Apparently it's very chic to visit Reykjavik these days, but it was simple curiosity that attracted me to a 3-night break in the city. The promise of geysers and waterfalls was enticing, and the deal was pretty cheap (arranged via the Guardian newspaper). The reality? Reykjavik is well worth a visit, but it might not quite conform to all your expectations. For a start, it's a very small city. Iceland's population is tiny anyway, but its capital (though by far the largest settlement in the country) is cosy by UK standards. It's a bit like a frontier town (comparisons with the TV show 'Northern Exposure' constantly sprang to mind), and it's not a beautiful city by any means, but what the heck? You are within easy reach of spectacular landscape, an endless vista of volcanic eruptions and techtonic plates ripping through the countryside. There are, indeed, geysers and hot springs (check out the wisps of steam rising surreally from the ground), and in the centre of town, bars and clubs enough to satisfy the most dedicated groover. The downsides: it is VERY expensive. Alcohol costs a small fortune (though everyone drinks, and hard, but food is also extremely pricey. It's much more expensive than the UK, so for even a short break you need to be well-financed. The weather is unpredicatable in winter (we were there in November), with little daylight. It's not particularly cold but it is drizzly and changeable. And if you want to eat out at one of the few good restaurants, take a tip and book first, otherwise you won't be able to get into anywhere except McDonald's. But on the up-side, there are lots of shops, especially clothing stores (designer gear is very cheap, apparently). The church is amazing, with its vast, sweeping spire making it look a bit like Concorde perched on its tail. Everyone speaks English, and the Icelanders have a very dry sense of humour. And there is one of the world's strangest museums: the Phallological Museum, with some very strange exhibits. PS Don't miss the chance to swim in the Blue Lagoon - a natural outdoor hot spring packed with minerals which keeps you beautifully warm even when it's pouring with rain - like swimming in a giant hot bath!
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![Iceland's Favourite Places Reykjavik&The Golden Circle [DVD]](http://picnica.ciao.com/uk/101841802.jpg "Iceland's Favourite Places Reykjavik&The Golden Circle [DVD]")
Aug 4th, 2000
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