What would you do? Cut a great road through the law to get after the Devil?
>I'd cut down every...
What would you do? Cut a great road through the law to get after the Devil?
>I'd cut down every law in England to do that.
Oh? And when the last law was down, and the Devil turned round on you -
where would you hide...the laws all being flat?
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Our hostess for the trip from Tallinn to Riga was Svetlana, a well-nourished Russian girl with an innate inability to smile. After subjecting us to a number of icy gazes of differing intensities; from refrigerator (which in hindsight seemed almost friendly) right up to Siberian-death-winter, she was courteous enough to read out the half dozen pages of rules and regulations for the five hour coach trip over the tannoy in English, expressly for our benefit. Bless her. Other people's beaurocracy makes me smile.
>> If you’re keeping up with this Baltic Binge, you’ll know that this was a journey I was undertaking with my long suffering travel amigo, "Mexican" Adey. He's not really Mexican, he is in fact half Irish, however this is apocryphal to our tale. This missive is the third instalment of a trip which took place in September 2000. I originally wrote this opinion in March 2001 and have revamped and reworked it as well as adding some more info in April 2002. Designed to appeal to those in pursuit of knowledge as well as the armchair traveller. >>
…NOBODY SUSPECTED A THING We arrived in Riga around five-ish in bright sunshine. It was indeed a different prospect from homelier Tallinn and more that a little intimidating. I guess some times new places are. Don't know what it was, it just seemed more "urban".
It was right about now that things began to go wrong. "Be strong", I should have said to myself. "Stick to your principles", "be confident, for you are seldom wrong". I should have allowed my confidence to massage my ego, or something similarly Freudian... But no. Mais non, as they might have said in France. I allowed myself to be swayed. Persuaded. Cajoled, if you will. And therein lies nought but despair.
>> Riga is essentially a city of two parts, the old town and the new. The old town contains architecture representing centuries of history, all frantically being renovated as the city moved towards its 800 year anniversary (this was celebrated in August 2001).
Buildings such as St. Peters Church, the Swedish Gate and the thirteenth century Rigas Dom Cathedral are well worth a visit and with much renovation being carried out as we were watching, the history of the region seemed almost
palpable. All around the compact centre of the Old Town are outstanding examples of 17th century Germanic and older gothic buildings like the often photographed (except not by me) Three Brothers, one of which is the oldest house in Latvia, dating from the 15th century.
Another highlight is the Meeting House of the Blackheads, which at the time was itself being renovated for the anniversary celebrations. The blackheads were some shady Knights Templar kind of organisation, all funny handshakes and bizarre trousers. >>
THE BEST LAID PLANS After we landed at the bust station, I wanted to head for what appeared to be the centre of the city, have a quick look around, perhaps check out the tourist info. I liked my plan. It was a good plan. But, just across the river, intoned the Adester, is the Riga Technical University, where one can secure sleeping accommodation for the bargain price of 3 Lat each (aprox. 4 GBP). Sounded groovy. Actually it sounded like a piece of $h1t, but I kept my doubts to myself and we headed for the bridge.
So we hiked across the huge cantilevered Akmens Bridge that spanned the Daugava River carrying not only pedestrians but cars, trolleybuses and I think trams as well. At the other side was a grimy suburb that looked singularly down at heel, and certainly not the kind of place you'd find a Technical University.
The Black Book (the Lonely Planet guide which, in the wrong hands, is evil) said quite clearly it was adjacent to the the first bus stop on the far side of the bridge. So we walked up and down the street for a frustrating half hour between stops looking puzzled in the extreme and in the end, finding nothing.
Ade was toting a Rough Guide so we double checked both guide books - they contradicted each other when describing the location of this accursed university, the Rough Guide favouring the more distant Vansu Bridge as crossing point. The horrible realisation had begun to dawn on us. There were two bridges we could have chosen. We picked the wrong one. A fifty-fifty choice and WE PICKED THE WRONG DAMN BRIDGE.
>> Further away from the centre of the old town you can enjoy just ambling round the city streets. Here the buildings, both residential and commercial are more modern: prime examples of Eisenstein's Jungendstil architecture, in the 19th century Art Nouveau style. The joy is that you can't miss it because it's literally all around you. >>
...A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT Now the river had, as rivers are wont, a large bend in it - the upshot being that the two bridges diverged as they spanned the river. on the city side they were just a few hundred metres apart. On this side however.... you get the picture? Well, after several hours tramping round the bleak, twilight world of Soviet-style tower blocks and other assorted monochrome features, we reached the second bridge, but still no sign of this blasted university.
That was it as far as I was concerned. I sat down on a wall outside some grey municipal building on the intersection of two purposeful looking main roads and in the falling dusk decided to have a darn good sulk. Possibly including, but not limited to, pouting and muttering.
Thankfully, the rather bewildered looking chap we accosted soon after spoke a little English and volunteered to guide us in the right direction, convinced that we were visiting Lebanese students. We had in fact walked straight past the university - it was on an island in the middle of the river (near the second bridge) hidden by a small wood - obviously. The campus was a dump. If we'd wandered into something that looked such a sorry state back home, me and Ade would have run away like the big girls blouses we surely are. However, we are seasoned travellers and while abroad, experiences like this are meat and drink to us.
