San Antonio

...should, or want, to paint San Antonio in a bad picture - far from it, its my favourite North American city. Its just a week is perhaps a little too long off season. I will explain.
We decided to take our trip to the States (a week in San Antonio for sightseeing and then a few days in Florida to top up the tan) for the first week in November. The reason - the flights are miles cheaper than October. The reason for this - most America's tourism ...
...but this just wouldn’t do San Antonio justice - so lets crack on in with this review of the shining one of the Lone Star State.

Before arriving in San Antonio I could advise you on buying any number of good guidebooks but one book worth reading beforehand is ‘Texas’ by James A. Michener. Having read in this history/story book how only a couple of hundred years ago a few missionaries struggled against the land and hostile Indians to ... more

Remember the Alamo?
Your not kidding, I couldn’t forget it. I walked past it at the same time every morning and night for a week - and a couple of times more for good measure.
Not that I should, or want, to paint San Antonio in a bad picture - far from it, its my favourite North American city. Its just a week is perhaps a little too long off season. I will explain.
We decided to take our trip to the States (a week in San Antonio for sightseeing and then a few days in Florida to top up the tan) for the first week in November. The reason - the flights are miles cheaper than October. The reason for this - most America's tourism seems to shut down on the night of October the 31st.

I would love for the sake of my hands and your eyes to make this a quick review but this just wouldn’t do San Antonio justice - so lets crack on in with this review of the shining one of the Lone Star State.

Before arriving in San Antonio I could advise you on buying any number of good guidebooks but one book worth reading beforehand is ‘Texas’ by James A. Michener. Having read in this history/story book how only a couple of hundred years ago a few missionaries struggled against the land and hostile Indians to plant the foundations of the current city it was amazing to be flying into a metropolis by plane at night. That’s right,small, sleepy San Antonio is in fact within the ten largest cities in the US - ahead in size of Texas rival Dallas.
But that’s the strange thing - it really is a big town with a small town feel. The downtown not only feels safe but is thoroughly walkable and posses an excellent public transport system.

Lets then take a look at some (and I mean some) of the attractions that San Antonio has to offer -

The Alamo

Touristy and smaller than you would think, should we really remember the Alamo? You bet.
Chances are that you will accidentally stumble on the Alamo without even trying to find it. If not stop. Now I am not asking you to read history books or anything here just get yourself to see either the IMAX film “Alamo: The price of freedom” at the nearby Rivercenter Mall or The Texas Adventure, just across the road from the Alamo before viewing the actual site. If you decide to see both you can even get a combination ticket.
Now you have done that you can visit the Alamo with at least a bit of an understanding of what went on here. You will still be amazed to find just how downtown it is.
Anyway its all well kept and respectful apart from the pretty tack tourist shop also on site - maybe it pays for its upkeep.
From a UK point of view for a second you may find one thing of particular interest. When looking at the flags of the origins of the people who fell defending the Alamo you will see the usual suspects in many of the US state flags. However you will also notice the English, Scottish, Welsh and Irish flags there. Over 20 of the defenders where from the British Isles.
You will enjoy your Alamo visit much more if you visit late in the afternoon when there are loads less people there.

One quick tip here in case you don’t find it. I noticed quite a few people trying to find the river walk from the Alamo, many heading to the Rivercenter Mall to finally get on it. In fact across the road are some steps which lead down to a small water fall and little stream. Follow this through a hotel lobby and you are onto the river walk.

WEB INFO: http://www.thealamo.org/

The River Walk

Every town should have thought of this. Take one fairly mucky and grubby stream and turn it into a lovely area surrounded by trees, subtropical plants and flowers.
Add restaurants, bars and plenty of atmosphere and you have a first class tourist destination.
Ideally take one the Yanaguana barge trips from the River Center Mall for an introduction and then make sure you walk the short east end part of the walk (the bit you do on the cruise) on a day and a night.
If you like a walk also check out the northern and particularly the southern parts of the river walk. On the latter you will find the delightful King William District of housing.
And finally by all accounts the River Walk is even more special during the Christmas season when its lit up with thousands of extra lights.

Market Square area

Supposedly the authentic side of San Antonio, but then full of tourists. Apart from a couple of good restaurants the main reason for coming down here is to shop around the numerous indoor shops selling Mexican souvenirs. Don't be surprised however to find many of them selling the same stuff. Still, good fun for an afternoon shop followed by a strong margarita! (See also Food and Drink).

Tower of the Americas

Built in 1968 the Tower of the Americas is pretty hard to miss on the San Antonio skyline, not really surprising as it’s one of the biggest in America. Situated in the Hemisfair park area it’s an easy walk from downtown or one of the tourist shuttles. After your ear popping ride to the top there is both an indoor and outdoor viewing area as well as a restaurant. The indoor viewing area has panels showing different locations to look out for. Try and experience the view from up here in a day and on a night.
The area at the base of the tower with fountains and landscaping is a nice place just for a sit and do nothing ten minutes.

WEB INFO: http://toweroftheamericas.com/

The Alamodome

An easy walk from downtown will take you to the current (but not for long) home of the San Antonio Spurs basketball team.
I can thoroughly recommend a night watching this rather alien game if not just for a couple of beers and a hot dog while watching it. You can check on games and arrange for tickets to be picked up via Ticketmaster.
What most cities would do for a stadium like this, which will presumably sit pretty dormant come next year.
Before visiting San Antonio it’s also worth checking to see if an major pop concerts will be held there.

