night we attended, there was an outstanding performance of Verdi’s Rigaletto, which couldn’t be faulted. There are also various nightclubs catering for every possible taste.
Prague is a wonderful city full of historical interest with treasures on every street. I do fully recommend a visit and I intend to return soon. However, do take longer than a weekend if you possibly can, three days was not enough to see all we would have liked. Wear sensible shoes and expect to be awed and exhausted.
Pictures of Prague (Czech Republic)
Skyscape
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Very informative review, I have been intending to take my family and your review has helped a lot, hope you have been back, I must try that river trip. David
Rijsel.Spirit 03.05.2005 06:17
I went to Prague 5 years ago, with the university: I liked much the city, the reception in the restaurants definitely less... but in 5 years, the things must have improved, and the country joined the EU since then ! Julien
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Advantages: A very beautiful and historic city with plenty to keep you occupied Disadvantages: Can be very crowded and increasing in popularity with stag weekenders
fizzytom 02.02.2004 (28.04.2004)
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