Santa Fe

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Modern Santa Fe in Context - An Editorial
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Santa Fe is a small urban gem. Nestled in the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and surrounded by the haunting beauty of the high desert, it truly is a lovely small city--a city well worth visiting. In addition to being the state capital of New Mexico, Santa Fe offers visitors marvelous museums, excellent ...
...My problem is that the Santa Fe of today, for all its very pleasing beauty, is a mere reflection of its past. Despite its wonderful museums, its harmonious Spanish-style architecture, and the Indians who still sell their wares in front of the Palace of the Governors on the Plaza, few New Mexicans now live in Santa Fe. It has become a barrio of privilege, reserved primarily for wealthy admirers of what Santa Fe once was--mostly "immigrants" ... more

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Modern Santa Fe in Context - An Editorial
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Santa Fe is a small urban gem. Nestled in the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and surrounded by the haunting beauty of the high desert, it truly is a lovely small city--a city well worth visiting. In addition to being the state capital of New Mexico, Santa Fe offers visitors marvelous museums, excellent restaurants, and the vitality of a vibrant artists' community. Its historic 17th-century Plaza still serves its original purpose well, providing an attractive and effective focus for much of the city's political, cultural, commercial, and religious activity.

So, why can't I embrace this lovely city? What's not to like? What's my problem? My problem is that the Santa Fe of today, for all its very pleasing beauty, is a mere reflection of its past. Despite its wonderful museums, its harmonious Spanish-style architecture, and the Indians who still sell their wares in front of the Palace of the Governors on the Plaza, few New Mexicans now live in Santa Fe. It has become a barrio of privilege, reserved primarily for wealthy admirers of what Santa Fe once was--mostly "immigrants" from somewhere else.

Please don't misunderstand: I don't mind immigrants or money. As a gringa myself (that is, an Anglo woman of primarily western European extraction), I understand and accept--even rejoice in--the cultural diversity that pervades the Southwest. In my opinion, new blood in any community is pretty much a good thing. What has happened in Santa Fe, however, is that the new arrivals have effectively overrun, displaced, and replaced the residents of what was already a splendid old community. Unable to afford the higher rents and property taxes or unable to resist the windfalls brought by selling their native-style adobe homes, older residents yielded to new at an astonishing rate. In a Southwestern version of gentrification, established working-class Hispanic and Anglo neighborhoods have been given over almost completely to upper middle class newcomers--and new estates for the wealthy now dot the city's northern outskirts. Almost simultaneously, the eclectic, imminently practical collections of Indian crafts, miscellaneous rugs and blankets, and odds-and-ends furnishings with Spanish or Indian motifs have given way to the practiced and artificial requirements of "Santa Fe style."

What is left is the ghost of the Santa Fe that once was--a reflection of the old Southwest preserved by newcomers who appreciate but often do not truly understand the old blending of cultures that once characterized the city. In far too many ways, Santa Fe has thus become a ghost town, albeit one that preserves and presumes to improve upon the props of everyday life from the past. Santa Fe has become a living museum--beautiful, but with a kind of sterility that troubles many who have known her for a long time.

In my heart of hearts, I long for the Santa Fe I knew as a child--the one I visited with my parents or my schoolmates during family outings or the mandatory field trips to my state's legislative center. I recall one magic evening with my father, who had taken me along to enjoy the behind-the-scenes excitement of a theater where he provided the stage lighting. I remember fondly the tiny, narrow streets near the Plaza and the $2.99 T-bone steak dinners (with fresh salsa and roasted green chili on the side) we enjoyed at a downtown cafe.

Those were the days before Santa Fe had truly caught on as a magnet for the rich and famous. There were artists and actors, yes, but they were often as poor as most of their neighbors. Most of the restaurants were still known as cafes or cantinas, and Santa Fe still maintained a full range of economic and cultural diversity. The cultural richness of Santa Fe's past had yet to be co-opted by the merely rich, who indulge in seeking satisfaction among a unique community's cultural props. Nowadays, of course, most of the city's lower paid workers, the real New Mexicans who lend their charm and culture to the city, are--like the Indians on the Plaza--merely day laborers who commute from as far away as Albuquerque or Espanola. Such a change is a loss for all concerned, but it is a particularly sad loss for the beautiful and historic city of Santa Fe.

