Doing other stuff. It's nearly Christmas, wahoo!!!!
Doing other stuff. It's nearly Christmas, wahoo!!!!
Member since:16.09.2002
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In the heart of Barcelona, to the North of the Eixample district, you’ll find a most unusual sight. The pattern of five or six story buildings that dominate the skyline across much of Barcelona is suddenly and dramatically interrupted. For it is here that you will find what could possibly be one of the most interesting structures in the world, El Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Familia.
Whilst much of Barcelona’s architecture is beautiful and full of character, it largely fades into nothingness when compared to the complexity and sheer scale of La Sagrada Familia. The eight towers of this church can be seen soaring over the surrounding structures from almost any reasonably high vantage point around the city and the Temple occupies an entire block between C/Provenca and C/Mallorca at their intersections with C/Sardenya and C/Marina.
Although largely thought of as Gaudi’s baby, the temple was originally conceived by the architect Francisco del Villar in 1882 with Gaudi taking over a year later. He radically reinvented the original design so that the Temple as it stands today is very much a Gaudi creation, although maintaining the original premise of the construction of a Temple of the Holy Family.
There is a wealth of information on the history of La Sagrada Familia to be found at www.sagradafamilia.org along with an excellent virtual tour of the Temple and several pictures.
Our first view of La Sagrada Familia was from the upper deck of an orange Barcelona Tours open topped bus, classy! With lots of twisting of necks as the bus turned the corner we just stared at it for as long as our creaky joints would allow, completely taken aback by just how impressive it looks. I cannot possibly hope to get this across to you in an opinion so I won’t try too hard. It is something that will be personal to you if (and hopefully when) you see it for yourself.
Our initial view was of the Façade of the Nativity from which four of the towers emanate, with the partly constructed nave stretching away to the left. As the bus moved around we saw all four sides of the Temple, most notably the Façade of the Passion where the other four towers stand proud. A few minutes glance was more than enough to convince us that this was definitely somewhere we would have to return to explore more fully. If it left us speechless from the top of a windy bus, what would it be like to stand next to the Temple, or inside it?
We duly returned a couple of days later
and handed over our €8 admission. There are entrances both at the Façade of the Nativity and at the opposite end in front of the Façade of the Passion on C/Sardenya. The €8 fee is for a standard ticket but there are others available including a combined ticket for €9 which includes admission to Parc Guell which also contains various structures designed by Gaudi. In addition there are discounted tickets for groups and people holding one of the many discountcards available in Barcelona. Guided tours are also available for an extra €3 but we didn’t do this so I can’t tell you if it is any good. Audioguides are in Spanish, Catalan, English and French.
We entered at the Façade of the Nativity and wandered through to the central nave. It is here that you get your first real glimpse of how incomplete La Sagrada Familia still is, well over a hundred years after the first foundations were laid. There is much scaffolding and construction evident but I think it is important to stress that in some ways this adds more to the experience than it detracts. It seems to me that a lot of thought has gone into the placement of the scaffolding and the walkways around it so as to leave you plenty of opportunity to see the Temple properly. They are really taking their time and making sure that every single element is thought through and constructed as closely to Gaudi’s original concept as is humanly possible.
Progress is hindered by the lack of detailed plans. Gaudi was never one for meticulous drawings, instead preferring to mould small scale models that enabled him to see how structures would fit together more easily. Plans and models were destroyed during the Spanish Civil War and construction has continued using the remaining sketches and the knowledge of those who Gaudi had discussed the Temple with.
As we wandered through the nave the light changed depending on the stage of construction and as we rounded a corner near to the exit by the Façade of the Passion we came across what I think must be the only stained glass windows in the Temple so far. The sun shone through them leaving multicoloured patterns all over the stone floor and you get a glimpse of just how colourful the Temple will be when it is complete. Past this there is an elevator which you can take up one of the towers and the overpriced, but well stocked, gift shop.
Back within the nave there are boards giving some of the history of La Sagrada Familia and information on the roots of the architecture. There are many quotes from Gaudi and other architects who have been involved in the project. Gaudi believed that architecture should follow nature and that there is an inherent strength to any structure which imitates those that occur naturally. This belief is apparent throughout but most clearly visible in the columns in the nave that stretch up like tree trunks, branching out and meeting at the top to create a stone forest. The intricate details and lack of uniform lines make this building exceed any ordinary architectural creation. The grooving in the columns becomes more frequent towards the top and the spaces between the branches create the illusion of the forest so well you can practically see the leaves. This is what I love about this building. You’re told something about the emotions and direction of those involved in its creation and then you can see it so clearly for yourself. It’s obvious what they were driving at and you can feel the continuity and fluidity of their thoughts through your own feelings towards it.
We spent a lot of time here taking it all in and appreciating smaller details that I strongly believe you would miss on a guided tour. By all means do that but take time to wander at your own pace too.
