Ristorante Orologio, Lugano

The Orologio occupies the ground floor of a buff-colored building with restrained detailing and leaded-glass windows. The restaurant has 19th-century French-provincial chairs and an ice chest displaying salads and condiments. Amusing illustrations advertise the dishes -- a mermaid draws your attention to the fish courses, although the menu features more meat courses. In September and October there's an emphasis on game and mushroom dishes such as the filet of venison with porcini mushrooms or the platter of venison for two. Pheasant dishes are also well prepared. Of all the restaurants we've recommended in Lugano, this one draws the most mixed reaction. Some locals swear by it and some foreign visitors sound its praise; others would have preferred to be sent elsewhere.