You might find me on the other side ... that's likeitis
You might find me on the other side ... that's likeitis
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When we were visiting the Costa del Sol at the end of May, we decided to take a day-trip to RONDA. Of course, being situated so very close to the concrete jungle of the Costa del Crime, 50km or around an hour's drive, coupled with the fact that the town is stunningly scenic, means that we weren't the only ones with this in mind. IT GETS VERY BUSY. Never mind. It was the first full day of our holiday, so we were up at the crack of dawn (almost) and half-way there before most tour buses had even struggled out of their cosy garages.
RONDA is literally jam-packed with history and is one of Andalucia's most visited towns. It hangs, precipitously, atop a plateau which commands wide vistas in all directions. Such a position was always going to be a natural choice for settlement, and so it proved to be. It's been settled since prehistoric times and was well development during the Roman occupation. But it was during the Moorish period when the town blossomed, and continued to do so after the eventual Catholic re-conquests. All a bit before my time.
The drive from the coast up to Ronda (770m above sea level) is through a series of steep climbs and hairpin bends along a winding mountain road which, although in good condition and reasonably wide, is still quite time-consuming, especially if you're stuck behind a slow-moving truck. It does have its compensations, however. Some of the
scenery is pretty spectacular and if it's clear enough, you can see the coastline of Africa if you look behind you (not advisable when driving). Eventually, you arrive on the plateau and level(ish) ground again.
On approaching Ronda, it's hard not to be impressed by its situation. The town stops dramatically at the edge of tall, sheer cliffs and you wonder exactly how you'll be able to drive up to it. Actually, it was pretty easy - so much for first impressions.
We parked the car very close to the centre of town and strolled off to see the sights. Ronda consists of two very distinct quarters (shouldn't that really be halves?) - the old and the new. Don't get carried away now, the 'new' quarter is mainly 18th century so 'new' is a relative term. The two areas are divided very neatly by a gaping chasm called El Tajo through which the River Guadalevín flows. This, and the 'new' bridge that crosses the gorge is probably one of the most photographed sites in this part of the world. The views down into the gorge are breathtaking and with the buildings clinging precariously on the knife-edge of cliff, it's pretty impressive. Apparently, the views looking up from the bottom of the gorge are quite good too, but only a fool would walk all the way down just to walk all the way back up again...
...After we had walked all the way to the 13th century Puerto de Almocábar, and then followed the ancient town walls all the way down towards the C11th 'old' bridge, we walked, or rather climbed, back up again pausing not to admire the views, but to gasp for breath.
Everywhere you look in the old town there is something to see. The buildings are steeped in history and literally reek of ancient times. Almost all the places worth seeing are in this part of town: churches, palaces, monuments, town hall, museums etc. and it's pretty compact so it's possible to see quite a lot in a short time. However, wander off the main north-south drag, and it becomes quite an ordeal - the streets are really steep and when the sun pokes through, the heat can make it fairly uncomfortable.
There are several museums in the old town, including: A Hunting Museum, an Art Museum and the Municipal Museum. We didn't visit any of those. We did, however, visit the MUSEO del BANDOLERO (Museum of Bandits).
This is the only museum in Spain concerning this subject and was really quite interesting. It's not huge and can be seen in under an hour, but it was very enjoyable. Apparently, this area was not free from bandits until the 1930's and there are lots of photographs of the last of these 'romantic' characters after they had been hunted down and, in most cases, executed. I was amazed at the collection of books, comics and magazines that dealt with the subject - in a way, I was reminded of the legends of the American Wild West, the romantisising of what were essentially thieves, kidnappers, cut-throats and murderers. I was a bit dubious of visiting it, thinking it would be rather sparse and tacky, but it was thoroughly enjoyable. My one quibble was that there could have been more multi-lingual explanations of the displays - only the most basic information was in English.
Another museum, this time just across the bridge in the 'new' town, is the Bullfighting Museum. Ronda is famous for its bullring - apparently it's the oldest, and some say the most beautiful in Spain. The arena itself is also the country's largest. It's open to visitors (when they're not slaughtering bulls) and the adjoining museum houses many mementos of Spain's most famous bullfighters, including Pedro Romero - the man credited with turning bullfighting from a ritualised slaughter into an 'art-form'...albeit an art-form encompassing blood and gore. I don't get my jollies from watching dumb beasts being slowly killed to satisfy anyone's blood-lust, so I'll be jiggered if I'm contributing a solitary, shiny, sin-sangre eurocent to the 'sport'. We didn't visit.
The 'new' town is where you'll find most of the shops, bars and restaurants. There are a few in the old town, scattered around, but these generally cater only to tourists and consequently are on the expensive side.
After our visit around the old town, we had a stroll around the shops of the new town, stopping for occasional refreshments (of a non-alcoholic variety...*frown*) and a seat in the shade. The shopping is good, with a good mix of local, everyday shopping and plenty of opportunities for day-trippers. Many of the shops have retained the feel of more leisurely, bygone age, with store-fronts dating from 100 years ago. Very nice.
We stopped for a spot of lunch at one of the many pavement cafes which line the plazas and side streets. It seemed to me that the speciality in these parts was a selection of tapas as a main course with almost every restaurant and bar offering a 'tapa tipico' dish. I couldn't resist and for around € 7-8, I treated myself to all sorts of scrummy nibbles...¡Delicioso!
After lunch, we had a promenade around the edge of the cliff near the Parador and through some lovely tree-lined parks which led to the mirador and some spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. That'll do nicely, I thought. Incidentally, the ubiquitous McDonald's is situated in a prime location next door to the Parador, but the town council in their wisdom have prevented them from raping the townscape with their usual garish display of corporate decor (it's not just the food that's 'taste-free' at McD's) - all there is is a very small 'golden arch' thingy - not much bigger than a dinner plate. Blink and you'd miss it (although I for one wouldn't miss McD's)
RONDA is one of those gems of a town. I don't know if you could spend more than a day there without running out of things to do, but as a day-trip destination it has everything - history, culture, fantastic architecture, eating and drinking, good shopping, natural attractions and...well that's about it - it's enough, isn't it?
We arrived there just after 9am and nothing much was open. However, this gave us a chance to have a good wander around in relative solitude. By around 11am, convoys of buses were disgorging hordes of snap-happy visitors and by lunch-time, you could hardly move in the place and that makes for a far less enjoyable experience. If you ever go, take my advice and go early, you'll thank me for it.
Cheers
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We propose some unforgettable holidays in "El Capistrano Villages", in Nerja, the privileged balcony of the Costa del Sol. "El Capistrano Villages" is, possibly, the most beautiful and exclusive Urbanisation on the Costa del Sol.
Advantages: Plenty to see and do around Jimena De La Frontera - not for kids though. Good roads Disadvantages: None that I can think of but maybe a lot depends on your accommodation
BNibbles 15.11.2005 ·
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