Look halfway down the front of the boot shape that is Italy on a map and you will find Rome. Perhaps one of the greatest capital cities in the world, this ancient site is spread both sides of the River Tiber, as it meanders its way down to the Tyrrhenian Sea, about 15 miles away.

We took a 3 day break and crammed as much in as we could, (Hence the previous two rather short ops on the sites of the city. If only I had found this single classification for Rome before trying to talk about each place I'd visited, I might not have put forward such short - you may have noticed that I'm usually more gobby than that - and seemingly uninspired opinions. Still. I've pacakaged them all together here, which should make for easier reading, and hopefully fewer potential just "helpful" votes :-)

Rome itself is quite a small city, but it has some 300 palaces and almost the same amount of churches crammed into to it. Not to mention the ruins of imperial Rome, various gardens and parks, the government offices, presidential houses, banks, businesses, hotels, shops, cafes, restaurants, bars and general nightlufe. It therefore follows that this is a BUSY place.

**The People.**

The Romans themselves are oblivious to the noise and bustle, taking everything in their cool and elegant strides, and also taking for granted the beauty that surrounds their everyday lives. We found them to be very friendly people, slightly confused by our accents and assuming that we would either be Australian or South African. For such passionate people, they are surprisingly patient. Being stuffed into the buses as you travel round can be quite an experience, as the mass of human bodies makes for an apparently impenetrable obstacle between you and the doors. There's lots of "mi scusi" -ing to be done as people ease their way out, but it's all done with good humour and polite gestures. British reticence fits in well here and I haven't been made to feel like an apologising freak, unlike other European cities I've visited!

I found them fascinating to watch, as they really do talk with their hands. I'm far more used to it now, being a West Ham fan and devotee of Paolo Di Canio, but there is much arm waving, gesticulating, and although I don't understand Italian, I could tell that their language was filled with passionate descriptions and insults! I've decided to learn more about it so that next time I can fully enjoy my eavesdropping.

** Brief History (Very brief. I have never been able to take in the full impact that Imperialist Rome had on the rest of the world, so I would suggest watching both "I, Claudius" and the film "Gladiator" as a more entertaining way of finding out).**

Legend has it that Romulus and Remus (parents: Mars and a Vestal Virgin) were abandoned on the Palantine Hill, found, reared by a she-wolf and Romulus went on to found the city of Rome. History itself backs up the claim that the site and probable date of 753 BC are correct. It is much older than that as a place of general human habitation, however, as Archaeologists have discovered settlements on that hill, plus the surrounding ones, that have been established as going back to the Bronze Age (approx 1500 BC). At some point, all the villages merged into a single city and a wall was constructed around them to form the basis of Rome as it is today.

Some historical events worthy of notes, and taken from my daughter's Encyclopaedia:-

753 BC - Founding of Rome.
49 BC - Julius Caeser seizes power.
44 BC - Julius Caeser assassinated in Rome.
27 BC - Augustus becomes first Roman Emperor.
64 AD - Persecution of Christians begins.
476 AD - End of Western Roman Empire.
1508 - Michelangelo paints Sistine Chapel ceiling.
1798 - Napolean's Troops enter Rome and establish a republic.
1814 - Pope restored with Austrian Rule.
1871 - Rome made capital of Italy (Imperial capital had moved to Byzantium 331)
1922 - Mussolini starts the Fascist movement by marching on Rome.
1929 - Treaty is drawn up creating the separate Vatican State.
1944 - Allies liberate Rome.

** What to See. **

Where to start, more like! Well, this bit's tough because there is SO much to take in, but the major highlights would have to be The Roman Forum, Campidoglio, Colosseum, St Peters Basilica, Vatican Museums, Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona, and the Pantheon. Having said that, there's also the Castel Sant' Angelo, the Imperial Way, all the wonderful Piazzas that proliferate - Rome has no one great central square, they are all set in and around each other like a great jigsaw - and the River Tiber itself. And don't forget the churches. Or the palaces. One thing is for certain, you need more than the 3 days we had in order to see everything. Rome shouldn't be rushed through.

