I must confess that Bolivia was a country of which I knew nothing and to be honest I was quite happy living in ignorance. This has all changed, as during an 8-month travelling trip, I was fortunate enough to visit this beautiful country.
Originally I was due to stay for 2 weeks, but I ended up staying for more than 5, which gives you some indication of how much there is to do in this little known part of the world. One of the main reasons that I fell in love with the place was because of the crossing from Chile into Bolivia over the Salar de Uyuni. This is the name given to the largest salt flats in the world, the residue of a vast, ancient high-altitude lake, which dried out many years ago. This is no surprise as there is very little rainfall anywhere near the area. In fact, in some parts there has been absolutely no recorded rainfall!
It is a barren and arid landscape where the animals and plants have needed to evolve pretty quickly to survive. Also, it is very high indeed. During parts of the crossing you touch on 5,300 metres above sea level and altitude sickness is extremely common.
The crossing goes from San Pedro de Atacama in Northern Chile, through to Uyuni in Bolivia. You can do the crossing either way, although if you start in Chile it tends to be more expensive (approx $70 as opposed to $50). You will need to cross by 4x4, and an organised trip is the best option, as you will not want to get lost out there. The journey will take 3 days, during which you will experience some of the most stunning and unusual scenery you are ever likely to see. There are vibrant green lakes (due to the algae), which are home to hundreds of pink flamingos. Llamas and alpacas roam around and you will also come across violently spurting geyzers and get to lie in thermal pools (a good way of getting to know your fellow travellers quickly!).
When crossing the salt flat you lose all perception of where you are. Water lays on top of the salt, which creates a haze and means that you can’t see the horizon in any direction. All you can see are distant mountains that are reflected perfectly in the water and give the impression that they are floating in mid-air. In the middle of this expanse is the ‘Isla de Pescadora’ (Fisherman’s Island) that has a hotel surrounded by thousands of cacti and is a wonderful place to sit and reflect.
You must also see the hotel made entirely from bricks of salt. It is not now a functioning hotel, but is well worth a look.
It is hard to describe this experience without sounding as though recreational drugs were involved somehow. I can assure you that they were not. It is simply a unique and unforgettable place, which I implore you to go and see.
Take plenty of clothing, as it is sunny by day, but absolutely freezing at night. The plus point of the nights is that you will see more stars than you’ve ever seen before.
Altitude is a problem so take plenty of fluids (not beer!) and please don’t forget to take loads of spare film…you will need it.