I am Marmite - love me or loath me...then ask me if I care.
I am Marmite - love me or loath me...then ask me if I care.
Member since:04.05.2001
Reviews:110
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What can I tell you about San Francisco? Well...I could tell you I left my heart there, but that would be a stone lie, and you’d only give me a hard time. Plus, Tony Bennett might sue.
So – instead of that, let me give you a brisk trot round this scenic and very human city.
It’s not a huge place, San Francisco: About 800,000 people in an area roughly the same as Edinburgh. The whole place sits on a peninsula between the Pacific and San Francisco Bay and is neatly broken down into clearly defined neighbourhoods, each having its own character and history.
I was staying in a pleasant ‘boutique’ hotel near the corner of 4th Street and Market Street (Market is the central spine of the city and runs from a westernmost point between Eureka Valley and Castro all the way – straight as an arrow or a very straight street – all the way to the ferry terminal on the Bay, just by the Bay Bridge.
The hotel; the Palomar, was great, if a little kitsch (leopard print carpets? I ask you!). It’s also VERY convenient for the massive Moscone Convention Centre, the splendid San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMO if I have to mention it again) and many of the great facilities this city has to offer the resident or the visitor alike.
Sadly, it’s also convenient for the stretch of town where many of the disadvantaged, the homeless, the poor, disabled and downright bonkers
tend to hang out, so every stroll beyond the portals of the hotel requires a pocketful of change...that or a brass neck.
Anyway, let’s start our stroll (wear comfy shoes...there’s hills out there...didn’t you watch any of the movies?) by going north across Market, past the guy in the leather cape, crash helmet and headphones clattering his little cymbals and chanting Hari Krishna, and up Grant Street. We’re heading for Chinatown which is well worth seeing. A short uphill walk takes us under the gates into Chinatown, and all of a sudden every shop, lamppost, doorway, in short everything, is Chinese.
While we continue along Grant, we pass the lower reaches of street like California, which climb to the left in spectacular rises. It seems impossible that cars actually drive up – and down – these precipitous hills, but they do. Just stand in the middle of California for a few seconds and you’ll very soon find out that cars do indeed belt up and down here pretty damn fast and frequently!
Continue north through Chinatown and we’ll soon be in North Beach, which is traditionally the Italian district (As a sidebar, it seems strange to me that a city which has such a mix of race creed and colour should perpetuate the ghetto – but they do, though it never seems derogatory or demeaning to the inhabitants of Japantown, Russian Hill, Chinatown etc. It’s just the way it is.) So anyway, here we are in North Beach, and if you fancy eating Italian, there’s no shortage of choice! Every second doorway leads to great Italian food; pasta pizza, northern Italian restaurants, Southern, Sicilian, you name it.
Still heading directly north, and we arrive at Fisherman’s Wharf. This is tourist city – Blackpool West – the streets are thronged with visitors. Street entertainers, mostly of a really high quality it has to be said, are at work in droves. Dozens, if not hundreds of tee-shirt stores and tat souvenir stands abound, as do rip-off restaurants and diners. Even so, this place does have a charm...at least when the sun is shining.
Now...if we carry on north, we’re going to get pretty damn wet, what with there being a sea there and everything, so let’s head west.
See all this grass and these trees? This is The Presidio, and it used to house the military. It’s now in the hands of the Parks Commission, and they’re going to have to make it self supporting soon, or so I’m told. I don’t know what that might mean in the grand scheme of things, but for now, we just need to get through here to get to the city’s best known landmark; The Golden Gate Bridge.
OK, there it is. Same colour as the Forth Rail Bridge. International Orange it’s called, even though it looks like primer. So...got your piccie? Let’s be off, but this time let’s go south on Park Presidio, which will take us to a much more jolly park altogether: Golden Gate Park.
A huge rectangle of greenery, Golden Gate Park houses every possible kind of sports and recreation facility, as well as miles of paths, trails and cycle tracks. There’s an open-air concert most lunchtimes in the summer, with some decent bands playing to a laid-back audience. Among the other facilities there’s something like 10 lakes and a fly-casting pool, a golf course, all the usual sports fields and a Japanese tea garden. It’s beautifully maintained and a real gem of a park.
