----------IN GENERAL---------- Leuven is Belgium’s most famous student city. Almost 40 000 students live in this little town. So when it comes down to pubs in Belgium, Leuven is legendary. Basically, the town is one big pub. In this relatively small town you will find almost 200 pubs, each with their own specialty. And the great thing about it is that the town is so small you can reach most of them on foot.
Other reasons why Leuven is the ultimate pub town:
* Closing hour? Never heard of it. After a long night you can even see kids going to school in the morning when you’re leaving the pub. A friend of mine never goes to bed before 5am, and never gets up before 1 pm. (and for the more curious among you, yes, she is only a couple of months from graduating)
* Beers! One advice: try as many beers as you can. You’ll never have that much choice, and certainly not at that price. My favourites: Hougaerdse Das, Rodenbach, Orval, Leffe blond. Just don’t try them all the first night you get here as Americans do. Believe me, a ride in an ambulance is not cheap. (and I know)
* Fights? Never heard of it. During two years in Leuven I didn’t see a single fight. I just saw one punch, and I gave it myself. Because the
town is populated with thousands of students and fewer inhabitants, the atmosphere is very relaxed. Compared to other student cities like Ghent, Brussels or Antwerp, Leuven is a haven of peace. The only places where there are fights are “Den Exit” (more on this pub in the section “Pubs you don’t want to go to”) and “De Bierkelder” (meet students who have failed every single exam in the past four years, handicapped gigolos, alcoholic cab drivers, or postmen having a beer after their early round). Also there can be some trouble during the weekends, when foreigners take over the place.
* Scenery! Leuven is an old and beautiful city. The historical centre has been well protected through the years. The “Oude Markt” (old market that is), is considered the most picturesque market of Belgium. Imagine sitting in an outdoor café during the summer, on a beautiful old marketplace, drinking a good trappist… hmmmmm… Beside the “Oude Markt” you should also visit the “Grote Markt” (literally big market) where the beautiful town hall is situated. Finally, on the “Ladeuze” square lies what in my opinion is the most beautiful building of Leuven: the library.
* Fakbars These are pubs owned and patronized by students. Each faculty has its own “fakbar”. Usually they are quite dirty (very dirty to be honest), service is poor, but prices are student-friendly and the party goes on till no-one stands on his feet anymore. Most famous “fakbars”: - “Dulci” for economists: if you feel like drinking, drinking and more drinking; a recent survey showed that the top 3 missing things in the “Dulci” were 1) cute women 2) clean toilets 3) handsome men - “HDR” for Law students: unfortunately, they serve Cristal, which doesn’t match Stella - “Gelule” for Pharmacy students: most Pharmacy students are girls, which explains the popularity of this bar
----------MY FAVOURITE PUBS----------
Party pubs ========
De Verbeelding ------------------ In English this pub would be called “The imagination”. The specificity of “De Verbeelding” is that it is located in a cave. This makes the place very warm, in both senses of the word. You will love this pub for its sofas, the cheap gin on Mondays, the blonde barmaid, and the song “As the bottle runs dry” (the ultimate drunk song) at 5am in the morning when you’re still sitting drunk at the bar, not realizing all your friends have already gone to bed. Minor disadvantages: the music can sometimes play very loud, and some people can feel uncomfortable because of the cave. Claustrophobics beware!
Lazy pubs =======
La Bodeguita ---------------- La Bodeguita is a small Cuban pub. It was opened only a year and a half ago, by a Cuban inhabitant of Leuven. I love this pub because it’s very cozy. The interior is very tasteful, the barman friendly and the music relaxing. If you like South and Central American music like me, you shouldn’t miss this pub.
De Blauwe Kater --------------------- Jazz and blues lovers, this will be without a doubt your favourite pub in Leuven. “The Blue Tomcat” is very dark and small, the perfect place to drink a good trappist and listen to Buddy Guy singing the blues. It’s recommended not to go there on Thursdays though, as “De Blauwe Kater” is so small it is filled in a blink of an eye. (Thursday is the biggest night out in Leuven) Another disadvantage is the prices unfortunately. Most beers cost on average 20 eurocents more than in other pubs.
De Reynaert --------------- Named after a legendary fox of the Flemish medieval literature, “De Reynaert” is an institution in Leuven when it comes down to quality music and beer. The beer and juices menu is extremely comprehensive. This is the pub you need to go to have a drink and a chat with your friends, but when the group is too big for “La Bodeguita” or “De Blauwe Kater”. Just don’t go to “De Reynaert” on Thursdays (just like “De Blauwe Kater”, it’s a victim of its own success), or when Anderlecht or the Red Devils are playing. Despite the usually poor performances of our teams, the pub will be chockfull. I remember once I couldn’t even open the door!
La Paz -------- “La Paz” is a brand-new pub, started by Elvi, one of Leuven’s most popular barmen. The women love Elvi for his sex appeal (so I have heard), but we men like Elvi because of his musical taste: Bob Dylan, Led Zeppelin, John Hiatt, Manu Chao, … everything Elvi puts on is 100% quality guaranteed. The guy is also very generous. I remember when he was working in a previous pub (“De Weerelt”), I arrived one night alone, at 5am, and pissed off after a very bad week. I had a chat until 6:30am with Elvi, and all the time I got more drinks for free than I could handle! Apart from the music and Elvi’s generosity you will also appreciate the interior decoration. Really tasteful!
----------PUBS YOU DON’T WANT TO GO TO----------
Den Exit ----------- What’s in a name. “Den Exit” is a typical pub for what we call “Johnny’s and Marina’s”. Expect loud music, aggressive looking guys dressed in white trousers and girls with way too much make-up on. This is one of the rare pubs in Leuven where there are fights regularly. The bouncer at the door says it all.
*update note* According to the feedback I got, “Johnny’s and Marina’s” should be known in the UK as “Sharons and Kevins”.
Den Boule ------------- Don’t try to enter this pub without wearing Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren or Polo Sport. People will stare at you and wonder why they’re letting vagabonds in. This is the pub for students who got a BMW 3 series or a VW Golf from daddy at their 18th birthday, and who genuinely believe they have more class than anyone else. We refer to them as “fils-à-papa”…
*update note* Apparently, the female version of a “fils-à-papa” is known in the UK as “Daddy’s girl”. The clientele would be known as “Yahs”, “Rahs”, “Hoorays”, “Henrys” or “Sloanes”.
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Hello,
I live in Leuven and like to say: very nice article, captures my hometown in very much of its aspects. Someone wondered what the music-style in Leuven is: because there are lots of students in Leuven there are a lot of cafés who play alternative music (lounge, deephouse, jazz). In dancecafés (e.g. exit, mangé, de rector) they mostly play pop,r'n'b, and sadly enough dancemusic (commercial crap). We have two great clubs: silo (www.silo.be) and musicafé (www.fataal.be). Here you can find great deephouse/ funky house and techno events. Pratically all cafés prefer alternative music and for the beerlovers: the 'oude markt' is called "the largest bar in the world". Greetings from Belgium.
signals 21.09.2003 18:29
Good write and great info. Belgium is known for it's strong beers. Loved the title!
torr 24.08.2003 16:56
In all the many times I've been to/through Belgium, I've never stopped in Leuven. Sounds like that was a mistake. Thanks for the tip.
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