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Antoni Gaudí was neither the first nor the last architect to work on the Sagrada Família, but his name will forever be associated with the gargantuan project. In 1926, during the construction of the gigantic church, Gaudí was run over and killed by a number 30 tram. When the ambulance arrived, no one knew who he was.
An immensely sad story to kick off this opinion, but the tale of the "Church of the Holy Family" begins when Gaudí was still in his teens. In 1869, a devout Catholic bookseller decided to found a church for working class families. (This explains why it was known as the "Cathedral of the Poor" for a while.) A central plot was to be donated by a rich duchess, but she died unexpectedly, so a site further northeast had to be chosen. The architect Francisco de Paula del Villar offered to draw plans for free, and the first stone was laid in 1882. However, disagreements arose and Gaudí officially took over the next year.
Gaudí completed Villar's neogothic crypt but his Expressionist style gradually started to dominate. By the time of La Pedrera's completion, he was completely engrossed in the project, living in the crypt among scale models and plans. Gaudí wanted to theme each part of the church differently, drawing inspiration from his enduring Catholic faith and admiration for Mother Nature. His sudden death left the project in a limbo - construction was put on hold, and a fire destroyed most of the original preparatory photographs and drawings. Works have begun again, but 3 quarters of a century after Gaudí's death, the church remains unfinished, with only 8 of the 12 planned towers (4 above each façade, one for each apostle) in place.
The Sagrada Família has its very own Metro station. It's open to visitors year round, from 9 AM to early evening, except on Christmas Day and New Year's Day. Admission costs around 500ptas (~£2.00) and is reduced significantly for groups.
From afar, it could be mistaken for a construction site, with massive cranes poking out behind the 4 tallest completed bell towers. The central tower, dedicated to Christ, is yet to be built, but will measure 170m tall. While you're queuing for entry, admire the west-facing Passion Façade. This was not started until 1952, and the very un-Gaudí-esque hard lines and marked geometric shapes represent the death of Jesus. The crucified Christ hangs over the door, and Bible characters like the thieves and mocking soldiers can be recognised around Him. The columns resemble bones. A curious magic square is inscribed into the stone next to the door.
The Nativity Façade is the façade of Hope, deliberately built to face the east and the rising sun. A plethora of religious references can be found here: 3 doors relating to the virtues of Faith, Hope and Charity; baby Jesus with the ox and mule; the Adoration of the Magi. Hundreds of plant and animal species are carved into the stone in amazing detail, reflecting Gaudí's depth of research for the Sagrada Família. He was obsessed with imitating forms of nature, and assistants made hundreds of scale models, drawings and photographs of plants, animals and human bodies.
The Glory Façade, when built, will be the main façade, dedicated to the glory of Christ.
Inside the church, one finds the Central Nave... and loads of construction workers! The supporting columns are ingeniously designed to reproduce the effect of a forest; the upper sections are split into extraordinarily efficient 'branches' - another example of Gaudí's natural observation.
Spiral staircases wind almost all the way up the main bell towers. For a small charge, lifts can take you halfway up! My group took the brave option and trekked up the 350-odd steps to the very top, pausing to take in the glorious panoramic views of
Barcelona. ("I can see my house from here!!!" LOL) The journey was tiring but well worth it - whenever I see a picture of the Sagrada Família nowadays, I recall enthusiastically that I was right up there in that pointy bit :)
As well as containing chapels, the huge underground crypt houses an exhibition, featuring Gaudí's surviving drawings and other interesting artefacts. Magnificent scale models of the catenary arch structures employed by Gaudí are installed, as well as multimedia demonstrations. Other architects who have worked on the church are also profiled.
Every part of the Sagrada Família could be considered a project on its own, such is its brilliance on so many levels. Gaudí applied all the structural innovations that he developed and investigated over his lifetime to the building. He would have hated the fact that his building has become a commercial tourist attraction, and not a religious symbol that he devoted his final years to. Perhaps the Sagrada Família is destined to remain unfinished, as the authorities seek to keep its myth alive...
Meisterwerk, obra maestra, masterpiece - whatever description you wish to use, experience the Sagrada Família for yourself!
Links:
www.sagradafamilia.org - the official and flashy site (thankfully completed, unlike its real life counterpart!)
NB. This is the 4th instalment of my BS series. For the introduction, please kindly turn to "BS Uno - The Odyssey Begins"; general information on Barcelona is scattered throughout the series. Thanks for reading!
PS The Ciao management has informed me that none of my
travel ops may be considered for the latest competition, because I'm not old enough :( It's very disappointing, but I'm enjoying this series so much that I might as well complete it!
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