Having vented my frustration, here’s a guide for exploring Santa Fe. It’s worth the effort it takes to get there, to visit its attractions, and to enjoy its spectacular natural surroundings. But to appreciate Santa Fe more fully, you might take the time to understand where it came from--and perhaps lend words of encouragement to those of us making meager efforts to return the city a bit more to itself.

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Key Attractions
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First-timers in Santa Fe would do well to start with a visit to the city's historic Plaza. Be sure to wander the warren of narrow streets and alleyways adjacent to the Plaza and tour the Palace of the Governors, which is now New Mexico's state history museum. Despite modern tampering, the "neighborhood" to the west of the Plaza still evokes the sense of what it must have been like when Santa Fe was little more than an armed Spanish settlement. Dating from 1610, the Palace is a simple but elegant adobe structure originally built to serve as Spain’s seat of government in what was then an isolated North American territory. By long tradition, the palace portal provides shelter to Native American artisans offering their wares. Each vendor space is simple, usually consisting of a blanket or cloth spread on the ground. The vendors themselves have established a peer review process that maintains standards and ensures authenticity and quality.

Just a bit southeast of the Plaza, the late-19th-century Cathedral of St. Francis is also a worthwhile destination. The cathedral was built on the site of older churches and is the result of Father Jean Baptiste Lamy's determined persistence. (Anyone who has read Willa Cather's classic novel, Death Comes for the Archbishop, will have "met" Father Lamy.) In part because the twin spires speced out in the original design were never built, the structure gives the impression of being an unusual hybrid of Spanish mission and French Gothic/Romanesque architecture.

The graceful Loretto Chapel with its “miraculous” spiral staircase can also be found within the historic district. Built sometime between 1877 and 1881, the staircase is attributed by local tradition to St. Joseph the Carpenter--yes, THAT St. Joseph the Carpenter. The chapel was once part of the Academy of Our Lady of Light (or Loretto), a school for girls that finally closed its doors in the 1960s. No longer consecrated as a Catholic house of worship, the Loretto Chapel is now operated as a private museum and is let for weddings.

The New Mexico State Capitol, too, is within easy walking distance of the Plaza. Unlike most state capitols in the United States, New Mexico set aside the grander aspects of Greek Revival architecture in favor of a design more amenable to the Southwest. Thus, the capitol building--known as the Roundhouse--integrates elements of territorial style and Pueblo motifs into a kiva-like structure that, like the traditional kivas of the Pueblo tribes, is built partially below ground level. Aside from the insights one might glean into the issues and controversies that concern contemporary New Mexicans, a visit to the capitol offers an opportunity to view what is arguably the state’s best collection of local arts and crafts--works produced over several generations and across the state’s diverse cultural traditions.

For such a small city, Santa Fe is blessed with an outstanding collection of museums, most of which are conveniently located in the historic district. These include, but are by no means limited to, the following:

~ Museum of Fine Arts, showcasing the work of outstanding Southwestern artists, past and present
~ Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, honoring one of New Mexico’s best known 20th-century artists
~ Museum of Spanish Colonial Art
~ Museum of the Indian Arts and Culture, devoted primarily to the traditions of local tribal communities
~ Institute of American Indian Arts, featuring the work of contemporary Native American artists
~ Santa Fe Children’s Museum
~ Institute of International Folk Art, which houses a collection of miniature tableaus representing more 100 different countries

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Shopping
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Options for shopping in Santa Fe cover a very broad gamut indeed: One possibility is to browse the pricey galleries and boutiques near the Plaza for costly jewelry, outstanding examples of Native American craftsmanship, designer fiesta garments, and near-priceless works of fine art. You’ll need a plump wallet and large line of credit to become a regular at these establishments.

Yet another option is wander along Canyon Road, famous for its “residential arts and crafts," and inspect the holdings of literally dozens of small galleries (interspersed with an occasional small eatery or antique shop). These shops, often consisting of from one to several rooms in a private residence, feature an almost endless variety of arts and crafts--much of which is produced by currently active members of Santa Fe’s renowned artist colony. The artist-in-residence character of Canyon Road is carefully protected by local zoning ordinances.