If we head straight east from the centre of the park we are right into a district called Haight, which was the focal point of the 1967 ‘Summer of Love’. Many people from all over the states, and indeed all over the world, descended on Haight and lounged around getting stoned, getting laid and getting cold when the fog came in. Quite a few stayed on...or possibly just couldn’t find their way out...maaaaan.
South of here is Eureka Valley, where rainbow banners fly from every lamp-post and the gay community holds sway.
East of Eureka is Mission, which houses some great restaurants, some nice lofts, and a hell of a lot of businesses. We’ll amble through here, but if we sort of strike out north east a little we’ll make it to SOMA which is short for South of Market (i.e. south of Market Street...remember Market Street? Come on, pay attention!)
OK. SOMA, Loads of things to see and do here. Take in the Cartoon museum, which has a great bookstore devoted to photography and cartoons, the Sony Metreon, which houses a mega-multiplex, several shops and restaurants, and the wonderful Sony Style shop where you can see and buy Sony’s latest gear. Many restaurants....many! Try Mel’s Diner for a great (albeit reproduction) American breakfast experience. The décor is straight out of American Graffiti, and the food is awesome! Chevy’s Tex Mex is good. Roy’s is flash and pricey, but worth a visit. On Brannan there’s a fine eatery called Slanting Door which I heartily recommend, or why not go a little further until Brannan meets the Embarcadero, hang a left and just by the Bay Bridge (Yes...we’re back there) there’s a great restaurant and microbrewery called Gordon Biersch. Fine beers!
OK...we’re almost done. Let’s continue along Embarcadero, with the water to our right and what was a warehouse and distribution district to our left but is now a mix of small industry and residential called South Beach...but there IS no beach!
Also on our right (well...we passed it but I forgot to say) is the PacBell Stadium, home of the San Francisco Giants baseball team. It’s a fairly new stadium, and if there’s game while you’re in town, make a point of going.
Now...across to your right is the Ferry Building, from which you can catch ferries to some of the islands. Come back during the day and there’s a nice little food market outside, and if you stand here at dusk, you can watch flocks of parrots squawking and flapping from treetop to treetop as they get set to roost for the night.
We can go left here, on Market, and stroll through the almost deserted financial district, and before too long we’re back at the Palomar, emptying our pockets of loose change into the paper cups of some of the city’s less well-off as we go.
Tomorrow, I promise we’ll go on a cable car and a historic tram, and we’ll go to Union Square, where you can spend money like it’s water in all those posh stores like Neiman Marcus and Saks 5th Avenue.
Now, as the night is still young, I feel a beer coming on, so I’m heading for the murky delights of the Blue Lamp Bar, where J.L. Stiles will be playing live.
As a footnote, smoking is forbidden in all restaurants and bars throughout California, so you can wile away a night in a dingy bar playing pool and drinking great draft ales (of which San Francisco has many) without having to burn your clothes and scrub yourself down afterwards. What a hoot!
As another footnote, I’m well aware that I haven’t mentioned something like two-thirds of the city. We’ve not visited Pacific Heights for instance, to look at the house used for Mrs Doubtfire. Nor have we sprinted quickly through Tenderloin in camouflage gear hoping to get out alive. Van Nuys has been unexplored. The architectural history of the city has gone unexplained and we haven’t ogled the lovely civic centre or Opera House...hell....there are hundreds of bars we haven’t tried yet! However, this is just supposed to give folk an idea about the place. They can explore properly when they get into town. One last thing though....hang onto your heart – this place has a reputation!
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Hia! Brilliant review, I also absolutely loved San Francisco (please see my review), It's a breathtaking city, and I now want to live there!
Claire
purdy 15.07.2004 14:21
We are hopefully visiting in Sept for about 10 days - l want to get out to Napa to gaze on the wineries too! Your op has thoroughly imbeded my view that l gotta go - l really gotta go! Heather
tommy_magpie 30.01.2004 21:23
Great op. Made me all nostalgic. I've been there twice now, and still can't get enough of the place. It's truly magical.
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Advantages: USA's most culturally diverse area, excellent nature Disadvantages: none
From_The_Continent 23.02.2001 (24.02.2001)
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Review of San Francisco (California)
Advantages: A very tourist-friendly metropolitan area Disadvantages: None, except that you really have to stay longer
digitalenvironmentalist 01.04.2007 (01.04.2007)
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Ciao members have rated this review on average: very helpful
Review of San Francisco (California)