From here we decided to return to the other lift at the Façade of the Nativity and pay the €2 fee for the privilege of being transported 55m up one of the towers. Dak suffers from vertigo but was determined to give this a go anyway and even he says it’s an experience not to be missed. There was a wait of about 15 or 20 minutes for the lift as it only carries four people at a time but it is worth every minute. If you’re not inclined to wait you can always climb the spiral staircase, you’re going to be climbing part of it when you get out of the lift anyway.
There are bridges at various different levels joining two of the towers so you can decide how far you want to go up and then cross a bridge and come down the spiral staircase in the other tower. I went up as far as I could because I love the feeling of being high up and enjoying the views that brings. I certainly wasn’t disappointed here. The views across Barcelona are fantastic and as it was a clear day we were very lucky. I’m not entirely sure we would have gone up if it had been windy. (Dak certainly wouldn’t!)
At various points you can also step out onto the tiny rounded balconies which develop smoothly out of the outside of the towers. If you can stand this feeling of being suspended nearly 100m in the air and having no solid structure around you I highly recommend it because this is where I got the best view of the amazing detail apparent on every part of the Temple. Gaudi used plants, animals,
Pictures of Sagrada Família (Barcelona)
Sagrada Familia
people and many other intricate details to decorate the Facades as well as mosaic patterns and an unusual amount of colour, considering the often sombre appearance of much religious architecture.The spiral staircase down the tower is a real experience and I’m not sure if I should be warning you about it or extolling its virtues. The first part is OK and you just kind of bounce off the walls as it’s so narrow. There are many small windows which make it alternately dark and light with every step and this can be quite disorientating so take care. The next part of the staircase is so tight it has no central wall so the only thing you’ve got to hang on to is the grab rail attached to the external wall. Please do hang on to it because it’s a long way down.
If you’re a bit of an idiot like me you’ll want to take a picture looking straight down the centre of the staircase. (I sat down to do this.) If you’re more sensible you’ll buy a postcard of this view in the gift shop.
After we got back down on solid ground we wandered around the incredible museum situated in the crypt. Here there are many of the original scale models and some carefully preserved drawings. Part of the museum is hidden in a darkened room to prevent light damaging the irreplaceable sketches Gaudi drew of his vision for the Temple. There are also details of the various architects who have contributed to the design and building of this incredible place and chunks of stone that were originally part of the building but have eroded and been removed.
My favourite part of the museum is the collection of photographs and artists impressions showing the building at its various stages of development. I was already incredibly impressed with the size and beauty of the Temple (in case you couldn’t tell) so it was a bit of a surprise to find just how much there is left to do.
Eventually there will be twelve towers like the eight that already exist, one for each of the apostles. Each one will be between 90 and 112m high. The two completed Facades will be joined by the south facing Façade of the Glory, intended to be by far the most impressive of the three. And most importantly there will be six domes, four for the Evangelists, one for the Virgin Mary and one for Jesus Christ. This last one will form the central part of the Temple and stretch an incredible 170m into the sky with a huge cross on top. In short it will dwarf the existing towers I find so fascinating.
Gaudi died in 1926 when he was hit by a tram. Having devoted the previous 40 years of his life to the Temple it is only fitting that he is buried here beneath the nave. His workshop is still part of the structure and scale models are scattered around. The museum includes a photo of the Temple taken the year he died and I found it sad that comparatively little was achieved during his lifetime. He never got to see the completion of his life work and may well be rolling in his grave at the commercial slant it is now exposed to. Gaudi was deeply religious and intent that La Sagrada Familia would be appreciated only for its importance as a religious standing. Hypocritically I am not at all religious myself but I consoled myself with the knowledge that the money from the gift shop and entrance fees will be helping to continue the careful development of Gaudi’s vision.
It is only fair that I point out that there is something about La Sagrada Familia that I deeply dislike. The Façade of the Passion has been designed by the architect Josep Maria Subirachs and like many people I believe that his work is far from the flowing arch envisaged by Gaudi. In itself the design is fairly attractive but as part of this building it is grossly out of place. The sculptures have no beauty and visually are much harder than any other part of the Temple.
La Sagrada Familia is easily accessed by bus or the excellent Barcelona metro and has its own metro stop where line 2 and line 5 meet. It is open daily between 9am and 8pm from April to September and between 9am and 6pm from October to March.
Gaudi was once quoted as saying “The patron of this project is not in a hurry.” Well it’s a good job, because who knows when it will be finished.
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Brilliant op. I could feel my vertigo coming on as I read it. A great place to visit indeed I forced myself to climb to the top and the view was well worth it even if the nausia was a bit disturbing. Cheers.
srxwilson 30.10.2003 11:09
Excellent op - I'd really love to see this building. It amazes me that a project this individual ever got off the ground, especially since it is such a long-term one. It seems almost like a fantasy building; he (or his patron) must have had remarkable vision and persistence. Cheers, Sarahx
ElizaF 29.10.2003 21:42
you really make me want to go to Barcelona, excellent comprehensive, well-written op! :) xx E.
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Apr 21st, 2003
(Aug 21st, 2003)
very helpful by (100%):
