Rome is one of those places I’ve always wanted to see, and so I was ever so slightly jealous when my brother went last summer, followed swiftly by my parents when it was their Silver Wedding Anniversary in October. They all came back with tales of what a wonderful time they’d had and so I sat and listened and pretended not to be in the slightest bit jealous…. I’m not totally sure they were convinced.
Then in December, out of the blue, my boyfriend asked me if I could be free the first week in February, as he’d found cheap flights to Rome on the Internet and wanted to book them as my birthday present. As you can imagine, I didn’t need asking twice (I always knew there was a good reason for loving him!!) and before I knew it, Christmas had come and gone, and I was packing for a five night stay in the chilly early February climate of Rome.
As we were flying Ryan Air, this wasn’t as easy as it may sound because they only allow you to check in 15kg of luggage (and 10kg of hand luggage), which is a bit of a problem for a person who likes to pack for every eventuality, but after a bit of careful rearranging, I headed for the airport feeling confident that I was prepared for the most common holiday problems, and, more importantly, would actually be allowed to board the plane.
Getting Around
We touched down at Ciampino Airport (the smaller of the two airports in Rome) several hours later, and as it was late, decided to get a taxi to our hotel, which was situated close to the Termini in central Rome. This cost us just over €40, which was expensive but at that time of night was well worth it. During the day however, it is far more reasonable to get the bus to the metro and then to get a train into the centre of the city.
Just a note on taxis as well, when my parents visited Rome in October 2004, they used a taxi to get from the Termini to their hotel and got charged a ridiculous amount to go less than a mile. This was because it was not an official white taxi, but a private vehicle, so if you do use a taxi to get about, ensure that it is an official white (or occasionally yellow) taxi or you may well get ripped off!!
As we arrived quite late on Sunday night, we planned to take Monday fairly easy and give ourselves chance to get our bearings. My parents had recommended taking the red City Sightseeing tour bus around, as they had done on their first day, which costs €10 for a two day ticket and covers most of the major sights. However, it didn’t all go to plan and we ended up just wandering around and seeing a few sights on foot.
In fact as it happened,
we didn’t set foot on a bus or metro train whilst in Rome. My boyfriend, in his wisdom, decided we should try and walk everywhere and I foolishly agreed, in spite of my feet’s efforts to protest. While it was tiring, and not something I would recommend to most people, especially those with any sense, it was a very nice way to see the city and soak up the atmosphere. We got to take in a wide variety of smaller sights we would never have come across traveling on a bus.
Also, as it was the beginning of February, it was only around 6-10°C during the day and as most days were sunny it was very pleasant wandering around on foot, provided we were wrapped up warm (gloves were definitely necessary!!). It also avoided the overcrowded public transport system, which can only be a good thing.
As far as the crowds are concerned generally though, early February is a very good time to see Rome. From what my family said, it is considerably quieter than October and, bliss when compared to the hoards of people who visit during the late spring and summer months. In fact, at practically all the major sights we walked in and out unhindered by queuing. It was only on our visit to the Sistine chapel that we encountered any large crowds at all.
The only down side to February, was that it did go very cold at night. Our hotel was well heated so sleeping wasn’t a problem, but once five o’clock came and the sun had gone down, there was a definite need for winter woolies if you were out and about.
Eating in Rome
Looking at what other people have said about food in Rome, I am inclined to agree. Meals are often expensive, and rarely worth the money, especially if you sit close to the main tourist attractions. I would however recommend visiting Trastevere in the evening. Situated on the other side of the river, we found the food to be of a higher quality and more reasonable price than in restaurants closer to our hotel. It was also a little more atmospheric than other parts of Rome at night on the chilly February evenings.
At lunchtime, it was easier to find more reasonably priced food in places slightly away from the tourist attractions. Cold sandwiches and Paninis are served in most cafes and bars, and for cheap food on the go, if you pop into one of the many small supermarkets dotted around Rome, you will probably find that they will make a sandwich up for you at the deli counter. We did this on several occasions to avoid the ridiculously inflated prices charged in food vans outside the famous attractions.