>> Perhaps because it divides neatly in two and if you'll forgive the cliché, Riga really is a city of contrasts. The new part of town had grey concrete Soviet planning tattooed across it and to gain a full appreciation of this unique city it has to be experienced. The concrete tower blocks are well and truly in evidence, but there are more things worth seeing. The giant sign that greets you on the road into town is awe-inspiring as is the Bolshevik statue which dominates the city square, Strelnieku Laukums.
My favourite part of the new town was the market, located next to the bus and rail station, actually inside converted Zeppelin hangars! I love walking round markets
Pictures of Riga (Latvia)
Bolshi Statue
and this one is a doozy. Although for some reason you couldn't take photographs indoors. Go figure? One things for sure, there's plenty of good eating going on in Riga - whether your average Rigan could afford it though, I couldn't say. >> WELCOME TO THE HOTEL MAFIOSO The aged old crone sat at the desk eyed us quizzically as we entered the supposed accommodation block of the Technical University. She spoke no English. We gesticulated enthusiastically. She eyed us like we were morons. We felt like morons. There were no rooms. Not for us Lebanese scum any way. We left. "Where's the Tram, Ade? We're going back over the river."
Some hours later, our final destination turned out to be Hotel Mafioso (real name: Hotel Kia). It featured copious guards who were dressed in black and carrying worryingly efficient and spectacularly deadly looking sidearms. They glowered at us as we wandered in looking like deadbeats. One chap, who appeared disconcertingly Aryan, fixed us with a smug gaze as we set down our backpacks and slumped on the check-in desk and with great relish told us how much our room was going to cost.
It was somewhat more expensive than the Technical University.After a quick punch up to settle our differences (there must've been an air of latent violence with all these "heavies" around!) and then a replenishing shower in our en-suite bathroom, Ade and I strolled the mile or so back into the old town for dinner, our escapade all but forgotten. The place was attractive and bustling, the food was good and after a long day, a beer was welcome. All, indeed, was right with the world again.
SUM UPPANCE It was on reflection that I decided I liked Riga very much. Overall it seems a friendly place, if reserved towards strangers and there’s still an undefinable air of Eastern Bloc tension from somewhere that I found just added to the spice. I like the majestic old buildings, the old town, mid-renovation at the time so constantly in flux, the nasty Soviet style housing projects and the Zeppelin hangars.
In many ways it is the epitome of the modern Europeancapital city, with much in common with Helsinki, Berlin, Madrid or Lisbon. Here you can see beautiful people walking along the sidewalks, chatting on mobile phones, shopping in fashionable boutiques or drinking Latte in bijou cafes. Considering it has been little more than a decade since the region shrugged of the Soviet way of life and embraced more "Western" habits, the insouciance with which the people appear to have accepted this change, with all its inherent advantages and disadvantages is surprising to say the least.
FACTS YOU NEED There is most definitely a tourist infrastructure there but as of September 2000, tourism had yet to really take hold - so finding a place to stay (if you haven't pre-booked already) may mean the expenditure of a little shoe leather. However the public transport, if you can figure out the timetables, is cheap and convenient.
Accommodation at a range of standards is available, from Hostel (hint: not the Riga Technical University despite what the guide books say) to multi-star Hotels, and generally isn't prohibitively expensive. I stayed at what I would describe as a mid-range (just about 3* hotel) which cost 45 Lat, around 50 quid for a twin room.
Needless to say transport links between the Baltic states are good (bus is the more convenient) and cheap. You can even catch the bus all the way home to the UK, should you feel so inclined.
A POSTCARD-SIZED SUMMARY Very interesting, plenty to see. Friendly if reserved locals (the more gregarious among you may fare better than I, conversation-wise). OK for budget travel. Good food. You can get by speaking English and smiling. A smattering of German and or Russian may either help or for historic reasons it may hinder...
LINKS Riga In Your Pocket - Travel Guide: http://www.inyourpocket.com/Latvia/Riga_home.shtml Official City Guide: www.eunet.lv/Riga/ Riga, City of Inspiration: www.riga800.lv/en/index.asp Latvia Hotels: www.allhotels.lv/?reg=1&page=first.php&l=en&lim=20
Some Photos: www.geocities.com/paiceyjohn/Riga.html
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Advantages: Cheap, friendly place to visit, interesting architecture. Disadvantages: Might not last too long in its current state. Freezing cold in winter.
TheDuke 10.03.2006 ·
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Review of Riga (Latvia)
Advantages: Lots to do and see, snow in the winter, fairly cheap to eat/drink, cheap flights available from RyanAir. Disadvantages: Very very very very cold in the winter, Things are Difficult to Find.
HannahBoo 17.03.2006 (17.03.2006)
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Review of Riga (Latvia)
Mar 19th, 2001
(May 8th, 2002)
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