My personal highlights were: -

The Trevi Fountain, even though it was being cleaned and worked on so only visible in parts behind boards and netting! This magnificently huge and visually spectacular fountain is out of all proportion to the square that it resides in. It's an amazing sight. Known as the Fontana di Trevi, it is actually the original palace facade and triumphal arch to the old Palazzo Poli. There is a massive figure of Neptune, who is riding on a sea shell that is being drawn by horses. One horse is rearing, symbolising the strength and power of the sea, whilst the calmer one represents it's tranquility. This is a very busy spot, even at night when it's illuminated, but the thing about the Trevi Fountain is that this is the one where you're supposed to throw a coin in over your shoulder to ensure that you return to Rome. The money is supposed to be collected by the Roman municipal council, but that's only if they can beat the local kids to it first!

The Vatican City was another eye opener and jaw dropper, but for two contrasting reasons. On the walk up to the city gates, where you can see the splendour inside, you are confronted by street beggars and pitiful children kissing tourists hands and asking for money. It's hard to tell the difference between those that need the help, and those who do this simply as a way of conning money out of compassionate visitors. We'd been advised not to give money to anyone who was begging, but it was hard. Very hard.

The vast square inside the city is quite breathtakingly beautiful in itself. There are individual fountains surrounded by a massive colonnade that have statues of important figures residing on the top. We felt particularly privileged to be there as we'd managed to go on a Sunday morning, and soak up the atmosphere among many devoted catholic worshippers. I was just in wonder at all the people who had turned out to visit when I heard a large roar start to swell up. I turned to my husband who was pointing at a balcony and grinning. It was the Pope. It was the Pope and he was giving a service, how surreal did that feel??!! Apparently the room that he appears from is his bedroom, and I couldn't get the image of him in his vestments at the window, giving blessings, with his stripey pyjama bottoms hidden from public view. (My apologies to any catholics who find that offensive). To this day I don't know how regularly that kind of thing happens, but it was an absolute pleasure to witness it all.

St Peter's Basilica is splendour in the extreme. Ornate to the point of being well over the top, this is the personification of the wealth, power and general status of the catholic regligion. I was marvelling at the paintings that adorned the walls, but something wasn't quite right about them, and as I got closer to them I suddenly realised that they weren't paintings at all, but mosaics. I have never seen such skilled workmanship before, nor had I realised that nature provided stones with such a inifite range of shades and tones of colours. It was so intrincately worked, that even folds in clothing were convincingly portrayed. Absolutely staggering. I also saw Michelangelo's sublime Pieta - Mary with the dead Jesus laid in her lap - which he sculpted at a very early stage in his career. This is one of only a handful of works which he actually signed. There is also a large bronze statue to St. Peter, where the toes have been worn to practically nothing by the reverential visitors over the many centuries. In the centre of the church is the huge canopy from where the Pope celebrates mass. This is aboslutely massive, and has four spiralling columns made from bronze taken from the Pantheon. A very effective method of recycling! Beyond all this is the Cathedra, which houses the throne that reputedly incorporates the original wooden chair used by St. Peter himself. I think you can go up into the dome itself and see the views around Rome, but not being very good with heights I didn't actually do it. Underneath the floor, you have the Vatican Grottoes, full of little chapels. There was an area being excavated when I went and we weren't allowed too much further, but it's still worth a visit down there.

One point: You must have suitably respectful clothing on to enter the church. You'll be refused (politely) admittance if you aren't dressed properly.

I also managed to squeeze in a quick visit to the Sistine Chapel which is an absolute must. Here you'll find the famous painting of Adam's finger as he reaches out towards God. I was gobsmacked when I learned that Michelangelo painted all of this lying on his back, the surface inches from his face, with no preparations for working out perspective. Apparently he just got on with it. Mindboggling stuff!

