A few kilometres north of Varmahlid on Iceland's Rte 75 is what's reckoned to be the best folk museum of its type in the northern half of the country. Strange then, that it isn’t the one that appears on all the postcards. It's not like it's that much of a detour. If you're heading north clockwise on Rte 1 you will pass through Varmahlid… and if you're not… then make the detour anyway. Perhaps it's because I work in housing and construction, but I wasn't burdened with any of the preconceptions of my fellow travellers, who had assumed that turf houses would be cold and damp, and who were ...
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