Supermarkets are also far more reasonable for buying drinks, outside the Colosseum, we asked the price of a small bottle of water and were told €4, in a nearby supermarket we got it for 80 cents, crazy!!
Places to see
Looking back on our trip to Rome, the experience that stands out the most was visiting THE VATICAN. The size and splendor of St Peter’s Basilica really is overwhelming. I found myself marveling at how on earth such an enormous building was ever constructed, and was completely unable to fathom how much it must have cost. It is quite amazing to see that such a place exists.
I was also persuaded to climb the steps to the top of the dome and see the Basilica from a totally different perspective, which was well worth the effort. It cost €4 to climb up the stairs and €6 for the privilege of using the lift, but there are still a fair few steps to climb when the lift ends so it is not suitable for anybody who finds steps a problem (although sometimes I count myself in this category!)
After viewing the inside of the building from the dome, you can continue your ascent further to take in the marvelous views of Rome from the top of the Basilica. These are truly breath taking, and the view of St. Peter’s square from above is quite spectacular. The stairs that take you up to the roof however, are quite tricky in places and the passageways become quite narrow. I found it a little claustrophobic at times, and can see how it might be some people’s worst nightmare! If you can cope with the climb though it really is worth all the effort.
THE VATICAN MUSEUM, which includes the SISTINE CHAPEL, would also be at the top of my recommendations list. This is situated a fifteen minute walk away from St Peter’s, around the walls of the Vatican City, and is sometimes only open in the morning, so it is worth going early. When we visited we saw very little of what the museum had to offer, you could spend days in there seeing everything and we simply didn’t have the time. Of the things that we managed to cram into our trip there, I found the Gallery of Maps to be particularly impressive and we sat for a good half hour marveling at the work in the Sistine chapel.
Not too far away from the Vatican stands the CASTEL SANT’ ANGELO, built by Hadrian. It is worth visiting partly because of the wonderful views of Rome across the river, but also because it houses an interesting museum to enlighten you about the history of the sight throughout the ages.
Probably one of the most famous sights of Rome is the COLOSSEUM, it can also be one of the most expensive places to visit given the price of the food and drink sold in its shadow and the number of people trying to encourage you to have a photo taken with a Roman Centurion for the ‘bargain’ price of €10 (with your own camera I might add). But putting the cynical tourist in me aside, it is a fascinating place to visit and if you decide to pay to go in, it is well worth parting with a few extra Euros for the guided tour. Ours lasted about 40mins and the guide spoke excellent English, and considering we had a guy in our group who asked some of the most bizarre questions, she seemed to have an incredible depth of knowledge about the place.
Adjacent to the Colosseum is the ARCH OF CONSTANTINE, which is worthy of note and also the ROMAN FORUM. I would have liked to learn more about the history of the forum while we were there but in the five days we were there we just didn’t find the time.
A five-minute or so walk away from the Colosseum is what remains of the CIRCUS MAXIMUS, today there is not much left to see, it is really just a grassed area where people seem to walk their dogs. Using your imagination you can envisage how it might have looked in ancient times, but it is not a sight I would recommend going out of your way to include in your itinerary.
Some of the large churches in Rome are truly fantastic, and there are so many smaller ones dotted around everywhere that have their own surprises to discover. The wealth of the Catholic Church throughout the ages is demonstrated so many times in Rome, and the first sight we took in on our trip, SANTA MARIAMAGGIORE, was a perfect example of this. The 4th largest church in Rome, it is a truly awe-inspiring building. And I would also recommend heading to the PIAZZA del POPOLO to take in the twin churches, Santa Maria in Montesanto and Santa Maria dei Miracoli.
Rome’s cathedral, SAN GIOVANNI in LATERANO, is also well worth a visit. A huge building that was originally the site of the Pope’s residence before the Vatican was completed. It is situated a little distance away from some of the more famous tourist sights though, so I wouldn’t necessarily make it a priority.