The Colesseum is another Must See. This vast and eerie place is set rather incongruously now in a very busy part of the city, but the age and majesty of the place manages to rise above the trivial life that buzzes around it. Eavesdropping on a tourist guide's explanations, apparently the vast scale of persecution carried out here was towards animals as opposed to christians. I wasn't sure whether I believed him or not because Hollywood had already implanted in my mind the many scenes of people being put to death here. I'm sure that some of that did happen, but apparently it was also used to pit Gladiators against lions, tigers and such on a more frequent basis. As we walked through and into the skeleton of the building, I could imagine that that would have been just as terrifying to witness. You can walk round the corridors, looking through to the massive arena, which because of the many years of natural and man-made disasters, now also lets you look through to beneath where the floor once was. You can see the remains of pens and cells in the maze of corridors, and this is where the animal/people were kept before being released to provide that day's entertainments. There was something else that I hadn't actually been aware of, and that's that the arena would be flooded with water, and naval battles were re-enacted for the masses.

Those are just my personal highlights, and I haven't even mentioned the beauty of the hills that surround Rome, the calming gardens set in the middle of all this hub-bub or the sight of the city at night.

Just to wrap this up, here are some handy tips to help you get more enjoyment out of your visit here, and hopefully help you to avoid some of the stressful aspects.

** AIR TRAVEL**

The main airport is the Leonard da Vinci (known as Fiumicino), which is served by frequent flights from Europe. From London to Rome takes just over 2 hours.

** TRAVELLING BY CAR **

You can take the coast road to Rome without leaving the motorway, and the huge ring motorway is called the Grande Raccordo Anulare. You'll need to have an International Driving Permit or valid national license, car registration papers, a green card extension to your regular insurance policy, breakdown warning accessories and a national identity sticker for your car. When we went, it was explained that Speed Limits in Italy are based on the car engine size, so I'd suggest you check with the AA or RAC to find out how fast your car entitles you to go. You have to drive on the right here, and pass on the left, but loads of laws are ignored so just be very, very careful and alert. Tolls are taken at each section of the motorway by the taking of a ticket and paying at a booth according to the distance you have travelled. Speeding fines have to be paid on the spot, and usually to the police who patrol the areas on motorbikes, and always ask for a recipt. When driving in Rome, don't act politely - don't be reckless either - but you just don't concede your ground by waving on or letting someone cut in in front of you. As bizarre as it sounds, no-one likes it!

** WEATHER **

June to September ranges from Hot to Very Hot. Because this is a busy city, you should take this into consideration if you are upset by smoggy atmospheres. Spring and Autumn are pleasant and mild, even though Rome can experience cold weather just like the rest of us.

** ACCOMMODATION **

There are many sorts of hotels to suit many depths of pockets. If you want rtizy places, you'll find these in abundance, the same goes for cheaper accommodation. Other than price, the other thing to consider is location. Try to get a near to the centre of the historical city as you can, any price hikes should be levelled out by not having to pay for transport costs when out and about.

** SCOOTER HIRE **

Available pretty much anywhere, but you must be 21 years old or over.

** CRIME **

As with anywhere these days, you have to be vigilent. Take special care with handbags or snatchable goods, and it's well known that these can be ripped off unsuspecting tourists by people on scooters. Pickpockets are another real pest, and I have to say that my husband was almost a victim of this by, wait for it, two girls no older than 5. They will kiss your hand and cuddle you to distract you, and he was lucky to feel the button on his rear trouser pocket being undone.

** SHOPPING **

Don't forget to allow for afternoon siesta time. This is when the shops will close for a couple of hours, but then reopen and stay open long into the evening. The best bargains that I found were the leather goods, although some careful shopping will also help you find out of the way clothes shops that have some fantastically original styles. Pretty much always elegant though.

** TIPPING **

This is customary, and all sorts of people rely on them. For example, Porters, Maids, Toilet Attendents, Waiters, Taxi Drivers, Tour Guides, Garage Attendents... Between 10%-15% should be allowed on bills for this.

** TIME DIFFERENCE **

Plus 1 hour from GMT.

**** Just to finish, I've not mentioned the Circus Maximus and Campo De Fiore here as I didn't want to cheat the people who had rated these opinions seprately on my other two categories! ****

Rome. Ah wonderful, romantic Rome. I chucked my coin in the fountain, so I will go back. Definitely.