You can survive as a vegetarian in Bavaria. Thanks to Munich's Prinz Myshkin, you can even eat out.
*** Restaurant Review ***
Located in Munich's historic center, a short walk from both Marienplatz and Sendlinger Tor, Prinz Myshkin offers an extensive, all-vegetarian menu in an architecturally impressive setting of vaulted ceilings and open spaces. Prinz Myshkin's ambitious attitude towards vegetarian cuisine is refreshing in a city so often characterized by the stereotypical wurst. The cuisine is primarily comfort-based and while Italian and Indian influences obviously dominate here, Prinz Myshkin's chefs make an effort to showcase vegetarian dishes from other ethnic cuisines as well. Mexican, Greek, Thai, and, oh yes, even German specialties all appear on the lengthy menu (available in English) and on the daily specials board. Several vegan items (prepared without egg or dairy products) are offered as well. Organically produced ingredients are noted, and the wine list includes organic wines from France and Italy.
Though the menu is built around familiar favorites like noodles and gnocchi, many classic standards receive inventive twists. The spinach-ricotta-parmesan gnocchi served in a butter sage sauce were exquisite. The six round nuggets sprinkled with pine nuts and fresh parmesan cheese and served with a small side of fresh greens made for a delicious, albeit filling, meal. Traditional German kaesespaetzle (noodles baked with cheese and onions) were subtly transformed by the fresh arugula that was added to the noodles. Koh Samui, a Thai-inspired coconut curry, played with the sweet and savory, combining fresh banana and pineapple with green peppers, scallions and bean sprouts over rice. More adventurous, less expected items appear as well. The tofu stroganoff, marinated with mushrooms in a Burgundy cream sauce accented with tarragon, bay leaf and juniper berries, challenges any tofu critic's claim that the definitive vegetarian health food has no flavor; the cubes of firm tofu absorb the marinade beautifully. The cream of chestnut soup, offered during the winter months, was nutty and surprisingly light despite the swirl of fresh, whipped cream garnishing the top.
Many dishes are hit or miss, and the menu descriptions and servers' knowledge of the ingredients are not always completely accurate. The pizza mozzarella, which the waitress assured me was made with fresh, water-packed mozzarella, arrived covered in yellowish, square slices of the standard "pizza cheese" ubiquitous in Munich pizzerias. A heavy dusting of dried oregano (not mentioned in the menu's description) obscured the flavor of the fresh basil beneath it, seriously diminishing my enjoyment of a classic favorite. Otherwise palatable dishes such as crespelle al forno, Italian 'crepes' stuffed with spinach and ricotta, suffered under thick, heavy pools of rich sauce and excessive amounts of salt. On one lunch outing, the potato and onion samosa filling looked and tasted nothing like it had at dinner a week earlier. The filling was reminiscent of runny mashed potatoes and I wondered if some of the leftover potato cream soup from the day before had been added. The stark disparity in the quality of the food and service delivered at lunch and at dinner was evident on several visits. While dinner at Prinz Myshkin was always delightful, lunch, more often than not, seemed to be treated as an obligation, only half-heartedly executed by both the kitchen and the front of the house. This is particularly unfortunate at an establishment with so much potential, in a city so in need of gastronomic leaders.
Dessert proved more consistent. The tartufo affogato, easily the highlight of the dessert menu, is an incredible concoction of hazelnut and zabaione ice cream rolled in a chocolate-hazelnut croquant. Served in a large, round glass, the almost baseball-sized tartufo receives a drizzling of freshly-brewed espresso when it arrives at the table. Other homemade ice creams, including maple walnut, cassis and sour cherry are also delicious. A selection of fresh cakes is available daily and usually includes several cheese cakes, fruit tarts and layer cakes, all sweetened with honey instead of refined sugar. The white chocolate amaretto torte was moist, delicious and only slightly sweet. The tiramisu, almost as good as the one a Sicilian friend makes, was well-balanced; the rich mascarpone cream filling and espresso-soaked biscuits satisfied without being overwhelming. The chocolate marzipan torte, however, with its layers of rich chocolate ganache, marzipan filling and layer cake, was a bit over the top; it appeased the sugar craving at a table of four after just a few bites. Ultimately left unfinished, it could have benefitted from some simplification.
Portions are large across the board at Prinz Myshkin. A salad can easily serve two or more as an appetizer, and main courses can also be shared, especially if dessert is part of the plan (which it, of course, should be). Service is usually friendly and English-speaking, though the wait for menus, drinks and the check can tarnish the overall experience. The large dining room is divided into smoking and non-smoking sections; there's no physical barrier against second-hand smoke, but the effort alone offers hope that notoriously smoky German restaurants and cafes may be slowly becoming more hospitable to non-smoking guests.
Despite some inconsistencies, Cafe Restaurant Prinz Myshkin offers one of Munich's most enjoyable dining experiences. The menu offers enough variety to please both vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike; the setting is elegant but relaxed, and the prices are reasonable. It's already one of Munich's tastiest destinations. With a little polish, it could become one of its rare culinary jewels.
****************** Update, July 2003:
I've been living in Munich for two years now and the early inconsistancies in food and service at Prinz Myshkin have only become more common. Both food and service have been on a gradual but steady decline and a meal here usually ends with a hollow feeling of disappointment rather than the excitement and satisfaction I experienced on my earlier visits. That's too bad since the place still has so much potential. Compared with Munich's other full-service vegetarian restaurants, Prinz Myshkin is still your best bet--and you may like it just fine...if your expectations aren't very high.
Down to 3 stars from my original rating of 4 out of 5 stars. Appetizers start around EUR 4.00. Main dishes start around EUR 8.00 and are also available as half portions. Desserts range from around EUR 2.00-8.50
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