Those who favor less exotic shopping experiences can visit modern malls located along Cerrillos Road. There one can find a wide selection of shops representing the retail chains that are such a standard part of American life.

Or, for those with a little money and a sense of adventure, show up at the so-called “flea market” located north of the city just off U.S. 84. Based on land belonging to Tesuque Pueblo, this shopper’s paradise operates only on the weekends and is more like a Middle Eastern bazaar than a flea market. And like the bazaars, haggling over price is expected. It has been my personal pleasure to come away from shopping excursions at the Santa Fe Flea Market bearing such prizes as traditional Native American jewelry, African baskets, Mexican blankets, handmade toys from Ecuador, handcrafted silver earrings from Canyon Road, pine nuts harvested by local farmers, and a rather shabby lamp being sold out of someone’s car boot. I admit to being a bit impulsive with that last purchase, but the rest were bargains every bit as good as I hoped they’d be. Still, for perspective visitors to this mecca of consumerism, the traditional warning of “caveat emptor” is well remembered.

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Lodging and Restaurants
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Lodging in Santa Fe varies from modestly priced basic motel rooms, to comfortable suite hotels, to luxurious accommodations in the city’s historic La Fonda Hotel, to bed-and-breakfast establishments. Pick a price range, and you’ll likely find something to suit your budget.

Restaurants cater to a full range of tastes, from fast food to haute cuisine, though I highly recommend that you take the time to sample native New Mexican fare. It’s delicious and heartwarming--literally. A few of my favorite places to stave off the specter of hunger include Pasqual’s (expensive, but provides a nice bridge between European and New Mexican cuisine), Maria’s and Tomisita’s (both offer modestly priced authentic New Mexican dishes), and La Plazuela (offers affordably priced “nuevo Latino” cuisine in the posh enclosed courtyard of the La Fonda Hotel). And don’t hesitate to sample local wines with your meals. New Mexican potables these days have far more going for them than tequila y cerveza.

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Nightlife
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Aside from viewing the Milky Way from a high desert plateau, the ultimate nighttime experience while visiting Santa Fe is to spend an evening at the Santa Fe Opera. Hold on to your seats if you’re lucky enough to get them because the Santa Fe Opera provides a worldclass venue for internationally acclaimed talent. The new theater and stage complex for the opera commands what is very nearly a 360-degree panoramic view of the surrounding Jemez and Sangre de Cristo mountains. The new theater was completed in 1997 and has a seating capacity of just over 2,100.

Despite its relatively small size, Santa Fe's status as an artists’ mecca ensures that visitors can expect opportunities to attend plays, concerts, and dance programs. The Santa Fe Playhouse, for example, has its own company and offers a program of five productions that extend over the entire year. Shakespeare in Santa Fe has a season that extends from mid May until late August, and an annual chamber music festival attracts some of the world’s most talented musicians.

In addition, Santa Fe is home a number of bars, pubs, taverns, and nightclubs. Live music, ranging from country to rock to mariachi, is regularly featured. And for those looking to try their luck at gaming, Indian-owned casinos located on nearby Pueblo lands are ready and waiting. Visitors seeking the nightlife will likely find their heart’s desire.

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Other Attractions
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Santa Fe’s geographic location and demographic characteristics make it an appealing base for a number of outdoor activities. The surrounding desert and mountain landscapes provide almost endless opportunities for wilderness hiking and primitive camping--though those venturing onto reservation lands should take to care to ask permission of tribal authorities. The Santa Fe Basin attracts tens of thousands of skiing and snowboarding enthusiasts each winter. Golfers also regard Santa Fe as a haven. The city boasts several outstanding courses, including Las Campanas, a recently completed Jack Nicklaus course.

For more information on visiting Santa Fe, check out the following web sites:

www.santafe.org/
sfweb.ci.santa-fe.nm.us
www.santafeinformation.com/

© DAnneC/BawBaw, updated 2003

 

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