Many ancient buildings were converted to Christian places of worship following the Roman Emperor’s conversion to Christianity, and the PANTHEON is a lasting example of this. Built by Hadrian (he was a busy man!), the building’s exterior certainly looks its age, but it quite amazing inside. There was a fair bit of scaffolding up when we visited which was a shame, but necessary I suppose!
Not very far from the Pantheon are the SPANISH STEPS, which I didn’t find to be especially spectacular, but there are some nice views from the top. We saw them early in the evening just as the sun was disappearing which was quite romantic, but ruined somewhat by traders trying tirelessly to force you to buy red roses, I always feel quite rude ignoring people, but it is the only way to get them to go away!
The TREVI FOUNTAIN suffers from the same problems but is another romantic spot after dark. The fountain look very beautiful lit up at night and there was hardly anybody else there when we visited, which sounds as though it was a bit of a luxury listening to the experiences of other visitors. It wasn’t the easiest of places to find as it just appears as you wander down the narrow streets but I think this adds to its charm.
After three and a half days of constant walking,, I was a little reluctant when my boyfriend suggested visiting the CAPITOLINE MUSEUMS on our last afternoon in Rome, but after a little gentle persuasion and the promise that my feet could have a well earned rest in the café after an hour or so of wandering, I softened to the idea. And I have to say, I’m very glad I did, as there were some fascinating rooms and artifacts in the museum. The highlight, in my opinion, was a wonderful Escher exhibition, which sadly isn’t a permanent fixture, but there were any number of other interesting exhibits that make a visit worthwhile as well.
On our last morning in Rome, we decided not to venture too far from our hotel, but this only served to show us just how much of the city we had yet to discover. Not far from where we were staying was the BASILICA of SANTA MARIA DEGLI ANGELI, which exists on the site of the Baths of Diocletian, and was designed by Michelangelo. From the outside, it looks little more than a ruin, but inside it is quite amazing and so much bigger than you would expect looking at the entrance to the building. There was also an interesting history of the site set up in a small room in the church.
The last few hours we spent in Rome demonstrated just how much there is to see besides the most famous of the sights, and while I was glad to be heading home that afternoon to give my feet a day or two’s rest, I’m convinced that I could return to Rome any number of times and still find new and interesting sights to see.
Whatever time of year you get chance to go to see Rome; I wouldn’t hesitate to take up the opportunity. While February had the advantage of being relatively quiet and the temperatures were more suited to sightseeing than the oppressive summer heat would be, the nights are rather chilly and there are few people about after dark, and while I didn’t really feel too inclined to stay up late after a long day of walking, I’d imagine the atmosphere on summer evenings in Rome have their own delights to offer even if the streets are a little more crowded by day.
I had a wonderful time in Rome, and loved virtually everything I saw. I really hope to return one day and find out a little more about a truly breathtaking city.
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Off to Rome next month - very helpful review! Thanks, Kat.
Chellers 08.08.2005 19:57
Great review and great help. I'm planning on going to Rome and this is the best review of the place i've read so far!
Princess_Wonkle 02.06.2005 04:23
Great review, loads of info. I might be touring thru italy with the orchestra I'm in, so the information here will come in very handy indeed :o) Em x x x
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Advantages: Beautiful City, lots of English speaking Italians, good food and excellent wine Disadvantages: Highly overpriced and expensive, not good with the current economic climate
becky_tredget 10.04.2009 (07.03.2009)
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Review of Rome (Italy)
Advantages: coffee to die for, food to die for, architecture to..get the picture? Disadvantages: The graffiti, bad pavements and those skinny Italian women..ggrrrrr
Emma1973 26.03.2005 (28.03.2005)
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Review of Rome (Italy)
Advantages: History, lots of things too see and so, food, amazing museums, Gelato Disadvantages: Too much to see, crowded around major sight, fear of being pickpocketed
gard 18.09.2005 ·
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Ciao members have rated this review on average: exceptional
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