WEB INFO: http://www.ticketmaster.com

The Missions

The greatest concentration of Spanish Missions can be found in San Antonio. If you think the Alamo was it then you might be surprised to find out how large some of the other missions are. The others are Missions Concepcion, San Jose, San Juan and Espada. To get to the missions you are best using of the tourist shuttles running from downtown.
At this point I should maybe point out something called the 'Mission Trail' in San Antonio. I can’t help thinking the city of San Antonio has missed out a little bit with this one. The Mission Trail goes from the Alamo to the furthest mission, Mission Espada. Being a fairly keen walker I had hoped to walk this route if possible (its over 10 miles I believe) but I could find no real information on the trail. Apparently you can also do it by bike.

WEB INFO: http://hotx.com/missions/

Sea World

You have no doubt heard of this aquatic theme park chain from visiting or hearing of its more well known sister park in Orlando. However perhaps somewhat surprisingly (maybe not in Texas) this is supposedly the biggest of the four Sea World complexes in the States.

Its perhaps beyond the scope of this review to go into all the attractions at the park but there is a good mix of rides, shows and exibits to keep the whole family happy (and if dad isn’t driving I will quickly mention that being owned by Anhauser Busch will help in sampling the Budweiser beer at the hospitality centre).

So quickly the rides are as follows - Steel Eel, The Great White (will keep most coaster fans pretty happy) and two water rides, Texas Splashdown and Rio Loco - both pretty good but not at the pinnacle of there particular ‘THEME’.

Exhibitions include the Dolphin Pool where you can feed them, The Coral Reef (one BIG aquarium - oh yeh and with Sharks) and the Penguin Encounter (not forgetting the Puffins also).

Finally the shows are one the big pulls of Sea World and you won’t be disappointed. The shows include Viva and of course Shamu Visions - make sure you get the show times brochure when entering the park.

I should also mention that Sea World also has its own waterpark included in the park and on the same ticket, it was shut when I was there due to it being out of season - 75 degree too cold for the Texans!).

Sea World certainly isn’t downtown. It’s around a half an hour drive or so north west of the city literally in the middle of nowhere. If you don’t fancy driving pay the $1.60 each way and use the VIA transport from downtown. When I was there I used the rather slow route 64 bus. I have a feeling however it may be worth looking for a 63 route in season which could use a more direct route.

Apart from that your only worry is trying to explain how Shamu the whale is at all the parks in America on the same day!

WEB INFO: http://www.seaworld.com/seaworld/tx/index.html

Six Flags Fiesta Texas

Would love to tell you more about this place but it was shut due to the end of season. Now run by Six Flags it has numerous coaster rides, shows and a waterpark. Generally opens from March through October (not in November!).

WEB INFO: http://www.sixflags.com/parks/fiestatexas/

Out of town

When you have had a few days in San Antonio you will want to get out and have a look elsewhere however nice this town is. If you have no car you will need to rely on one of the local charter companies like Grayline. Off season however forget it – they will never get enough people up to make the trip worthfile, I can vouch for that.
Popular excursions include the Hill Country, Austin and even Mexico.
If you want to do it yourself the local Greyhound Station is pretty much downtown. From there you can book a coach to Austin (around an hour) or Corpus Christi (couple of hours) pretty cheap.

Food n Drink

San Antonio is a great eating and drinking spot. You won’t be surprised to hear that San Antonio excels in Mexican, Tex-Mex and BBQ but there is everything else too from the humble hamburger to fine French cuisine.
I am sure the locals and guidebooks will tell you to eat away from the tourist hot spots of the River Walk and to a lesser extent the Market Square but I shall concentrate on these areas – after all most of us are tourists.
I should say that I found the food on the River Walk surprisingly good for an area that in truth could pretty much serve any old rubbish and still get away with it. The same goes for service.

Of course you probably either cant afford to eat at a restaurant each day or simply don't want to. There are fast food options too - downtown you will find a McDonalds and Taco Bell.

I shall not bother trying to review every restaurant in San Antonio just a few we tried -

County Line - A Texas chain. If you can BBQ something it will be here. I can recommend the mixed platter if you want to try a bit of everything.

Joe's Crab Shack - a countrywide seafood chain with pretty good food which to be fair I ordered incorrectly. Not quite as good as the Red Lobster chain in my opinion but maybe a bit more fun.

Hard Rock Cafe - the worldwide chain with the usual range of above average burgers where you pay a bit of a premium for the name and memorabilia.

Rio Rio Cantina - miss the starters if you dare as you can stuff your face with the complimentary taco chips and sauce but don’t miss the mains whatever you do! Tex Mex menu with some of the best ribs I have ever had.

Mi Tierra - a bit of an institution in the Market Place which offers home style Mexican cooking 24 hours a day. I found the service a little surly but the locals seem to swear by it - can’t be bad.

Margaritas - a great spot for a quick bite and drink in the Market Square. Put me down for a half a dozen ice cold gulf shrimp and a Margarita.

Finally if you are after breakfast there is a Denny’s pretty much downtown.

Drinking

The local beers are Lone Star, Pearl and Shiner, my favorite. I would go for the Bock - our waiter on the first night said he wouldn't wish Pearl on his worst enemy.
Most of the restaurants have bars mostly used by patrons waiting for tables - the Hard Rock cafe being a notable exception.

However if I had to recommend a couple of drinking spots downtown they would be the bar at the Menger Hotel and that the bar at the Buckhorn Saloon & Museum. Neither cheap however.

Wrapping up for now…(I can always add some more later)

I hope this information can wet the appetite of any prospective visitor to San Antonio. If you have read all of this you deserve a medal, however I feel this city deserves nothing less than a full review. At the moment San Antonio isn’t really on the UK tourist map like say Orlando is. In higher season however I cant see any reason for not justifying spending a full week in this fine city. OK its not got Disney like Orlando but it has other great theme parks and the Florida destination would die for this cities history and culture. Give it a go.

Oh and go in season...

 

...less